First timer question, lubrication
nadnerbster
Oct 15 2009, 02:06 PM Post #1
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From: 60km west of Sydney, Australia
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Hi to all,
I recently aquired an Accucraft Mogul (see the 6th page of the steam plume contest thread). I've steamed it 5 times now (only on blocks or on my 9 feet of test track thus far unfortunately). I'm exceptionally happy with it - my only previous experience with live steam was running Mike's Janhu (see the second page of the steam plume contest thread) and I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to get the things going, and at how well the locomotive has performed - 7 minutes warm-up and 30+ minutes steaming out of the box.
That said, from the start, I've had very slight "binding", particularly at slow speeds, once per revolution. This seems to have increased slightly over time. I strongly suspect that I need to lubricate the valve gear and such.
Could someone please tell me what oil I should use for this - I've seen reference to "3 in 1" but I've not yet found this product for sale here (Sydney area, Australia). Also, I'm wondering what I should apply the oil to, and how it should be applied.
Also a quick query - what's the best way to clean a locomotive after a run? I've got a fair bit of oily residue, particularly on the underside.
Finally - a fair bit of water (and a little steam-oil) comes out of the cylinders when I first open the regulator after building pressure . . . I'm assuming this is normal, as I don't have cylinder drain cocks?
Many thanks!
hobbyfossi201
Oct 15 2009, 02:43 PM Post #2
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Hi,
for lubricating all the parts in motion I use specific oil purchased from Regner, a German manufactory of live steam equipment.
But I´ve heard that it is possible to use plain automotive motor oil for lubricating these parts. Maybe other forum members could give here separte advice.
in regard to the cleaning: I use a soft cloth/fabrik to wipe off the bodyshell and underside - if it´s too much. But that primarilly depends on your personell preference.
And yes, your last statement refers to the so called "Priming", which means the steam gets into the cold cylinders and condensates therefore. That´s quite normal and after a few revolutions back and forth the cylinders are hot and the steam is passed through.
hope my explenations help.
kind regards
hobbyfossi201
QUOTE(nadnerbster @ Oct 15 2009, 02:06 PM)
Hi to all,
I recently aquired an Accucraft Mogul (see the 6th page of the steam plume contest thread). I've steamed it 5 times now (only on blocks or on my 9 feet of test track thus far unfortunately). I'm exceptionally happy with it - my only previous experience with live steam was running Mike's Janhu (see the second page of the steam plume contest thread) and I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to get the things going, and at how well the locomotive has performed - 7 minutes warm-up and 30+ minutes steaming out of the box.
That said, from the start, I've had very slight "binding", particularly at slow speeds, once per revolution. This seems to have increased slightly over time. I strongly suspect that I need to lubricate the valve gear and such.
Could someone please tell me what oil I should use for this - I've seen reference to "3 in 1" but I've not yet found this product for sale here (Sydney area, Australia). Also, I'm wondering what I should apply the oil to, and how it should be applied.
Also a quick query - what's the best way to clean a locomotive after a run? I've got a fair bit of oily residue, particularly on the underside.
Finally - a fair bit of water (and a little steam-oil) comes out of the cylinders when I first open the regulator after building pressure . . . I'm assuming this is normal, as I don't have cylinder drain cocks?
Many thanks!
ferrysteam
Oct 15 2009, 03:19 PM Post #3
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Joined: 3-September 08
From: Ferryhill, Co Durham
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I find the best oil for bearings and the motion is gun oil.It's not as acid as 3in1 and a more pure oil.Only use steam oil for the cylinders.
--------------------
Allan from Co Durham.Land of the Prince Bishops.
If crime doesn't pay,why are politicians and bankers so wealthy?
ferrysteam
Oct 15 2009, 03:22 PM Post #4
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From: Ferryhill, Co Durham
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To clean under the engine after a run use WD40.
--------------------
Allan from Co Durham.Land of the Prince Bishops.
If crime doesn't pay,why are politicians and bankers so wealthy?
nadnerbster
Oct 15 2009, 03:36 PM Post #5
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From: 60km west of Sydney, Australia
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Thanks for the replies. I'll have to have a look for some gun oil. And thanks for explaining Priming, hobbyfossi201 - I'd thought that was only the result of overfilling the boiler.
So I just apply the oil to the various bearings and such?
