Dismantling a Piko 204?

CoggesRailway

Registered
Hi, has anyone had one of these apart? Any pointers. I will shortly be adding RC- it looks like there would be plenty of room? Cheers, Ian
 
Found this on the web via a Goggles search Ian;

http://www.gscalenews.com/pdf/piko-g/37540m.pdf

Although it's for a Harz Kamel, it is essentially the same loco....
 
Ian,

I'd PM'd you in response to yours before I saw this. Easy, four screws (from memory of a couple of weeks ago, I'm at work) and body tabs on the ends and sides. The electrics disconnect from a central terminator strip, the functions of each wire (which are pretty self explanatory anyway, apart from possible confusion between the pickups and the motor leads) is amongst the exploded diagrams in the "handbook". The lights simply unplug from the body. The buffer beam unscrews with two screws each. The cab comes away from the body with tabs which are a bit fiddly but not too hard - while it shouldn't be overdone is does need firm handling, and it then lifts off vertically on what are, effectively, rails. Windows push out (being careful of the wipers) and the sidescreens by the drivers position also unplug (as do the side overhangs of the roof) and the cab interior just pulls out - I took this all the way apart as I am repainting mine. Afraid I haven't removed or disassembled the bogies so can't help there.

Steve
 
Things to watch out for are the Rain Strips to to the edge of each Cab. The small Driver Windows each side and the Hand Poles at each edge. These easily get Lost and the Poles can be easily broken off. Mine currently has 3 replacement Poles made out of large Household Domestic Pins. I think one of the small driver Windows is missing too. Suggest that you find a nice Box to put all the bits in as well. Surprising how they disappear on the workbench.
JonD
 
dunnyrail said:
Suggest that you find a nice Box to put all the bits in as well. Surprising how they disappear on the workbench.
JonD

Entirely agree! - Guess how I know. Although I haven't actually lost any, my knees are sore and my eyesight is now failing.....

The good thing about converting to battery is that it matters not if the wheels are dirty; in fact that improves adhesion. And, of course, there is no added corrosion from sparking between the wheels and the track.
 
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