Decoder Testers, Which One?

Lez2000

Lez2000

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I'm after a bit of advice please. I'm looking for a reasonably priced decoder tester and so far have come across these:
Zimo MXTAPV and the ESU 53900.

There is quite a difference in price between them (Zimo almost double) but is the higher cost justified?
I'm assuming these are capable of testing any manufacturers decoders?

I would be very interested to hear your thoughts and experiences.
Thank you,
Les.
 
Lez2000 said:
I'm after a bit of advice please. I'm looking for a reasonably priced decoder tester and so far have come across these:
Zimo MXTAPV and the ESU 53900.

There is quite a difference in price between them (Zimo almost double) but is the higher cost justified?
I'm assuming these are capable of testing any manufacturers decoders?

I would be very interested to hear your thoughts and experiences.
Thank you,
Les.
Click to expand...
This is my decoder tester a cheep Playmobil Chassis adapted to allow a decoder to be wired into it before installing in a proper loco. Make sure you put the decoder in an attached wagon, you can easily trash one if it inadvertently touches the track. Testing can be with the chassis on blocks, rolling road or even on the line. My preference is off the track and have crock clips connected to the skates and rail to get a perfect connection.
6783B7FA-312F-487F-9CBA-AC5EA75F5AAC.jpeg
 
dunnyrail said:
This is my decoder tester a cheep Playmobil Chassis adapted to allow a decoder to be wired into it before installing in a proper loco. Make sure you put the decoder in an attached wagon, you can easily trash one if it inadvertently touches the track. Testing can be with the chassis on blocks, rolling road or even on the line. My preference is off the track and have crock clips connected to the skates and rail to get a perfect connection.
View attachment 272646
Click to expand...
I like that, it's certainly cheap but as I've only been 'playing' with G scale for a short while I don't have any spare chassis lying around to use as a test bed. Thank you, Les.
 
I test on the loco to be installed-in..
I have invested in a three-foot length of track, and a decent set of rolling roads.

I take the testing all the way from the loco coming to be converted:

1. run loco on analogue. - Bench supply, with voltage and current meters. This shows how healthy the loco / motor(s) are. What works, and what does not, before you start..

2. Check continuity ('beep' on a meter) along each-side of the loco; wheels, and skates.. Perhaps clean the backs of the wheels?

3. Having opened the loco; Track and motor(s) ONLY.. Then run the loco.

4. Set dividers for the lights / swap to LED (with series resistors). Connect and test.

5. Any other accessories? - Connect and test.

Put loco back together, test, then write-up documentation.. Clear bench, bagging-up any parts removed, with a label for date, and loco-type.

PhilP.
 
PhilP said:
I test on the loco to be installed-in..
I have invested in a three-foot length of track, and a decent set of rolling roads.

I take the testing all the way from the loco coming to be converted:

1. run loco on analogue. - Bench supply, with voltage and current meters. This shows how healthy the loco / motor(s) are. What works, and what does not, before you start..

2. Check continuity ('beep' on a meter) along each-side of the loco; wheels, and skates.. Perhaps clean the backs of the wheels?

3. Having opened the loco; Track and motor(s) ONLY.. Then run the loco.

4. Set dividers for the lights / swap to LED (with series resistors). Connect and test.

5. Any other accessories? - Connect and test.

Put loco back together, test, then write-up documentation.. Clear bench, bagging-up any parts removed, with a label for date, and loco-type.

PhilP.
Click to expand...
Good list Phil. At what stage do you fit the decoder, before step 1 or 3? Also I would always try to read decoder address in service mode/ programming track mode first before applying track voltage to make sure there are no accidental short circuits.
 
I don't 'talk' to the decoder until I have 'track and motor' connected. - All this is done on a programming track, away from anything else..
Aside: I use a Digitrax unit, as it supplies less current, and a lower track-voltage. - Doing this, I have never 'blown' a decoder, whilst programming / installing. :angel:

If a sound decoder, then as I tend to get them 'blank', I will have used a PC interface, to load the sound files and may well have set address, speed-steps etc. at that point.

