Cutting stone

Eaglecliff

Eaglecliff

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In order to build my raised trackwork I can, and from time to time do, cut rockery stone (usually local sandstone of varying consistencies) using a bolster (cold chisel for cutting house bricks) and a one-and-a-half pound hammer. This is fine for rough work but does not guarantee a precise edge with sufficient accuracy when necessary. I am wondering if my very heavy angle grinder would do the trick, or is there a type of handsaw or hacksaw blade which would not be blunted within the first few stokes?
 
You can use an angle grinder..

Holding the stone for cutting can be a problem. - Nearly every builder 'just puts his boot on the rock' but that is not really the way to do it..

If you are cutting smaller rocks, and not too many of them:

www.toolstation.com

Tungsten Carbide Grit Hacksaw 300mm

For cutting ceramic tiles, marble, fibreglass, thermalite block, brick, plastic, slate, and clay pipe.
www.toolstation.com www.toolstation.com
 
PhilP said:
You can use an angle grinder..

Holding the stone for cutting can be a problem. - Nearly every builder 'just puts his boot on the rock' but that is not really the way to do it..

If you are cutting smaller rocks, and not too many of them:

www.toolstation.com

Tungsten Carbide Grit Hacksaw 300mm

For cutting ceramic tiles, marble, fibreglass, thermalite block, brick, plastic, slate, and clay pipe.
www.toolstation.com www.toolstation.com
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Hi Phil,
I’ll see what B&Q - or Screwfix - have to offer. Holding my angle grinder is tricky, but I do wear steel-capped boots...
P.S. By LNWR to London yesterday from Tamworth... scruffy train, no refreshments, no staff on board, return journey delayed by attempted suicide at Northampton...
 
You can get Hacksaw blades which cut stone. Called Abberfile ( spelling ? ) They are round not flat. Used to cut shapes in tiles and bricks .
 
Abrafile, also known as rod saw blades, but it waould take some time to cut. This morning I cut through slate about 30mm thick and 200mm long with a 41/2" stone cutter and still took over 15 mins with a blade change, some rocks are very hard when cutting!!
 
Eaglecliff said:
Hi Phil,
I’ll see what B&Q - or Screwfix - have to offer. Holding my angle grinder is tricky, but I do wear steel-capped boots...
P.S. By LNWR to London yesterday from Tamworth... scruffy train, no refreshments, no staff on board, return journey delayed by attempted suicide at Northampton...
Click to expand...
I would think that using a Saw would be a much harder and protracted job that using an Angle Grinder, however these things need to be treated with great care and the use of a Mask, Safety Goggles and Ear Muffs obligatory if you value yourself.
 
I agree with JonD using an angle grinder is likely to be quickest. But take utmost safety precautions, steel boots, goggles, face mask and if possible to somehow get a spray of water over your work to keep dust down and keep the blade cool. I think someone in this forum told me of a blade overheating and shattering which doesn't bear thinking about. Don't stand on the stone you are cutting, half bury it in sharp sand or similar or wedge it in an old pallet. You don't want it moving while you are cutting it. However if you can bear sawing do that, using a hand held angle grinder is a last resort.
 
I use a 7-1/4" wet/dry diamond blade similar to what Greg shows in a Skil-Saw. I cut the concrete wall stones I've been using on my RR with it when I need a special shape. I also have a 4" angle grinder blade I've used for "finer" cuts.

Diamond blades - 1.jpg Diamond blades - 1 _1_.jpg

The Skil-Saw will not cut completely through the blocks I'm using. I cut two sides then tap the block with a hammer. The remaining web that's a bit less than two inches thick breaks easily and fairly cleanly.

The blades were not that expensive. I got the 7-1/4" blade at Harbor Freight, a inexpensive mostly made in China tool outlet in the US for less than $15. The angle grinder blade was purchased at Home Depot and cost about $10.

(The GOOP in the Skil-Saw photo is left from re-gluing the soles of my golf shoes which started to give me a lot of lip. It worked great.)
 
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Thanks everyone. I’ll grit my teeth (sorry, old rock-climbers’ joke) and see what I can do. Fortunately I’m hoping not to have to do very much, just create a couple of straight edges here and there.
 
I suppose it depends on the type of sandstone, but I have found I can cleave our local sandstone with a hammer and brick bolster, in a similar way that quarrymen split slate. The results aren't always predictable, but I usually get two or three sandstone blocks for the price of one, particularly when I want to use them for cladding.

Rik
 
Indeed. Over the years I’ve acquired various types of the stuff, which was very popular for garden rockeries a few decades ago. I’ve just had one block (not a right angle, straight edge or flat surface to it) which split beautifully into three slices, and another which was a very fragile consistency, just turned into lumps and a lot of coarse grit. (oh, Derbyshire’s gritstone edges - happy days! Only ever fell off once - from dolomitic limestone, dreadful stuff - a piece broke off in my hand as I put my weight on it and I dropped about a yard, landed standing upright - threw the lump away, started again. Can’t do it any more, my insurers expressly forbid it...)
 
Dig a suitably sized hole, so that the rock doesn't rock. Carefully water mist the lower half of the blade whilst cutting because drifting dust does upset neighbours. However, only with large grinder; the 4.5" grinder is too small for water mist. A cardboard box with clingfilm on top gives a view of the cut & traps most dust. As always, take great care.
 
Perry said:
Dig a suitably sized hole, so that the rock doesn't rock. Carefully water mist the lower half of the blade whilst cutting because drifting dust does upset neighbours. However, only with large grinder; the 4.5" grinder is too small for water mist. A cardboard box with clingfilm on top gives a view of the cut & traps most dust. As always, take great care.
Click to expand...
Sounds complicated... so far, managed with bolster and hammer...
 
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