Out of curiosity, with live steam - is a certain amount of stalling "normal", even for well lubricated machines? From what I've seen, slow speed control isn't exactly easy.
QUOTE(ferrysteam @ Oct 15 2009, 03:22 PM)
To clean under the engine after a run use WD40.
WD40 as a cleaning agent? Do you spray it on and wipe it off or something?
This post has been edited by nadnerbster: Oct 15 2009, 03:37 PM
rhinochugger
Oct 15 2009, 03:41 PM Post #6
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QUOTE(nadnerbster @ Oct 15 2009, 03:06 PM)
Finally - a fair bit of water (and a little steam-oil) comes out of the cylinders when I first open the regulator after building pressure . . . I'm assuming this is normal, as I don't have cylinder drain cocks?
Some of the purists, who like to have things like drain cocks on their locos, criticise the Accy Mogul because of the lack of 'em.
The answer is that the initial condensate is going to spit out for the first few seconds, and then, when the cylinder walls an' all of the stuff inside has warmed up a bit, their won't be so much
My Accy Shay does the same. I did read one review by a 'knowledgable' preson that, dependant on the type of valve mechanism, you can shunt the lever between forwards & reverse to blow out the condensate. This applies to the Shay, but you need to know what sort of valve gear you've got before you try it on anything else.
Becaue of the nature of the Shay mechanicals, I don't sit around too much to wait for it to build up steam pressure, I just stick the lever in forwards (or rerverse as appropriate) and when it's ready, it moves off
--------------------
Ian, Fat Controller of the Wild West Sussex Railroad
rhinochugger
Oct 15 2009, 03:46 PM Post #7
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QUOTE(nadnerbster @ Oct 15 2009, 04:36 PM)
So I just apply the oil to the various bearings and such?
General rule with a steam engine; if it moves, oil it
An' don't forget the steam oil in the little screw-top wotsit inside the cab - you've probably worked that bit out for yoruself. For the Shay, a filling of steam oil seems to last about two gas tanks of running. Then I undo the drain cock to let the condensate run out, and as it starts to thicken up and become oily, tighten up the drain cock again
Seems to work for me OK
--------------------
Ian, Fat Controller of the Wild West Sussex Railroad
rhinochugger
Oct 15 2009, 03:50 PM Post #8
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Ah - oil
Some of the traders over here (the mother country) sell Hobbylube and you can get a whole pack of about 6 different oils and greases. I think it's an American product.
The thick one is good for some of the motion and bearings, while the black grease (like Molyslip) is good for external gears and stuff. The little tubes come with some fine tubing so that you can stick the oil in the right place - when you've got your glasses on
there's also white grease, dry graphite an' all sorts in the pack
--------------------
Ian, Fat Controller of the Wild West Sussex Railroad
nadnerbster
Oct 15 2009, 04:26 PM Post #9
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QUOTE(rhinochugger @ Oct 15 2009, 03:50 PM)
Ah - oil
Some of the traders over here (the mother country) sell Hobbylube and you can get a whole pack of about 6 different oils and greases. I think it's an American product.
The thick one is good for some of the motion and bearings, while the black grease (like Molyslip) is good for external gears and stuff. The little tubes come with some fine tubing so that you can stick the oil in the right place - when you've got your glasses on
there's also white grease, dry graphite an' all sorts in the pack
Ah, beauty - Hobbylube I've heard of (I used one or another of their products once or twice for my soon-to-be-sold-off HO stuff). Hobby shops around here stock it, and yeah the application tubes make it pretty attractive. I'll have to look it up too.
No worries about the steam oil - I've filled it with the stuff for every run. Half the reason I think I've had it fairly easy with this thing so far is that I read the instructions from cover to cover before doing anything. Trouble is the instructions aren't all that great - not much detail, no photos pointing out what's what - had to work it out from the vague descriptions - and from my lurking on this forum, I've found that a lot of what they say can be rather debatable!!!
If I were reviewing this thing, I'd give it about a 9 out of 10, and most of that lost mark would be for the woeful instructions and the way the thing was packed.
