DC sounds for my White Pass Mike?

tac foley

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I've been trying to find out some details of the sound units used by a number of posters here and in Europe when replacing the rather odd-sounding LGB unit in my original Mike.

Train Wheel Vehicle Nature Steam engine



They mostly talk about the ESU brand, but fail to offer any details.

Y'see, my main problem is that I don't have any kind of DCC, as I share the track with a group of Gauge 1 live-steamers who eschew such fakery.

So, it would have to be DC analogue, like the Sierra and Phoenix sounds systems I have in other Fn3 models.

Your advice would be much appreciated.
 
Many DCC sound decoders will run on DC.
Most can also be made to allow you to trigger sounds using track magnets.

Sound can be synchronised to wheel rotation.

Will you be able to use power from the track, or will you require battery radio control?

PhilP
 
Many DCC sound decoders will run on DC.
Most can also be made to allow you to trigger sounds using track magnets.

Sound can be synchronised to wheel rotation.

Will you be able to use power from the track, or will you require battery radio control?

PhilP

Right now I'm happy with track power - fnurgling around with a collector piece model - ie, converting it to battery with all that entails, is not on the cards.
 
A low cost option is the latest MyLocoSound Premium US Steam soundcard. I just watched some YouTube videos of White Pass 73 and can get a good match with this soundcard by selecting whistle number 4, bell number 2 and the heavy chuff. You also get the benefits of easy adjustments using a TV remote control and lots of other sounds like injectors, safety valve, "All aboard",coal shovelling, brake squeal, rod clank and drain cocks. All for just US$99 in the USA or £79 in the UK. It can be purchased through www.mylocosound.com.

Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound
 
I can fully confirm the MLS system having put one in an LGB USA Mallet, I was able to get 4 chuffs to the resolution with relative ease. Look at ge_rik ge_rik ’s site to see how to update the card to suit your needs. Somewhere in here I wrote it up but struggling to find posts. Will update if I find as there is a YT vid of the beast, this was done quite a few years ago now so current sounds improved.
 
I can fully confirm the MLS system having put one in an LGB USA Mallet, I was able to get 4 chuffs to the resolution with relative ease. Look at ge_rik ge_rik ’s site to see how to update the card to suit your needs. Somewhere in here I wrote it up but struggling to find posts. Will update if I find as there is a YT vid of the beast, this was done quite a few years ago now so current sounds improved.
Correct. We used to use synthesised sounds but now, with much more memory capacity, all sounds are recorded on the actual locos.

Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound
 
I've been trying to find out some details of the sound units used by a number of posters here and in Europe when replacing the rather odd-sounding LGB unit in my original Mike.

Train Wheel Vehicle Nature Steam engine



They mostly talk about the ESU brand, but fail to offer any details.

Y'see, my main problem is that I don't have any kind of DCC, as I share the track with a group of Gauge 1 live-steamers who eschew such fakery.

So, it would have to be DC analogue, like the Sierra and Phoenix sounds systems I have in other Fn3 models.

Your advice would be much appreciated.
Just a comment on ESU: I install and sell ESU DCC Sound Decoders for LGB locomotives and they have Outstanding Sound Quality and Features (most 30 F Keys control) and also work in DC analog, but for American sound files at least, the Reed Switch function doesn't work well.........so not good for a DC powered hobbyists. I also install and sell Soundtraxx Tsunami2 DCC Sound Decoders for LGB/G Scale and they have excellent sound quality, but for DC analog operation about 15 CVs must be programmed for the automatic sounds since they have no Reed Switch function. Massoth DCC Decoders can also be used in DC Analog and most have good sound quality and good Reed Switch function. The new Phoenix Sound's PB22 also has excellent sound quality with full function DC analog operation (and DCC) and only requires wiring to track power, unlike most DCC sound decoders which require writing to a 4-pin locomotive motor block. You can adjust all the individual sound volumes, the chuff rates, echo sounds, etc, by using the Phoenix Computer Interface Kit's USB cable connected to your Windows PC and the decoder (cost about $85 USA). I like the Phoenix boards as my best option when I do an LGB locomotive sound conversion for a hobbyist who only operates in DC analog power, but they Phoenix boards were not available for the last 3 years or so until April of this year........so Phoenix is back in business at least for their new PB22 boards.
 
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Just a comment on ESU: I install and sell ESU DCC Sound Decoders for LGB locomotives and they have Outstanding Sound Quality and Features (most 30 F Keys control) and also work in DCC analog, but for American sound files at least, the Reed Switch function doesn't work well.........so not good for a DC powered hobbyists. I also install and sell Soundtraxx Tsunami2 DCC Sound Decoders for LGB/G Scale and they have excellent sound quality, but for DC analog operation about 15 CVs must be programmed for the automatic sounds since they have no Reed Switch function. Massoth DCC Decoders can also be used in DC Analog and most have good sound quality and good Reed Switch function. The new Phoenix Sound's PB22 also has excellent sound quality with full function DC analog operation (and DCC) and only requires wiring to track power, unlike most DCC sound decoders. You can adjust all the individual sound volumes, the chuff rates, echo sounds, etc, by using the Phoenix Computer Interface Kit's USB cable connected to your Windows PC and the decoder (cost about $85 USA). I like the Phoenix boards as my best option when I do an LGB locomotive sound conversion for a hobbyist who only operates in DC analog power, but they Phoenix boards were not available for the last 3 years or so until April of this year........so Phoenix is back in business at least for their new PB22 boards.

Many thanks for an outstandingly informative post with lots of detail! I may have mentioned that the track I run on is not mine, so I can't futz around with anything that requires attaching any extra wiring to it. So although it all seemed like it was an easy fix, instead it looks like I'm screwed. :(
 
Tac,
If you are using reedswitches on the loco, you just need to drop a few magnets around the track..

You can keep them in place by gluing them to thin strips of plastic. - Slip under adjacent sleepers.

If conditions are dry, you can even use BLUTAC!
:devil:

PhilP
 
Tac,
If you are using reedswitches on the loco, you just need to drop a few magnets around the track..

You can keep them in place by gluing them to thin strips of plastic. - Slip under adjacent sleepers.

If conditions are dry, you can even use BLUTAC!
:devil:

PhilP

I DO use two magnets at appropriate locations, but that it. Although the loco is fitted with MTS, that would involve the necessary hook-up, and no-one else could share the track - it is around 100 yards long run, and can easily accommodate a couple of trains - one on track power, the other on battery RC.
 
I DO use two magnets at appropriate locations, but that it. Although the loco is fitted with MTS, that would involve the necessary hook-up, and no-one else could share the track - it is around 100 yards long run, and can easily accommodate a couple of trains - one on track power, the other on battery RC.
Well if you were running on track-power, a battery RC could also be on track.

PhilP
 
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