Driven mad by shuttle unit

Paul2727

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Good morning all,
In a collection of 2nd hand track, I acquired what would appear to be a LGB 10340 shuttle unit all fitted into a buffer stop as you would expect.
However even after fighting my way through the minefield of incorrect wiring diagrams and their subsequent revisions, I still can't get the thing to do what it should. It starts the loco slowly and builds up speed as it should but does not stop at the cut / diode just continues to increase speed. The direction of the controller makes no difference, it still only goes in the same direction. I've tried increasingly larger diodes (Starting with IN4004's) to no avail, nothing seems to bring it to a halt and reverse as it should. I am using an analog system. Oddly every image of the 10340 shuttle unit I can find shows two blue dials, but mine are red. Otherwise it appears identical, and shows no sign of any overheating or damage. Can anyone confirm if the two cuts / diodes are supposed to be on the same side of the track as shown in the wiring diagram or on opposite sides. I want it to operate in mode 1. Does anyone know which position the 2 little switches need to be in?
Have I got a defective 10340 or is this something else entirely? (Made for digital control perhaps?)
Any advice or insight would be most helpful as it's driving me round the bend.
Thanks for looking.
Paul.
NB; Shouting at the damned thing and threatening to throw it in the pond has no effect either. (Trust me, I've tried.)
 
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braining some more about it.
you say, that the diode does not stop the loco, (and that you tried different diodes), there are only two possible options:
1) you have the diode in the wrong direction
2) there is another (not noticed) connection to the rail separated by the diode.

i suppose, that you tried for No 1)

so, that leaves No 2)
did you set up this test on a separate length of track, or on your general track? (with connection to the transformer behind the diode?)
do you have any additional pick ups in the tender or a car, that is cabled to the loco?

edit:
or do you have one of these modern locos, that have one of these gizzmos to store some power, to get well over turnouts etc.?

edit's edit:

suggested tests:
take out the diode completly. does the loco stop?

use an old loco (clamshell Stainz or so) without electronics. no tender, no cars. does the diode stop it?
 
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braining some more about it.
you say, that the diode does not stop the loco, (and that you tried different diodes), there are only two possible options:
1) you have the diode in the wrong direction
2) there is another (not noticed) connection to the rail separated by the diode.

i suppose, that you tried for No 1)

so, that leaves No 2)
did you set up this test on a separate length of track, or on your general track? (with connection to the transformer behind the diode?)
do you have any additional pick ups in the tender or a car, that is cabled to the loco?

edit:
or do you have one of these modern locos, that have one of these gizzmos to store some power, to get well over turnouts etc.?

edit's edit:

suggested tests:
take out the diode completly. does the loco stop?

use an old loco (clamshell Stainz or so) without electronics. no tender, no cars. does the diode stop it?
Thank you for your reply.
First a little background. I'm using an old DC LGB tram loco (Fiery Elias.) with no fancy electronics on a short length of track unconnected to any other power source.
After your reply I double checked everything.
Under close scrutiny I discovered one of the two 1015U's I am using as the break rails had a tiny blob of solder creating a electrical link across the break. Great I thought, problem solved...