As for the lack of drain cocks - well they'd be nice, but I'm not too fussed about them for the moment. Maybe when I get up the guts to kit-build something (looking at buying a Ruby or a Roundhouse kit to play with). I'm happy as long as something doesn't have oscillating cylinders . . . (though I know they do have their place for certain prototypes, they look odd on a garratt . . .).
johnsaintjim
Oct 15 2009, 04:30 PM Post #10
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QUOTE(nadnerbster @ Oct 15 2009, 05:26 PM)
I'm happy as long as something doesn't have oscillating cylinders . . . (though I know they do have their place for certain prototypes, they look odd on a garratt . . .).
It takes all sorts
I'm happy with me Garratt
Attached image(s)
--------------------
Graham
The Evensford and Midland Railway
English narrow gauge in the garden
Visit my new web site at http://www.evensfordandmidland.co.uk
nadnerbster
Oct 15 2009, 05:04 PM Post #11
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QUOTE(johnsaintjim @ Oct 15 2009, 04:30 PM)
QUOTE(nadnerbster @ Oct 15 2009, 05:26 PM)
I'm happy as long as something doesn't have oscillating cylinders . . . (though I know they do have their place for certain prototypes, they look odd on a garratt . . .).
It takes all sorts
I'm happy with me Garratt
I'm sorry - that was very tactless of me I could blame the local hour I suppose - it's now 4am here. But seeing as I'm about to have lunch (shiftworker) I can't use that as an excuse.
I only meant to say oscillating cylinders aren't a personal preference, but I dug myself into a hole with the way I said it . . . it's out of character for me, I'm firmly of the belief that people should not criticise other people's choices when it comes to hobbies and such (as long as everything's legal!).
I'm off to hospital now - having both feet, ankles, shins and knees surgically removed from my mouth . . .
This post has been edited by nadnerbster: Oct 15 2009, 05:07 PM
Keith&Joanna
Keith&Joanna
Oct 15 2009, 05:06 PM Post #12
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I was told recently that chainsaw oil is fine for the moving parts of a steamy, NOT for the internals though.
Not sure if anyone would like to comment on this?
--------------------
Keith from Derby.
All My Videos HERE
All My Pics HERE
ferrysteam
Oct 15 2009, 05:34 PM Post #13
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I think it amounts to preference.
--------------------
Allan from Co Durham.Land of the Prince Bishops.
If crime doesn't pay,why are politicians and bankers so wealthy?
New Haven Neil
Oct 15 2009, 07:52 PM Post #14
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20/50 motor oil does the job nicely......for the machine parts that is. Steam oil for cylinders. Roundhouse, or some thicker stuff for Accu, they use a lot otherwise.
--------------------
A steamy fan from the Isle of Man!
johnsaintjim
Oct 15 2009, 09:13 PM Post #15
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QUOTE(nadnerbster @ Oct 15 2009, 06:04 PM)
QUOTE(johnsaintjim @ Oct 15 2009, 04:30 PM)
QUOTE(nadnerbster @ Oct 15 2009, 05:26 PM)
I'm happy as long as something doesn't have oscillating cylinders . . . (though I know they do have their place for certain prototypes, they look odd on a garratt . . .).
It takes all sorts
I'm happy with me Garratt
I'm sorry - that was very tactless of me I could blame the local hour I suppose - it's now 4am here. But seeing as I'm about to have lunch (shiftworker) I can't use that as an excuse.
I only meant to say oscillating cylinders aren't a personal preference, but I dug myself into a hole with the way I said it . . . it's out of character for me, I'm firmly of the belief that people should not criticise other people's choices when it comes to hobbies and such (as long as everything's legal!).
I'm off to hospital now - having both feet, ankles, shins and knees surgically removed from my mouth . . .
Hey nadnerbster, no problem whatsoever. I know some people say that and I can cope - I even understand what you mean. I wouldn't have been able to afford a Garratt if it hadn't been for the ossie cylinders and one thing you can be sure of is that it's definitely not like a Mamod. Much longer stroke, very controllable and very powerful. But then again, while I don't fancy a Mamod, there are plenty who do and good luck to them.
--------------------
Graham
The Evensford and Midland Railway
English narrow gauge in the garden
Visit my new web site at http://www.evensfordandmidland.co.uk
Zman
Oct 15 2009, 10:14 PM Post #16
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Wondered what forum I was on when first reading the thread title
--------------------
Charles Dickens once wrote; "It is a far, far better thing" then spoilt it by continuing!
