Dismantling an LGB Stainz 2020 motor block

GAP

GAP

G Scale Model Trains, 1:1 Sugar Cane Trains
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Does anybody have some instructions on how to get into the LGB Stainz 2020 motor block?

I think it is the one commonly called the "clam shell" as it seems to split in half compared to the other ones I have.

I have taken every visible screw out of it bit it will not separate.

I want to get at the motor terminals and take out the non effective track pick ups.
 
You probably know this but...

Have you taken the wheels off the axles, as there a screws hidden behind the wheels.

Watch out for those tiny Ball Bearings on the ends of the worm gear drive shafts.
 
Thank You

The old screws behind the wheels trick, gets the newbies every time.

It is now in bits on its way to a bath and a re-grease, the ball bearings are securely attached to a magnet.
 
Paul M said:
Was that wise, won't the bearings become slightly magnetised?
Click to expand...

I really can't see any problems arising if they were they are in a recess that the end of a shaft sits into.
There shouldn't be any drag as there is such a small surface area of contact between the bearing and the shaft end plus they will be packed in grease in a fairly sealed environment.
 
This video may help. The creator if this video had to split the motor block first.
 
GAP said:
Does anybody have some instructions on how to get into the LGB Stainz 2020 motor block?

I think it is the one commonly called the "clam shell" as it seems to split in half compared to the other ones I have.

I have taken every visible screw out of it bit it will not separate.

I want to get at the motor terminals and take out the non effective track pick ups.
Click to expand...
Have a look at this thread where I gave a few tips as did others, watch out for those thrust bearings.

www.gscalecentral.net

Help needed

Some time ago, on this forum, I read about some converting a LGB Stanz to something more British. Unfortunately I cannot find any reference to it. I was sure it was on Rik's Peckforton blog, but I can't find it their either. Can anyone help?
www.gscalecentral.net www.gscalecentral.net
 
In the thread linked PhilP stated this;

"You will need to take wheels and motion off-of one side, to get into the block..
Give things a good-hard-stare, before you start. Choose the wrong side to take everything off, and you will be cussin' and mutterin' under your breath. Been there, and done it. More than once, unfortunately. "

Phil can you please elaborate I have totally dismantled and gutted this thing, I took all the wheels off first, then removed the screw followed by removal of the axles and motor to do a thorough clean prior to a re grease.
Am I now faced with an orientation problem upon re assembly that could lead to its consignment to the bin?
 
Which bit is giving you trouble?

The motor should only go into the block one way up, and there is a 'pip' for alignment..
The older motors need the thrust bearings.. If you fit a new motor, these are not needed. - Beware of dropping one of these near the motor!! They have a nasty habit of ending-up inside the motor casing. Impossible to get out, without taking the motor apart. :(

I have a bit of grass to cut (before the rain starts) but will then open one up..

PhilP.
 
PhilP said:
Which bit is giving you trouble?

The motor should only go into the block one way up, and there is a 'pip' for alignment..
The older motors need the thrust bearings.. If you fit a new motor, these are not needed. - Beware of dropping one of these near the motor!! They have a nasty habit of ending-up inside the motor casing. Impossible to get out, without taking the motor apart. :(

I have a bit of grass to cut (before the rain starts) but will then open one up..

PhilP.
Click to expand...

I was thinking of the wheel orientation on the axles but if it is only the motor ball bearings I will be extremely careful.
Not sure if it an old motor or a new one it has a red side and a black side (as per video in link) with the brushes exposed and the shaft does not appear to reach the end of the recess.
I will put a bit of tape over the brush openings to stop the bearings leaping into them unless they need to be open for some reason.
 
Remove the tape, once you have the bearings in place.. - The motor will get warm, and the tape 'sticky' will go soft, ooze, and attract / hold muck.

The wheels are 'keyed' (well, a shaped cutout) .. i would build-up one side first, wheels and motion, then the other..
Look at the moulding in the wheel:
Right side..
DSC02278.JPG

Left side..
DSC02279.JPG

is that enough?
PhilP.
 
PhilP said:
Remove the tape, once you have the bearings in place.. - The motor will get warm, and the tape 'sticky' will go soft, ooze, and attract / hold muck.

The wheels are 'keyed' (well, a shaped cutout) .. i would build-up one side first, wheels and motion, then the other..
Look at the moulding in the wheel:
Right side..
View attachment 264545

Left side..
View attachment 264546

is that enough?
PhilP.
Click to expand...

Yes that should be enough for me to get myself into trouble.
I will hold the bearings in with grease and put a strip of paper down before I put the motor in, it should to cover the bottom opening then I can slide it out without disturbing anything. Tape on top is still an option.
 
GAP said:
Yes that should be enough for me to get myself into trouble.
I will hold the bearings in with grease and put a strip of paper down before I put the motor in, it should to cover the bottom opening then I can slide it out without disturbing anything. Tape on top is still an option.
Click to expand...
I recently took apart a similar motor and to ensure that the motor went back in correct way just wrote Top on it with a permanent marker.
 
It's all back together and is working as advertised.

For the ball bearings I put a dab of grease in the slot and to pick it up I put a dab on some tweezers then just pushed it into the greased slot all while holding my breath.

Phil's suggestion about fitting the wheels to one side and to look for the little tab (which ensured that the motor only went in one way) worked wonders.

While putting it together I had a feeling of De Ja Vu and it wasn't till I looked at another mechanism for quartering orientation that I realized that I had done this all before years ago.

Thanks to all.
 
I got all brave and took the other one apart (it is marked 2010) to run wires directly to the motor and while there I removed all the brass contacts and removed the rear weight and holder..

One thing I did notice that there is a small symbol on one side of the block behind the rear wheel, if this is up then the small locating tab for the motor is on the other half of the clam shell.
It helps with the orientation of the motor ie the negative side (black plastic)of the motor is upwards when the two halves are separated, but more importantly it indicates that the recesses holding the ball bearings are in the other half of the block.

It may help to put this in the memory bank if anyone tries to dismantle one of these things.

Also I must mention that aligning the weights on the wheels helps with quartering and making sure the connecting rods don't bind the movement (do not ask how I found this out, I shoud have thought of it).


Pictures of symbol

P1050619.JPG

P1050620.JPG
 
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