Filler ? Paste or Putty

[DickyC]

Hi all, my first ventures in plasikard, any recommendations for filling the gaps ? paste or putty ?

 

[Paul M]

Depends on what the material is that you're filling. No2 Child uses Polyfiller with great success on her 3D printed goods

 

[GAP]

I have used milliput with good success, but I have also used acrylic gap filler.
Did see a discussion about using baking soda and superglue to "weld" stryene together.

 

[JimmyB]

Really depends on the gap or dent. Milliput can be good for big gaps, though I prefer Revell Plasto, beaware this is solvent based, I have used the Deluxe offering, but being water based, does not appreciate wet "wet and dry" which dissolves it.

 

[David1226]

For small defects or gaps, having nothing else to hand and wanting to finish the job, I have successfully used Polyfilla fine, quick drying filler. I always have a tube of that to hand as it's my go to D-I-Y filler for jobs around the house. Nothing has cracked or dropped out, to date.

David

 

[DickyC]

Wow, polyfila interesting ! im wanting to get a everso slightly curved edge to the corner of two plastikards edges placed at 90deg. I like the idea of using a posxy putty as it can be placed by hand and "molded"

"baking soda and superglue" thats crazy science...I like it !

 

[PhilP]

I found the baking soda and super glue, to be rock-hard (so difficult to work) and also grainy..

Several fillers, I have found, are not waterproof. - Even has one go 'soft' from the damp in an unheated shed.

PhilP

 

[David1226]

Wow, polyfila interesting ! im wanting to get a everso slightly curved edge to the corner of two plastikards edges placed at 90deg. I like the idea of using a posxy putty as it can be placed by hand and "molded"

"baking soda and superglue" thats crazy science...I like it !

It you want rounded edges in plasticard joins at 90 degrees, you should cut the edges square and butt joint them. If additional strength is required (always advisable), further layers of plaisicard can be added to the inside edge. When set, file/sand the corners to give the rounded edges you want. If your original cutting and gluing of the butt joint is true and square, there should be no gaps to fill. Below is a pic, taken well over 35 years ago, in my days of scratch building in O-16.5. Plenty of rounded edges with no filler.



David

 

[DickyC]

It you want rounded edges in plasticard joins at 90 degrees, you should cut the edges square and butt joint them. If additional strength is required (always advisable), further layers of plaisicard can be added to the inside edge. When set, file/sand the corners to give the rounded edges you want. If your original cutting and gluing of the butt joint is true and square, there should be no gaps to fill. Below is a pic, taken well over 35 years ago, in my days of scratch building in O-16.5. Plenty of rounded edges with no filler.

View attachment 323119

David

I bow down, you sir are an engineer of great skill ! thanks., any more photos of the "build"

 

[DickyC]

PS, I will be fusing the plastikard to and LGB item, any advise on best bond/glue for this ?

 

[David1226]

I bow down, you sir are an engineer of great skill ! thanks., any more photos of the "build"

Unfortunately, in those days, I didn't take any stage photographs as I went along. It was all 35mm negative film. Here are a couple more pics of the loco in the raw.





Here are a couple of pics of the finished loco.





David

 

[DickyC]

Unfortunately, in those days, I didn't take any stage photographs as I went along. It was all 35mm negative film. Here are a couple more pics of the loco in the raw.





Here are a couple of pics of the finished loco.





David

That could be 3d printed if I was asked nowadays ! I play around with 3d print, but I have to admit it feels Souless as its originally designed on a souless computer. what you have created is part of you and (im sounding all new age and that i am not im a catholic ! ) your imagination, created through distinct stages just how the original engine was at the works. thanks for the inspiration

 

[David1226]

That could be 3d printed if I was asked nowadays ! I play around with 3d print, but I have to admit it feels Souless as its originally designed on a souless computer. what you have created is part of you and (im sounding all new age and that i am not im a catholic ! ) your imagination, created through distinct stages just how the original engine was at the works. thanks for the inspiration

I'm very much old school, I prefer to shape and create things with my hands, I regard 3D printing very much as cheating and not modelling. There has been much discussion on this Forum about it's merits and the skill required to create the 3D images, but I regard it as computer programming and electronic wizardry, not modelling. I am not above using 3D parts myself, where appropriate, but not a whole model.

David

 

[JimmyB]

I'm very much old school, I prefer to shape and create things with my hands, I regard 3D printing very much as cheating and not modelling. There has been much discussion on this Forum about it's merits and the skill required to create the 3D images, but I regard it as computer programming and electronic wizardry, not modelling. I am not above using 3D parts myself, where appropriate, but not a whole model.

David

I feel 3D printing has its place, small fiddly repetitive items could save a lot of heart ache, not having a 3D printer myself, on occasions I wish I had.

 

[Paul M]

I'm very much old school, I prefer to shape and create things with my hands, I regard 3D printing very much as cheating and not modelling. There has been much discussion on this Forum about it's merits and the skill required to create the 3D images, but I regard it as computer programming and electronic wizardry, not modelling. I am not above using 3D parts myself, where appropriate, but not a whole model.

David

It's just another facet of the hobby as a whole. Different skills etc. And, of course, the kit manufacturers who use it have opened up to hobby for those who maybe couldn't afford a RTR loco, or haven't the ability to scratch build. Personally I wish I had the skills to do either, or at least the time and patience to learn the skills!

 

[maxi-model]

DickyC, it would be helpful to see your entire project to give helpful advice, rather than piecemeal revelations Fillers, 2 part(pack) or 1, and ad hoc concoctions, are formulated for vastly different types of application, for skim and deep filling and even virtual moulding. As pointed out by David even the actual construction of the piece(s) needs to be properly evaluated to get a usable and sound result. Likewise, when bonding two disparate types of material many different adhesives and even bonding methods can be used and quite few shouldn't. LGB's predominant use of "Luran" type plastic is notorious for its resistance to most solvent type adhesives - despite it being part of the styrene tech' "family".

As an aside, I cannot understand why there is such resistance from some to those who choose to "model" through use of more recently developed technologies. It does not deny or devalue anybody's efforts, ether way. I'm quite happy to build using, cast white metal & QC resin (a 40 + year old tech, then much reviled by the brass soldering traditionalists) laser cut or 3d printed, and researched using the web or a digital camera Great if you have the skills and time to build from scratch and from "found" materials. However, I do not think there would be much of a hobby (or any modelling hobbies for that matter) if we did not have the benefit of these advances to develop volume product or make available more niche items to eager buyers. Max