Summerlandsteam
Oct 16 2009, 07:41 AM Post #17
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QUOTE(Keith&Joanna @ Oct 15 2009, 06:06 PM)
I was told recently that chainsaw oil is fine for the moving parts of a steamy, NOT for the internals though.
Not sure if anyone would like to comment on this?
Hi Keith
Chainsaw oil is not suitable for lubricating small steam locos as it is "sticky" and acts as a grit magnet. The thin Roundhouse "Steam Oil" has the same effect and is not suitable either (it is, in fact, a compounded bearing oil with similar sticky properties). I have to confess that when I first got back into 16mm, I didn't believe the advice I was given and tried it anyway - not for long - the gritty mess was scary!
I use a thin motor oil on all my locos and it is fine. I also spray with WD40 to clean - though probably not as often as I should.
I have bought a small steam cleaner (from Aldi) but have not tried it yet.......
Cheers
Chris
johnsaintjim
Oct 16 2009, 08:06 AM Post #18
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I use 0w30 car engine oil (guess what oil my car uses) in a small force-feed oil can like the one in this ebay listing http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DRAPER-21719-FORCE-F...2#ht_2927wt_939
I occasionally degrease the loco with Gunk and then re-lubricate. This is mainly if I am working on it cosmetically and I don't want oily fingers everywhere or I want the pint to stick. I haven't jet-washed with WD40 yet but it seems like a good idea. We buy bulk WD40 at work and I now have in mind to put some in a pump bottle and then I can direct it with a tube, just like a water filler. (Mental note not to fill the boiler with WD40 though... . I hope I would notice the sell before I lit up!)
--------------------
Graham
The Evensford and Midland Railway
English narrow gauge in the garden
Visit my new web site at http://www.evensfordandmidland.co.uk
railwayman198
Oct 16 2009, 09:07 AM Post #19
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Following a tip I picked up elsewhere I now use spinning machine oil for the motion on my steamies. It's not too sticky and comes in a bottle with a nice long needle applicator that makes it very easy to use.
http://halcyonyarn.com/spinning/spinninghooks.html
(scroll part way down).
--------------------
Philip
Forest Gate
2 miles from the Olympic building site.
Shrek`s Donkey
Oct 16 2009, 08:15 PM Post #20
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I simply use Singer sewing machine oil for all the moving parts and never had a problem with that. $3 worth lasts forever.
CORGI
Oct 16 2009, 08:42 PM Post #21
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QUOTE(nadnerbster @ Oct 15 2009, 02:06 PM)
Hi to all,
I recently aquired an Accucraft Mogul (see the 6th page of the steam plume contest thread). I've steamed it 5 times now (only on blocks or on my 9 feet of test track thus far unfortunately). I'm exceptionally happy with it - my only previous experience with live steam was running Mike's Janhu (see the second page of the steam plume contest thread) and I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to get the things going, and at how well the locomotive has performed - 7 minutes warm-up and 30+ minutes steaming out of the box.
That said, from the start, I've had very slight "binding", particularly at slow speeds, once per revolution. This seems to have increased slightly over time. I strongly suspect that I need to lubricate the valve gear and such.
Could someone please tell me what oil I should use for this - I've seen reference to "3 in 1" but I've not yet found this product for sale here (Sydney area, Australia). Also, I'm wondering what I should apply the oil to, and how it should be applied.
Also a quick query - what's the best way to clean a locomotive after a run? I've got a fair bit of oily residue, particularly on the underside.
Finally - a fair bit of water (and a little steam-oil) comes out of the cylinders when I first open the regulator after building pressure . . . I'm assuming this is normal, as I don't have cylinder drain cocks?
Many thanks!
I am surprised that you cant find 3-in-1 in Sydney.
Any good hardware store should stock it or a close equivalent.
