Dcc recommendations

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Gtarling

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Having recently acquired two DCC fitted locos due to a 'finger slip', I think I need to invest in some DCC equipment in order to get the best from the locos. I'm looking for a system which above all must be straightforward to use, as I have Parkinson's and find that my brain processing power simply isn't what it used to be. I can't see me ever needing or wanting to run more than two locos at once, so a unit capable of around 5 Amps should be OK. Please let me have your thoughts on which might be the best system for me - I'd prefer not to have to spend vast amounts on a system, but cost isn't a major factor if it allows me to buy the right system. Thanks!

Gordon
 
Gtarling said:
Having recently acquired two DCC fitted locos due to a 'finger slip', I think I need to invest in some DCC equipment in order to get the best from the locos. I'm looking for a system which above all must be straightforward to use, as I have Parkinson's and find that my brain processing power simply isn't what it used to be. I can't see me ever needing or wanting to run more than two locos at once, so a unit capable of around 5 Amps should be OK. Please let me have your thoughts on which might be the best system for me - I'd prefer not to have to spend vast amounts on a system, but cost isn't a major factor if it allows me to buy the right system. Thanks!

Gordon
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There are many systems out there but I would certainly think that one that has a Smartphone for control may not be the best for you in view of your issues. Certainly a good handset with twidly knob may be your best bet which puts Massoth or Piko in the frame, they have similar handsets. You may get lucky and ba able to get a second hand Massoth system x Garden Railway Specialists, Massoth make a pretty robust system. But others will advise other systems, all have their merits and problems.
 
I also agree a controller with a knob and physical buttons is probably best for your situation. You should also consider systems that can use the Roco Z21 Multimaus as a hand controller such as those by MD Maxion and Zimo in addition to the Massoth and Piko sytems already mentioned.
 
Gtarling said:
I'm looking for a system which above all must be straightforward to use,
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The PIKO G Scale DCC kit is quite straightforward to set up and use. The basic set up uses a 5 Amp supply, with additional boosters available if needed

It is made by Massoth, so is backward compatible with LGB MTS, and if you become interested in doing more with DCC you can readily add Massoth components.

See here for PIKO G Scale DCC brochure.... https://wgrr.ca/assets/images/99330_G_Digital_Flyer.pdf
 
Gavin Sowry said:
Honestly, if DCC is going to be a problem for you, then get rid of the problem. Sell off the locos, or get someone to take out the DCC for you.
Just a suggestion.
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Only bought 1 loco that had DCC fitted, and I removed it rather than move to DCC, sold the chip on, and recovered part of the cost making the loco a good bargain.
 
$64 million question. What are the locos you have bought and are their DCC cards factory fitted or aftermarket products ? Another option may still be to operate them in DC mode until you decide how you want to develop your line. I have a late model Bachmann 1:20.3 scale Spectrum Climax with a factory fitted DCC/sound card, yet it will happily run on DC, even with its chuff and idle sounds functioning. You will only have a limited number of features that will still operate, possibly only speed control. I can do the same with my DCC/sound fitted 009 1:76 scale double Fairley, and again it still chuffs.

As Gavin says you can usually take out the DCC card and just run DC, although, as mentioned you may need to get a knowledgable person rewire the loco if you do not have the skills...or just ask on this forum ! I bought an LGB track cleaner loco a number of years ago fitted with their MTS DCC system (didn't check before buying). I run(ran) DC at the time (Crest Train Engineer, now augmented by battery/DCC/RC and live steam) it ran fine with the card removed and loco rewired. I retained the card so the loco could be sold on with it, why cut your market potential ;) Max

P.S. You can pretty much migrate backwards and forwards through most of the operational methods outlined with most electric motor driven locos - track power DC or DCC, on board battery power with or without RC, DC or DCC. In some cases a maker produces both electric and a live steam versions of the same loco using most of the same tooling, but they are not really practical to switch power methods :D . With some these mode of operation changes are made easy, some not so. That is what I have been doing.
 
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Thanks for all the suggestions chaps, it's given me a lot to think about. I have to agree that positive train control via a touch screen is not for everyone and not something I would even consider. Whilst the Massoth system is no doubt a good one, I can't help feeling that it's quite pricey for what it offers. I've considered the Dijikeijs system, which appears to be quite user friendly and would probably suit my requirements even though I'd need to add some sort of handheld controller and possibly a booster. However, i'm currently considering the ESU ECos system, which appears to cover most of my requirements and which allows the addition of some sort of wireless handset at a later date = I'd be interested in hearing opinions of this system.

FWIW, the two locos I currently own which are DCC equipped are a Bachmann 2 truck Climax and a Piko #38231 2-6-0 Mogul. If I can get these two operating satisfactorally, then I shall consider getting some of my other locos converted to DCC, the LGB Stainz being first on the list.