What I did forget to mention:
On many decoders, there is a programming lock available. I would also set this to 'locked', as the final step.

PhilP.
 
Zerogee said:
Nice simple setup there, does the job as you say!

If I ever got round to making one for my own use, I'd probably add a speaker for testing sound decoders, and maybe some lamps and/or LEDs for testing the lighting outputs.

Jon.
Click to expand...
The decoders you are testing for sound would need the speaker connected direct to the decoder. But no problem to have one mounted on that neat little board for that purpose complete with sound box made from a bit of big roll tube and a top of cardboard. Perhaps with a couple of holes in the too.
 
PhilP said:
I don't 'talk' to the decoder until I have 'track and motor' connected. - All this is done on a programming track, away from anything else..
Aside: I use a Digitrax unit, as it supplies less current, and a lower track-voltage. - Doing this, I have never 'blown' a decoder, whilst programming / installing. :angel:

If a sound decoder, then as I tend to get them 'blank', I will have used a PC interface, to load the sound files and may well have set address, speed-steps etc. at that point.

What I did forget to mention:
On many decoders, there is a programming lock available. I would also set this to 'locked', as the final step.

PhilP.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your fairly comprehensive list Phil, especially the bit about the programming lock. I wasn't aware decoders had them!

Regarding the home-brew testers, I hadn't even thought about making one although 'The Shed's' test setup which includes a motor for loading purposes looks achievable.
Thanks for taking the trouble to respond.

Les.
 
Last edited:
I would add that if you are 'standardising' on a particular make of decoder, and that manufacturer makes a tester, then I would suggest the decision is made for you.. :nerd::)

These 'testers' show functionality, but a little motor, with no load on it, doesn't 'test' (as-in stress) the decoders electronics. - I do not know of one that does present 'real-world' loads to the decoder outputs.


I have a couple of motors, speakers, LED's with a big-gish resistor (glows and survives full-track), plus a motley selection of leads with differing connectors..
But then, I am dealing with many makes, DC, DCC, Battery, Sound (DCC and analogue) and radio control, so am not a 'typical' end-user.. :nerd::nerd:

PhilP.
 
PhilP said:
I would add that if you are 'standardising' on a particular make of decoder, and that manufacturer makes a tester, then I would suggest the decision is made for you.. :nerd::)

These 'testers' show functionality, but a little motor, with no load on it, doesn't 'test' (as-in stress) the decoders electronics. - I do not know of one that does present 'real-world' loads to the decoder outputs.


I have a couple of motors, speakers, LED's with a big-gish resistor (glows and survives full-track), plus a motley selection of leads with differing connectors..
But then, I am dealing with many makes, DC, DCC, Battery, Sound (DCC and analogue) and radio control, so am not a 'typical' end-user.. :nerd::nerd:

PhilP.
Click to expand...
I haven't settled on one make of decoder yet although I'm leaning towards Zimo. Your suggestion of testing in the loco it'll be installed in makes perfect sense when you think of the motor loading under actual running conditions.

Regards & thanks.
Les.
 
I do like the Shed, although I have lights too, and speakers built in. Also besides wires for the decoder connections, I use decoders that match the "Aristo" socket, used by several manufacturers.

Below is one that just does the motor and sound:
bench_power2.JPG

That is the top to a spray paint can that the speaker sits in. In this case there are several connectors that support various sockets on decoders and loose wires. The green socket supports the Aristo socket... A manufacturer-specific programmer is at the rear.

Below is my more fancy setup:
DSC01409.JPG

this has 2 speakers (some of the decoders I use have 2 separate sound amps), buttons to simulate chuff switch, and lots of LEDs to test lighting outputs.

There are wires on headers that can go into screw terminals... this is all built in an old cigar box... a programmer is inside too, you can see a power jack and a USB port in the center between the speakers.

I'd build one, buying one normally makes it too specific to a particular brand, and it seems costly to me.

Greg
 
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