--------------------
Ron from Oz
Workin' on Puffing Billy.
stevedenver
Oct 16 2009, 08:56 PM Post #22
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fwiw here in the US there is a blue label 3 in 1 -its esetnially 20w oil good for moving outside parts-and so is 20/50 as noted
i have had great luck in using acetone in cleaning the gunk from an engine-for my aster and roundhouse-no ill effect whatsoever on the paint-leaves a very nice clean engine without oil residue
nadnerbster
Oct 15 2009, 02:06 PM Post #1
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From: 60km west of Sydney, Australia
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Hi to all,
I recently aquired an Accucraft Mogul (see the 6th page of the steam plume contest thread). I've steamed it 5 times now (only on blocks or on my 9 feet of test track thus far unfortunately). I'm exceptionally happy with it - my only previous experience with live steam was running Mike's Janhu (see the second page of the steam plume contest thread) and I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to get the things going, and at how well the locomotive has performed - 7 minutes warm-up and 30+ minutes steaming out of the box.
That said, from the start, I've had very slight "binding", particularly at slow speeds, once per revolution. This seems to have increased slightly over time. I strongly suspect that I need to lubricate the valve gear and such.
Could someone please tell me what oil I should use for this - I've seen reference to "3 in 1" but I've not yet found this product for sale here (Sydney area, Australia). Also, I'm wondering what I should apply the oil to, and how it should be applied.
Also a quick query - what's the best way to clean a locomotive after a run? I've got a fair bit of oily residue, particularly on the underside.
Finally - a fair bit of water (and a little steam-oil) comes out of the cylinders when I first open the regulator after building pressure . . . I'm assuming this is normal, as I don't have cylinder drain cocks?
Many thanks!
hobbyfossi201
Oct 15 2009, 02:43 PM Post #2
Group: Member.
Posts: 11
Joined: 11-September 08
Member No.: 421
Hi,
for lubricating all the parts in motion I use specific oil purchased from Regner, a German manufactory of live steam equipment.
But I´ve heard that it is possible to use plain automotive motor oil for lubricating these parts. Maybe other forum members could give here separte advice.
in regard to the cleaning: I use a soft cloth/fabrik to wipe off the bodyshell and underside - if it´s too much. But that primarilly depends on your personell preference.
And yes, your last statement refers to the so called "Priming", which means the steam gets into the cold cylinders and condensates therefore. That´s quite normal and after a few revolutions back and forth the cylinders are hot and the steam is passed through.
hope my explenations help.
kind regards
hobbyfossi201
QUOTE(nadnerbster @ Oct 15 2009, 02:06 PM)
Hi to all,
I recently aquired an Accucraft Mogul (see the 6th page of the steam plume contest thread). I've steamed it 5 times now (only on blocks or on my 9 feet of test track thus far unfortunately). I'm exceptionally happy with it - my only previous experience with live steam was running Mike's Janhu (see the second page of the steam plume contest thread) and I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to get the things going, and at how well the locomotive has performed - 7 minutes warm-up and 30+ minutes steaming out of the box.
That said, from the start, I've had very slight "binding", particularly at slow speeds, once per revolution. This seems to have increased slightly over time. I strongly suspect that I need to lubricate the valve gear and such.
Could someone please tell me what oil I should use for this - I've seen reference to "3 in 1" but I've not yet found this product for sale here (Sydney area, Australia). Also, I'm wondering what I should apply the oil to, and how it should be applied.
Also a quick query - what's the best way to clean a locomotive after a run? I've got a fair bit of oily residue, particularly on the underside.
Finally - a fair bit of water (and a little steam-oil) comes out of the cylinders when I first open the regulator after building pressure . . . I'm assuming this is normal, as I don't have cylinder drain cocks?
Many thanks!
ferrysteam
Oct 15 2009, 03:19 PM Post #3
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Posts: 406
Joined: 3-September 08
From: Ferryhill, Co Durham
Member No.: 134
I find the best oil for bearings and the motion is gun oil.It's not as acid as 3in1 and a more pure oil.Only use steam oil for the cylinders.
--------------------
Allan from Co Durham.Land of the Prince Bishops.
If crime doesn't pay,why are politicians and bankers so wealthy?
ferrysteam
Oct 15 2009, 03:22 PM Post #4
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Posts: 406
Joined: 3-September 08
From: Ferryhill, Co Durham
Member No.: 134
To clean under the engine after a run use WD40.
--------------------
Allan from Co Durham.Land of the Prince Bishops.
If crime doesn't pay,why are politicians and bankers so wealthy?
nadnerbster
Oct 15 2009, 03:36 PM Post #5
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Posts: 8
Joined: 15-October 09
From: 60km west of Sydney, Australia
Member No.: 3073
Thanks for the replies. I'll have to have a look for some gun oil. And thanks for explaining Priming, hobbyfossi201 - I'd thought that was only the result of overfilling the boiler.
