Couplings

[Mike Bett]

I have a rake of 3 LGB 30730 passenger cars and one combine 31710 which I run with my 23851 Mallet, all with standard LGB couplings. I am experiencing fairly frequent involuantry uncouplings whilst running.
Any suggestions for a cure, might knuckle couplings be a possible answer?

 

[yb281]

I have a rake of 3 LGB 30730 passenger cars and one combine 31710 which I run with my 23851 Mallet, all with standard LGB couplings. I am experiencing fairly frequent involuantry uncouplings whilst running.
Any suggestions for a cure, might knuckle couplings be a possible answer?

Are your couplings still standard Mike - ie only one coupling hook per pair of couplings? Adding a second hook usually makes them pretty much 100% reliable. Does also mean they're not as easy to uncouple when needed though.

 

[Mike Bett]

Thanks, sounds like a good and reasonably cheap way to solve the problem.

 

[yb281]

Thanks, sounds like a good and reasonably cheap way to solve the problem.

Extra hooks and springs are available as an LGB spare from most stockists ........... or you might find some kind soul on here who has a couple of spares .

 

[Glengrant]

I have a rake of 3 LGB 30730 passenger cars and one combine 31710 which I run with my 23851 Mallet, all with standard LGB couplings. I am experiencing fairly frequent involuantry uncouplings whilst running.
Any suggestions for a cure, might knuckle couplings be a possible answer?

Mike here is this eternal problem. I decided to opt out of knuckles for this very reason, and go back, retrograde, I think, to the hooks. Two hooks I would say are better than knuckles. If your problems arise for the same reason as I have, that is track subsidence, two hooks will give you less trouble. Snag is, sometime getting hooks in place of knuckles on some locos is very tricky. I have been trying for two days to get a US Trains loco changed from knuckle to hook, and I just cannot get a suitable conversion. I am going to try to run the loco with the loop only, and hope for the best. I have read in this forum of people who have rakes permanent coupled use string wire and so on. I must say though that I have little or no problem with my small LGB locos and typical rolling stock, it's the big stuff where the problems arise

 

[yb281]

I have a rake of 3 LGB 30730 passenger cars and one combine 31710 which I run with my 23851 Mallet, all with standard LGB couplings. I am experiencing fairly frequent involuantry uncouplings whilst running.
Any suggestions for a cure, might knuckle couplings be a possible answer?

Mike here is this eternal problem. I decided to opt out of knuckles for this very reason, and go back, retrograde, I think, to the hooks. Two hooks I would say are better than knuckles. If your problems arise for the same reason as I have, that is track subsidence, two hooks will give you less trouble. Snag is, sometime getting hooks in place of knuckles on some locos is very tricky. I have been trying for two days to get a US Trains loco changed from knuckle to hook, and I just cannot get a suitable conversion. I am going to try to run the loco with the loop only, and hope for the best. I have read in this forum of people who have rakes permanent coupled use string wire and so on. I must say though that I have little or no problem with my small LGB locos and typical rolling stock, it's the big stuff where the problems arise

Cyril, quick tip if you end up just having a loop on the loco with no hook - I'm not keen on having hooks on the front couplings of my locos, so I've made a sort of secondary loop out of thin wire that sits slightly lower than the standard loop. I've found that this is pretty much 100% reliable (superglued in place).

I can't find the pics of how I did it at the mo, but you should be able to see what I mean from this pic.

 

[Glengrant]

I
Cyril, quick tip if you end up just having a loop on the loco with no hook - I'm not keen on having hooks on the front couplings of my locos, so I've made a sort of secondary loop out of thin wire that sits slightly lower than the standard loop. I've found that this is pretty much 100% reliable (superglued in place).

I can't find the pics of how I did it at the mo, but you should be able to see what I mean from this pic.

Now that is a very interesting tip, I will have a look at this idea tomorrow, I certainly can see the possibilities. Much appreciated

 

[dunnyrail]

On my line and the Ruschbahn we have a solution for standard LGB Hook and Loops that is pretty well 100% reliable.

1st All Wagons and coaches are fitted with two hooks.
2nd All locomotives have LOOPS ONLY. These are then dropped by inserting a small piece of plasticard into the recess between the loop base and the bodywork (you need a hole for the skrew). This has the effect of lowering the hook so that it is always in tension.

Result as stated above 100% reliability, cost almost minimal as most LGB stock comes with a spare hook plus you can recover a few from your locomotives. Both the Ruschbahn and myself have to thank our good friend Doug Nichols for this cheep and effective solution.

Finally we use old and cheep bone handles knifes as uncouplers. Boot sales good hunting ground for these at cost of pennies.
JonD

 

[Rob s]

I have a rake of 3 LGB 30730 passenger cars and one combine 31710 which I run with my 23851 Mallet, all with standard LGB couplings. I am experiencing fairly frequent involuantry uncouplings whilst running.
Any suggestions for a cure, might knuckle couplings be a possible answer?

