Electronic speed controller

tramcar trev

tramcar trev

all manner of mechanical apparatus...
Found this one that will handle up to 15 volts forward/reverse. It says its 72mm wide which I assume is over the length of the connecting wires....
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/071-50A-400W-Brushed-ESC-W-Reverse-suit-with-540-550-600-motor-2-4S-lipo-RC-/200992137093?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item2ecc109f85
 
Now, how would this fit into an R/C equipped loco. I'm not sure I understand the need for it.
 
Madman said:
Now, how would this fit into an R/C equipped loco. I'm not sure I understand the need for it.
Click to expand...

This small ESC device is a speed controller with BEC which broadly means that you can run your low powered receiver from the main high powered battery pack as its output to the receiver input is regulated to provide the required voltage for the receiver while driving the motor(s) at the much higher demanded voltage, this saving the need for an additional receiver battery pack.

Basically the cruise control allows the transmitter to be turned off and the model (marine or rail) will continue running at the last setting until the transmitter is switched back on. I have used these small Mtroniks (Viper Marine) speed controllers for years with no problems whatsoever. We currently have eight of our locos running from a variety of power packs using a variety of receivers and these very small and foolproof speed controllers. Oh yes, the important bit. They are totally waterproof and relatively inexpensive.
 
ROSS said:
I have these. Small! 12v/10 amp

http://shop.huntersystems.co.uk/microviper-loco--esc---brushed---forward-and-reverse-speed-control-with-cruise-control-164-p.asp

[attachimg=1]
Click to expand...
VERY IMPRESSIVE Ross.... Alas by the time I got one in my hot little hands I would have to part with around AU$100 (world politics, collapse of the Aussie dollar etc)
 
Enginehouse said:
This small ESC device is a speed controller with BEC which broadly means that you can run your low powered receiver from the main high powered battery pack as its output to the receiver input is regulated to provide the required voltage for the receiver while driving the motor(s) at the much higher demanded voltage, this saving the need for an additional receiver battery pack.

Basically the cruise control allows the transmitter to be turned off and the model (marine or rail) will continue running at the last setting until the transmitter is switched back on. I have used these small Mtroniks (Viper Marine) speed controllers for years with no problems whatsoever. We currently have eight of our locos running from a variety of power packs using a variety of receivers and these very small and foolproof speed controllers. Oh yes, the important bit. They are totally waterproof and relatively inexpensive.
Click to expand...
ROSS said:
I have these. Small! 12v/10 amp

http://shop.huntersystems.co.uk/microviper-loco--esc---brushed---forward-and-reverse-speed-control-with-cruise-control-164-p.asp

[attachimg=1]
Click to expand...

They look good, just a couple of questions;

The drive freq is 1KHz is it noticeable when running.

Is the reverse via the small switch? If so the a servo could be used.

I did notice the OONO small switch on the same page as well.
 
They look good, just a couple of questions;

The drive freq is 1KHz is it noticeable when running.

Is the reverse via the small switch? If so the a servo could be used.

I did notice the OONO small switch on the same page as well.

[/quote]

The frequency is only noticeable at slow speeds, and only just at that.
The small switch is the ESC power switch. Reversing is built in although I programmed mine to use (nearly) 100% throttle stick with an rc switch on a separate channel to control direction. The rc switch works 2 relays, one DPDT which operates the direction and one SPDT which operates automatic headlight changing.
 
ROSS said:
The push button switch shown is to set the thing up (bind).
The whole thing then operates per the signals received from a transmitter.
Click to expand...
So you dont need a reciever? Normally one "binds" the RX to the Tx...
 
ROSS said:
The push button switch shown is to set the thing up (bind).
The whole thing then operates per the signals received from a transmitter.
Click to expand...
I've just seen that the picture doesn't show the small slide switch that is connected to the two black leads, this is the one I was referring to in my post above, not the set up button that you refer to.
 
Trev.
If you can live with 3 amps up to 18 volts you should consider the ALPHA-3 CO or LO models.
The DSM2 RX is built into the ESC so no extra RX to pay for.
You can program for Centre OFF control or Low OFF control.
Directional LED lighting outputs and sound triggers are built in.
Super small size.