So I just apply the oil to the various bearings and such?
Out of curiosity, with live steam - is a certain amount of stalling "normal", even for well lubricated machines? From what I've seen, slow speed control isn't exactly easy.
QUOTE(ferrysteam @ Oct 15 2009, 03:22 PM)
To clean under the engine after a run use WD40.
WD40 as a cleaning agent? Do you spray it on and wipe it off or something?
This post has been edited by nadnerbster: Oct 15 2009, 03:37 PM
rhinochugger
Oct 15 2009, 03:41 PM Post #6
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QUOTE(nadnerbster @ Oct 15 2009, 03:06 PM)
Finally - a fair bit of water (and a little steam-oil) comes out of the cylinders when I first open the regulator after building pressure . . . I'm assuming this is normal, as I don't have cylinder drain cocks?
Some of the purists, who like to have things like drain cocks on their locos, criticise the Accy Mogul because of the lack of 'em.
The answer is that the initial condensate is going to spit out for the first few seconds, and then, when the cylinder walls an' all of the stuff inside has warmed up a bit, their won't be so much
My Accy Shay does the same. I did read one review by a 'knowledgable' preson that, dependant on the type of valve mechanism, you can shunt the lever between forwards & reverse to blow out the condensate. This applies to the Shay, but you need to know what sort of valve gear you've got before you try it on anything else.
Becaue of the nature of the Shay mechanicals, I don't sit around too much to wait for it to build up steam pressure, I just stick the lever in forwards (or rerverse as appropriate) and when it's ready, it moves off
--------------------
Ian, Fat Controller of the Wild West Sussex Railroad
rhinochugger
Oct 15 2009, 03:46 PM Post #7
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QUOTE(nadnerbster @ Oct 15 2009, 04:36 PM)
So I just apply the oil to the various bearings and such?
General rule with a steam engine; if it moves, oil it
An' don't forget the steam oil in the little screw-top wotsit inside the cab - you've probably worked that bit out for yoruself. For the Shay, a filling of steam oil seems to last about two gas tanks of running. Then I undo the drain cock to let the condensate run out, and as it starts to thicken up and become oily, tighten up the drain cock again
Seems to work for me OK
--------------------
Ian, Fat Controller of the Wild West Sussex Railroad
rhinochugger
Oct 15 2009, 03:50 PM Post #8
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Ah - oil
Some of the traders over here (the mother country) sell Hobbylube and you can get a whole pack of about 6 different oils and greases. I think it's an American product.
The thick one is good for some of the motion and bearings, while the black grease (like Molyslip) is good for external gears and stuff. The little tubes come with some fine tubing so that you can stick the oil in the right place - when you've got your glasses on
there's also white grease, dry graphite an' all sorts in the pack
--------------------
Ian, Fat Controller of the Wild West Sussex Railroad
nadnerbster
Oct 15 2009, 04:26 PM Post #9
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QUOTE(rhinochugger @ Oct 15 2009, 03:50 PM)
Ah - oil
Some of the traders over here (the mother country) sell Hobbylube and you can get a whole pack of about 6 different oils and greases. I think it's an American product.
The thick one is good for some of the motion and bearings, while the black grease (like Molyslip) is good for external gears and stuff. The little tubes come with some fine tubing so that you can stick the oil in the right place - when you've got your glasses on
there's also white grease, dry graphite an' all sorts in the pack
Ah, beauty - Hobbylube I've heard of (I used one or another of their products once or twice for my soon-to-be-sold-off HO stuff). Hobby shops around here stock it, and yeah the application tubes make it pretty attractive. I'll have to look it up too.
No worries about the steam oil - I've filled it with the stuff for every run. Half the reason I think I've had it fairly easy with this thing so far is that I read the instructions from cover to cover before doing anything. Trouble is the instructions aren't all that great - not much detail, no photos pointing out what's what - had to work it out from the vague descriptions - and from my lurking on this forum, I've found that a lot of what they say can be rather debatable!!!
If I were reviewing this thing, I'd give it about a 9 out of 10, and most of that lost mark would be for the woeful instructions and the way the thing was packed.