Gordon
 
DCC is a lot of fun, and allows customization of the sounds and operation.

being a standard, you can choose DCC decoders based on the features you want without changing the rest of your system.

You also don't worry about enough power to run the smoke units if you fancy them, since your power source is immediate and never runs out.

Greg
 
I do have a massoth 1200Z central station with a wireless transmitter (handset) and wireless receiver which I am going to list on the forum shortly.
The 1200Z is the all in-one-box (central station and power-supply) the newer version is a two box system created because EU standards law states that a mains transformer should be separate from a control unit (central station) that may be used by a child so Massoth split the 1200Z into two independent sections.
 
beavercreek said:
EU standards law states that a mains transformer should be separate from a control unit (central station) that may be used by a child so Massoth split the 1200Z into two independent sections.
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Sounds like someone got bored one day, I suppose there's a good reso for having extra cables trailing about
 
Greg - thanks for replying - it's clear to me that every method of control has its pros and cons and you just have to find what suits you best. I started out with the intention of only using battery powered R/C, but soon discovered that, too, has its cons, so will be adding DCC to my stable now.

Mike - Thanks, I could be interested in what you'll be selling, so please PM me with pricing etc. Thanks!

Gordon
 
Gordon, I watch the "shifts" in user's and the one shift has been to using DCC decoders in battery power, since there are many to choose, and the "free" sound libraries already developed for the smaller scales.

As more people want sound, it will become all DCC, since the same library can be used for any scale decoder.

The companies at risk are the ones that make sound systems that cannot cover multiple scales, they just do not have the sales volume to keep up with the larger companies and invest in more and better sounds.

There will always be a contingent of customers that will be happy with a limited/static offering of features, but it's not growing. Just like cars, we get new features, maybe not ones we wanted or thought of, but a few years later they are required...

Greg
 
When incorporating a DCC card for sound+R/C+battery operation it sometimes appears an "expensive" option compared to a simple DC option. However, what some people forget (like I did initially) is that a DCC sound card will usually have built in an electronic speed controller (ESC), due to the nature of how DCC operates. So the usual equation TX (cost can be shared between locos if the right type) + RX + ESC + Sound card + Battery pack & sundries is skewed by the RX & ESC (RX+ESC) being combined in the DCC option. Plus you get a whole load more operable sound features than a conventional sound card, if you want them.

I have a 2nd hand Bachmann 2 truck Shay, that came fitted with an ESU V3.5 DCC sound card, that had come from a line where it was track powered in full DCC mode. To switch to battery operation the installed card could retained with only the need for a DCC RX and lead to a battery wagon (it's a bit cramped in the 2 truck for a load of AA NiMH's).to be added. So you can start DCC track powered and move over to battery operation with "minimal" costs. Max
 
maxi-model said:
When incorporating a DCC card for sound+R/C+battery operation it sometimes appears an "expensive" option compared to a simple DC option. However, what some people forget (like I did initially) is that a DCC sound card will usually have built in an electronic speed controller (ESC), due to the nature of how DCC operates. So the usual equation TX (cost can be shared between locos if the right type) + RX + ESC + Sound card + Battery pack & sundries is skewed by the RX & ESC (RX+ESC) being combined in the DCC option. Plus you get a whole load more operable sound features than a conventional sound card, if you want them.

I have a 2nd hand Bachmann 2 truck Shay, that came fitted with an ESU V3.5 DCC sound card, that had come from a line where it was track powered in full DCC mode. To switch to battery operation the installed card could retained with only the need for a DCC RX and lead to a battery wagon (it's a bit cramped in the 2 truck for a load of AA NiMH's).to be added. So you can start DCC track powered and move over to battery operation with "minimal" costs. Max
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1st para. That is indeed true Max and I have 4 or 5 battery DCC G scale conversions in my fleet. I also have 1 Gauge 1 DCC battery conversion, a real task stuffing all the gear in. It did work out an expensive option as I had 2 buy the DCC sound chip as well, but very worth the cost and effort as it does sound great plus of course no worries of pick up on a small Brighton Terrier loco.
 
Just wanted to make one suggestion: given you have Bachman and Piko locomotives I would suggest you get a system that allows you to control the output voltage, since it’s been my experience that the cheap decoders they use are not able to handle full (say 22-24V) to the track. On my Massoth system I had to turn it down to about 19V at the track (using RMS meter) in order to stop Piko locos from acting up.
Keith
 
Keith/Greg - Thanks for the info - I'd already figured that having adjustable track voltage was a good thing, but not for the reasons that you state. All the systems that I've considered so far do have adjustable track voltage, so no worries there. If a loco will run OK on (say) 19 Volts, then why is up to 24V necessary? Maybe some decoders don't like the 19V?

Gordon
 
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