Its also worth looking at where they uncouple, :thinking:

I have had a few problems with some wagons where the hooks, the uncoupling end
actually hangs slightly lower and would occasionally catch on point cross tracks, and
other areas, where there were electrical boxes between the rails.

Simple cure was to heat the hook and gently bend the uncoupler ends up a few mill.

Also where they uncouple for no apparent reason check the track, sharp changes in gradient or dips can cause random uncoupling, especially on longer loco's, it's easy
enough to level out the track a little, and makes for better running any way.

 

[Dtsteam]

For no logical reason I can determine, the LGB couplings seem to be more reliable if the hook is on the rolling stock and the loop on the loco. Certainly the power uncoupling ramps are easier to use this way round.

 

[Gizzy]

I have hooks and loops on both ends of my stock.

Not only for reliability, but essential if you have an 'out and back' style of layout with reversing loops as I do.

I use a large plant label for uncoupling wagons; just push down and twist slightly. The pointy bit at the other end is useful for getting trapped ballast out of point mechanisms, as well as for prodding those mates who extract the Michael....

 

[Glengrant]

Lot of useful hints coming up here, will be working on these today, sun shining for some obscure reason. I also use the plant label, Giz, and to do the same jobs as you are, great minds eh? Who said that?

 

[trammayo]

I have hooks and loops on both ends of my stock.

Not only for reliability, but essential if you have an 'out and back' style of layout with reversing loops as I do.

I use a large plant label for uncoupling wagons; just push down and twist slightly. The pointy bit at the other end is useful for getting trapped ballast out of point mechanisms, as well as for prodding those mates who extract the Michael....

I've just had the Michael extracted - seven phials worth to be exact

Mick

 

[Gizzy]

I have hooks and loops on both ends of my stock.

Not only for reliability, but essential if you have an 'out and back' style of layout with reversing loops as I do.

I use a large plant label for uncoupling wagons; just push down and twist slightly. The pointy bit at the other end is useful for getting trapped ballast out of point mechanisms, as well as for prodding those mates who extract the Michael....

I've just had the Michael extracted - seven phials worth to be exact

Mick

Extracted using a pointy thing? Told you they were useful....

 

[dunnyrail]

Further tp my post No. 9. I thought that a few pictures may be of use to explain how we do things. I had also forgotten the thing about reverse loops, this system works well for these too.
JonD

1st pic shows how the hook is lowered somewhat. Note how this also moves the un-coupling dropper (to the right) up a bit, perhaps helping with some of those de-couplings caused by raised objects such as Track magnets.

Then here are a couple of the spacers with a coupling loop.

Finally here is a picture to show where the spacers go.

I have in some instances had to put two 30thou spacers in place. This may be where the LGB Coupler Mounting is a bit out on the model.

 

[dunnyrail]

oops sorry bad edit

 

[dunnyrail]

Steve, that is why I decided early on to settle for the LGB Type Hook and Loop. I have also predominantly settled for LGB Stock. However most vehicle types that use LGB Type need the hok and loop replacing for LGB. They just do not cut the mustard for reliable operation unless you do. So the odd Bachman, Aristo and dare I say it Newquid all have LGB replacements no matter how good they may appear to be.

I did try link and pin in the past, but found that one vehicle would bring a complete train off should it derail.
JonD

 

[The Devonian]

As my stock is Aristo-Craft and to a lesser degree Bachmann 'BigHauler', all stock has knuckle couplers.  Over a period of four years I have found that some Bachmann couplers developed a weakness and opened up whilst a train was on the move.  Not good.  :timeout:

I decided that all Bachmann stock would be converted to Aristo couplers making everything  coupling  compatible.  This was far simpler and less expensive than converting to Kaydee or another type of coupler.  I do have concerns with the 'tail' that is on Kaydee couplers as my track is at ground level and runs amongst bushes, trees and other plants.  Often twigs, leaves and thick petals fall on the permanent way and I feel could cause an uncoupling and wreck: that is why I have never considered them.   Aristo couplers are, in my experience, firm fitting, reliable and are easily opened even when the train is on the move.  Hook and loop spares, which come with most new stock, soon find a new home with a Euro modeler.

 

[Alec K]

Manual uncoupling of hook-and-loop systems, at whatever scale, can be frustrating. I'm fairly sure that someone on the former GSM site came up with this - it certainly isn't a creation of mine - but it works a treat:

Just an old credit/debit/membership card, spliced into a length of miniature dowel.

All the best,

Alec K
[Edit] Before rushing off, I should have added that the card is inserted vertically between the couplings, so that one or both of the hooks are depressed, then the card is twisted on the same axis to push the coupled vehicles apart. Apologies.