As for the lack of drain cocks - well they'd be nice, but I'm not too fussed about them for the moment. Maybe when I get up the guts to kit-build something (looking at buying a Ruby or a Roundhouse kit to play with). I'm happy as long as something doesn't have oscillating cylinders . . . (though I know they do have their place for certain prototypes, they look odd on a garratt . . .).
johnsaintjim
Oct 15 2009, 04:30 PM Post #10
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QUOTE(nadnerbster @ Oct 15 2009, 05:26 PM)
I'm happy as long as something doesn't have oscillating cylinders . . . (though I know they do have their place for certain prototypes, they look odd on a garratt . . .).
It takes all sorts
I'm happy with me Garratt
Attached image(s)
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Graham
The Evensford and Midland Railway
English narrow gauge in the garden
Visit my new web site at http://www.evensfordandmidland.co.uk
nadnerbster
Oct 15 2009, 05:04 PM Post #11
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QUOTE(johnsaintjim @ Oct 15 2009, 04:30 PM)
QUOTE(nadnerbster @ Oct 15 2009, 05:26 PM)
I'm happy as long as something doesn't have oscillating cylinders . . . (though I know they do have their place for certain prototypes, they look odd on a garratt . . .).
It takes all sorts
I'm happy with me Garratt
I'm sorry - that was very tactless of me I could blame the local hour I suppose - it's now 4am here. But seeing as I'm about to have lunch (shiftworker) I can't use that as an excuse.
I only meant to say oscillating cylinders aren't a personal preference, but I dug myself into a hole with the way I said it . . . it's out of character for me, I'm firmly of the belief that people should not criticise other people's choices when it comes to hobbies and such (as long as everything's legal!).
I'm off to hospital now - having both feet, ankles, shins and knees surgically removed from my mouth . . .
This post has been edited by nadnerbster: Oct 15 2009, 05:07 PM
Keith&Joanna
Keith&Joanna
Oct 15 2009, 05:06 PM Post #12
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I was told recently that chainsaw oil is fine for the moving parts of a steamy, NOT for the internals though.
Not sure if anyone would like to comment on this?
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Keith from Derby.
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ferrysteam
Oct 15 2009, 05:34 PM Post #13
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I think it amounts to preference.
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Allan from Co Durham.Land of the Prince Bishops.
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New Haven Neil
Oct 15 2009, 07:52 PM Post #14
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20/50 motor oil does the job nicely......for the machine parts that is. Steam oil for cylinders. Roundhouse, or some thicker stuff for Accu, they use a lot otherwise.
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A steamy fan from the Isle of Man!
johnsaintjim
Oct 15 2009, 09:13 PM Post #15
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QUOTE(nadnerbster @ Oct 15 2009, 06:04 PM)
QUOTE(johnsaintjim @ Oct 15 2009, 04:30 PM)
QUOTE(nadnerbster @ Oct 15 2009, 05:26 PM)
I'm happy as long as something doesn't have oscillating cylinders . . . (though I know they do have their place for certain prototypes, they look odd on a garratt . . .).
It takes all sorts
I'm happy with me Garratt
I'm sorry - that was very tactless of me I could blame the local hour I suppose - it's now 4am here. But seeing as I'm about to have lunch (shiftworker) I can't use that as an excuse.
I only meant to say oscillating cylinders aren't a personal preference, but I dug myself into a hole with the way I said it . . . it's out of character for me, I'm firmly of the belief that people should not criticise other people's choices when it comes to hobbies and such (as long as everything's legal!).
I'm off to hospital now - having both feet, ankles, shins and knees surgically removed from my mouth . . .
Hey nadnerbster, no problem whatsoever. I know some people say that and I can cope - I even understand what you mean. I wouldn't have been able to afford a Garratt if it hadn't been for the ossie cylinders and one thing you can be sure of is that it's definitely not like a Mamod. Much longer stroke, very controllable and very powerful. But then again, while I don't fancy a Mamod, there are plenty who do and good luck to them.
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Graham
The Evensford and Midland Railway
English narrow gauge in the garden
Visit my new web site at http://www.evensfordandmidland.co.uk
Zman
Oct 15 2009, 10:14 PM Post #16
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Wondered what forum I was on when first reading the thread title
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Charles Dickens once wrote; "It is a far, far better thing" then spoilt it by continuing!