Unfortunately not...
The loco built up speed, stopped after all wheels passed the cut, but would it reverse, no...
So I went back to basics.
Test 1: Multimeter connected to track to check controller. Everything works as it should.
Test 2: Cut tracks with diodes fitted to same rail.
2a: Controller to forward position. Loco runs and stops after all wheels pass cut as it should. Multimeter showing 14v between cuts with red cable as +
2b: Controller to reverse position. Loco runs and stops after all wheels pass cut as it should. Multimeter showing 14v between cuts with red cable as -
Test 3 Same set up but with shuttle unit wired for mode 1 between controller and track.
3a: Controller to forward position. Loco slowly accelerates and stops after all wheels pass cut as it should. Multimeter showing 14v between cuts with red cable as +. So far so good.
3b: Loco does not automatically reverse, waiting, waiting... Nothing. Multimeter showing 14v between cuts with red cable as +. No change in polarity detected.
3c: Turn off controller, place loco in centre of track. Turn controller to reverse position. Loco slowly accelerates in same direction as before and stops after all wheels pass cut. Multimeter showing 14v between cuts with red cable as +. Obviously the shuttle has changed the polarity of the feed. Loco does not reverse.
3d: Tried every combination of the two switches to no avail. Tried altering the pause dial to no avail.
Test 4: Cut tracks with diodes fitted to opposite rails with on diode reversed. Shuttle unit removed.
4a: Controller to forward position. Loco runs and stops after all wheels pass cut as it should. Multimeter showing 14v between cuts with red cable as +
4b: Controller to reverse position. Loco runs and stops after all wheels pass cut as it should. Multimeter showing 14v between cuts with red cable as -
Test 5: Same set up but with shuttle unit wired for mode 1 between controller and track.
5a: Controller to forward position. Loco slowly accelerates and stops after all wheels pass cut as it should. Multimeter showing 14v between cuts with red cable as +. So far so good.
5b: Loco does not automatically reverse, waiting, waiting... Nothing. Multimeter showing 14v between cuts with red cable as +. No change in polarity detected.
5c: Turn off controller, place loco in centre of track. Turn controller to reverse position. Loco slowly accelerates in same direction as before and stops after all wheels pass cut. Multimeter showing 14v between cuts with red cable as +. Obviously the shuttle has changed the polarity of the feed. Loco does not reverse.
5d: Tried every combination of the two switches to no avail. Tried altering the pause dial to no avail.
Test 6: See if there's any beer in the fridge....
Test 7: Sulk...

WHY WON'T IT REVERSE?

Either there's an issue with the diodes, the main circuit board or the damned things toying with me...
 
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Simple thing..
Do you have another diode? - The one you do have may have failed?
Hi Peter, Thanks for your reply. Yes I've tried different diodes. It also seems I am not alone in this.
See post "Problems with LGB10340 reversing unit"
 
sorry, Paul,
after digesting the long list of tests you made, the single idea, i could come up with, would be to try it with another shuttle electronics.

or, if having a shuttle section is more important than making this thing run, to go another way for shuttle traffic.
read here: http://kormsen.info/lgb-manual.pdf on page 121.
 
sorry, Paul,
after digesting the long list of tests you made, the single idea, i could come up with, would be to try it with another shuttle electronics.

or, if having a shuttle section is more important than making this thing run, to go another way for shuttle traffic.
read here: http://kormsen.info/lgb-manual.pdf on page 121.
Good morning.
I concur. I'd already checked page 121 of the LGB bible and have now ordered a simple Shuttle unit from 'Mr rails' off e-bay. True it will require the use of 16v AC as well as track connections but at £13 it's worth a go. I'm not expected particularly fine control at that price, but for my needs it should do until something better comes along.
Regards,
Paul.
 
Good morning.
I concur. I'd already checked page 121 of the LGB bible and have now ordered a simple Shuttle unit from 'Mr rails' off e-bay. True it will require the use of 16v AC as well as track connections but at £13 it's worth a go. I'm not expected particularly fine control at that price, but for my needs it should do until something better comes along.
Regards,
Paul.

I'd be interested on how it performs.
 
I'd be interested on how it performs.

i have one that i use at Christmas, seems fine if you just want something basic, mine runs from an old .5 amp lgb controller running a little lgb Santa hand car back and forwards, its left on 24 hours a day for about 10-15 days every Christmas for the past 4 years or so.

fantastic for the price.
 
I used 8 amp shuttles for higher power locos and loads etc.
They are great units and I have two of them which I do not need.
I will list them on the classified section but £30 would seem a fair price

s-l1600.jpg
 
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i have one that i use at Christmas, seems fine if you just want something basic, mine runs from an old .5 amp lgb controller running a little lgb Santa hand car back and forwards, its left on 24 hours a day for about 10-15 days every Christmas for the past 4 years or so.

fantastic for the price.
That's encouraging. I'm intending to use an old Gaugemaster Combi 1 amp 12v controller as I don't need speed for the application I have in mind, and I should be able to get both into a nice little watertight box.
Paul.
I used 8 amp shuttles for higher power locos and loads etc.
They are great units and I have two of them which I do not need.
I will list them on the classified section but £30 would seem a fair price

View attachment 242563
Sound very fair compared with the cost of an LGB one.
Paul.
 
That's encouraging. I'm intending to use an old Gaugemaster Combi 1 amp 12v controller as I don't need speed for the application I have in mind, and I should be able to get both into a nice little watertight box.
Paul.

Sound very fair compared with the cost of an LGB one.
Paul.

Just to edit the post....one sold so only one of the 8 amp units left
 
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