ALPHA-3.jpg
 
3amps is more than I need but these would not be compatible with my Tx. No doubt that they work very well but I dont have that system...
 
Tony Walsham said:
Never mind Trev.
Your loss, not mine. ;)
Click to expand...

Yes well on consideration I think I may be ahead, financially by quite a safe margin. ;D
 
nicebutdim said:
I've just seen that the picture doesn't show the small slide switch that is connected to the two black leads, this is the one I was referring to in my post above, not the set up button that you refer to.
Click to expand...

Not sure to which photograph you are referring, but the Viper has a a slider type isolating switch to cut the power to the device. I always replace these with decent toggle switches which are easily reached from outside the model. The Ebay photograph at the head of the thread shows this switch with red and black connections for some reason which seems a bit confusing as the switch just breaks a single common power line.
 
Enginehouse said:
Not sure to which photograph you are referring, but the Viper has a a slider type isolating switch to cut the power to the device. I always replace these with decent toggle switches which are easily reached from outside the model. The Ebay photograph at the head of the thread shows this switch with red and black connections for some reason which seems a bit confusing as the switch just breaks a single common power line.
Click to expand...
I don't even use that slider switch, it is on all the time and tapped up out of the way. I put a toggle switch on the supply from the batteries (fused at the battery first) for a power switch.
 
I usually replace sliders with these; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10pcs-MTS-102-3-Pin-SPDT-ON-ON-6A-125VAC-Mini-Toggle-Switches-NEW-AU-/231296060536?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item35da51cc78
So much easier to mount and can be painted to be more discrete....
 
Tramcar Trev said:
3amps is more than I need but these would not be compatible with my Tx. No doubt that they work very well but I dont have that system...
Click to expand...

Have to agree with you Trev DSM2 was a limiting factor when I was looking for an ESC for my Shay.

I found that the cost of transmitters was higher than standard transmitters.

I have never been fond of tying myself to a proprietary format that is not compatible with other formats, personally I find it just restricts flexibility.
 
You will find that with the exception of rebranded Hobby King R/C and possibly other brands, every 2.4 Ghz R/C has a different (non compatible) operating protocol.
DSM2 protocols are not only used by Spektrum but by Orange and Deltang as well.
It is the most popular operating protocol out there and is the reason why Deltang chose to use it.
By the time you add the cost of a 2.4 GHz RX to the cost of an ESC, the Deltang sourced ALPHA-3, which has a built in 2.4 GHz RX, becomes quite competitive, especially as it offers so much more than a basic centre off ESC.
For example, Constant brightness directional lighting, sound trigger functions, low battery warning (if programmed into it), ultra small size, choice of LOW OFF control or CENTRE OFF control, choice of PWM frequency and low cost.
 
GAP said:
Have to agree with you Trev DSM2 was a limiting factor when I was looking for an ESC for my Shay.

I found that the cost of transmitters was higher than standard transmitters.

I have never been fond of tying myself to a proprietary format that is not compatible with other formats, personally I find it just restricts flexibility.
Click to expand...
Well I guess I am tied in to 2.4gHz.... Having said that when I went through the excercise of switching over to R/C it cost me less than $100 for all the necessary goodies to control 6 trams. Now with the benifit of hindsight I may go to individual controllers for each, for around $30 I can get the stuff I need for each tram from Hobby King, and do what I did with the 6 channel set and repack the new 3 Ch sets in a separate jiffy box with a knob for speed and 2 switches, 1 for lights, 1 for sound (or whatever use I find).... As Im going to China next year I have a few leads on wholesalers in Beijing and Shenzhen with even lower prices and I think even mailing them back is going to be even more cost effective.... Did you know that HK have a Rx and esc all in one now for around $16? Its a PCB in heatshrink setup but unless you need to be water resistant what does it matter? Unfortunatley life as a retiree requires considerable fiscal restraint so that I can afford to fly Business class overseas....
 
dunnyrail said:
Gosh Trev 'Business Class' and you suggested once that I may be 'well healed'!!!
JonD
Click to expand...
Well it worked out cheaper to fly Business class with Garuda than economy with Quantas...
 
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