Summerlandsteam
Oct 16 2009, 07:41 AM Post #17
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From: Dorset, England
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QUOTE(Keith&Joanna @ Oct 15 2009, 06:06 PM)
I was told recently that chainsaw oil is fine for the moving parts of a steamy, NOT for the internals though.
Not sure if anyone would like to comment on this?
Hi Keith
Chainsaw oil is not suitable for lubricating small steam locos as it is "sticky" and acts as a grit magnet. The thin Roundhouse "Steam Oil" has the same effect and is not suitable either (it is, in fact, a compounded bearing oil with similar sticky properties). I have to confess that when I first got back into 16mm, I didn't believe the advice I was given and tried it anyway - not for long - the gritty mess was scary!
I use a thin motor oil on all my locos and it is fine. I also spray with WD40 to clean - though probably not as often as I should.
I have bought a small steam cleaner (from Aldi) but have not tried it yet.......
Cheers
Chris
johnsaintjim
Oct 16 2009, 08:06 AM Post #18
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I use 0w30 car engine oil (guess what oil my car uses) in a small force-feed oil can like the one in this ebay listing http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DRAPER-21719-FORCE-F...2#ht_2927wt_939
I occasionally degrease the loco with Gunk and then re-lubricate. This is mainly if I am working on it cosmetically and I don't want oily fingers everywhere or I want the pint to stick. I haven't jet-washed with WD40 yet but it seems like a good idea. We buy bulk WD40 at work and I now have in mind to put some in a pump bottle and then I can direct it with a tube, just like a water filler. (Mental note not to fill the boiler with WD40 though... . I hope I would notice the sell before I lit up!)
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Graham
The Evensford and Midland Railway
English narrow gauge in the garden
Visit my new web site at http://www.evensfordandmidland.co.uk
railwayman198
Oct 16 2009, 09:07 AM Post #19
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Following a tip I picked up elsewhere I now use spinning machine oil for the motion on my steamies. It's not too sticky and comes in a bottle with a nice long needle applicator that makes it very easy to use.
http://halcyonyarn.com/spinning/spinninghooks.html
(scroll part way down).
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Philip
Forest Gate
2 miles from the Olympic building site.
Shrek`s Donkey
Oct 16 2009, 08:15 PM Post #20
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I simply use Singer sewing machine oil for all the moving parts and never had a problem with that. $3 worth lasts forever.
CORGI
Oct 16 2009, 08:42 PM Post #21
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From: Melbourne Australia
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QUOTE(nadnerbster @ Oct 15 2009, 02:06 PM)
Hi to all,
I recently aquired an Accucraft Mogul (see the 6th page of the steam plume contest thread). I've steamed it 5 times now (only on blocks or on my 9 feet of test track thus far unfortunately). I'm exceptionally happy with it - my only previous experience with live steam was running Mike's Janhu (see the second page of the steam plume contest thread) and I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to get the things going, and at how well the locomotive has performed - 7 minutes warm-up and 30+ minutes steaming out of the box.
That said, from the start, I've had very slight "binding", particularly at slow speeds, once per revolution. This seems to have increased slightly over time. I strongly suspect that I need to lubricate the valve gear and such.
Could someone please tell me what oil I should use for this - I've seen reference to "3 in 1" but I've not yet found this product for sale here (Sydney area, Australia). Also, I'm wondering what I should apply the oil to, and how it should be applied.
Also a quick query - what's the best way to clean a locomotive after a run? I've got a fair bit of oily residue, particularly on the underside.
Finally - a fair bit of water (and a little steam-oil) comes out of the cylinders when I first open the regulator after building pressure . . . I'm assuming this is normal, as I don't have cylinder drain cocks?
Many thanks!
I am surprised that you cant find 3-in-1 in Sydney.
Any good hardware store should stock it or a close equivalent.
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Ron from Oz
Workin' on Puffing Billy.
stevedenver
Oct 16 2009, 08:56 PM Post #22
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fwiw here in the US there is a blue label 3 in 1 -its esetnially 20w oil good for moving outside parts-and so is 20/50 as noted
i have had great luck in using acetone in cleaning the gunk from an engine-for my aster and roundhouse-no ill effect whatsoever on the paint-leaves a very nice clean engine without oil residue