Getting Rid of Markings.....

[Don Gilham]

As most of you probably know by now I'm new to this scale, so here's a newbie-type question

In my past I have had no trouble in eliminating markings from proprietory stock before repainting. I usually used a fibre pen, but tried it on this scale and the results weren't as good. So has anyone got any tips on marking removal in G, please ?

 

[Gizzy]

Very fine wet and dry.

Although I've only ever done this on NQD or very tatty 2nd hand LGB stock...

 

[beavercreek]

Hi Don
by markings are you meaning the printed details on boxcars etc etc.
If so, try a little 'Microset' and a pencil eraser (rubber).
Put some Microset (it is used when you add your own decals to soften them) on the area you want to remove and after a period (as the different makes of rolling stock have slightly different finishes, this time period will have to be found out by experimentation) start gently rubbing with the eraser. Don't do it too hard or you might affect the surface colour underneath. Eventually you will find the way to quickly remove markings.

 

[tramcar trev]

I found that grease and silicone solvent applied with a cotton bud worked well on AMS models....

 

[Don Gilham]

Thanks Guys

 

[CastleBarrie]

Carefully applied nail-varnish remover has worked for me on some USA Trains stock that I wanted to re-paint.

 

[Bram]

The fibre pen does work but you need patience and not too heavy a touch

 

[3Valve]

T-Cut and elbow grease works for me.

 

[Woderwick]

Meths and a cotton bud.

 

[Don Gilham]

Meths ?? ooooeerrrrrrrrrrrrrrr better not get back in to old habits

(Thanks Rod)

 

[Woderwick]

Takes ages, but very benign to the paint underneath. Depends how patient you are. Mind you, if someone has personal experience of getting KATO paint off their stuff I would like to know.

I stress personal experience, not something that someone wrote somewhere else. Kato paint is like powder coating, it wont budge.

 

[jameshilton]

I've had success with the ultra fine wet and dry paper used wet on LGB printed details - so much so that all I had to do afterwards was buff up the area with a dry cotton bud and then apply my replacement transfers over the top, and seal with satin varnish. The issue with removing raised (i.e. painted printed) lettering is the damage done by any abrasive mechanism on the surrounding paint.

 

[royale]

Car brake fluid worked on a Bachmann tender, but not on an LGB loco and nor would nail varnish remover - had to use 1000 wet and dry on that (gently and with patience).