I want to convert a track powered Accucraft Earl to RC Battery. I'm ok with all the radio bits, wiring, connections etc. but wondered what batteries to use. I would prefer NiMH simply for charging reasons, but what voltage required? what is current draw from motor? likely run time? what physical size and where would they fit? Anyone done this recently?
Converting Accucraft Earl from track to battery power
- Thread starter My45G
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I don't know about the Earl but I have just converted an Accucraft Puffing Billy NA to battery/radio/sound. It uses a 24v motor because of the substantial weight. Therefore I used two ten cell NiMh batteries in series; one in each side tank as shown below. With so much metalwork around and potential for shorts I would not use Lithium and would make sure you a good 5 amp fast blow fuse.
Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound
Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound
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As M Moonraker says NiMh will be your best friend. I tend to find that most locomotives work quite well with apparently less Volts than may be needed through the track. This is because you have negligable voltage loss using dead rail on board battery power. If you are unsure what to use and there appears to be little experience in here of barptteryficating an Earl may I suggest a pull down and test the chassis on blocks with AA batteries in plastic battery holders to get a feel for your needs. However the space revealed inside my lead to the amount of batteries that can be accommodated, though I would imagine the tanks may hold 6-8 each side giving I imagine plenty of ooopf for your needs.
I take a very sophisticated approach
I run the loco on track power, and see how far I have to turn the controller up to have the loco running at approximate scale speed.As full power on the hand controller is 18v (I run analogue) then something that uses 3/4 power on the handheld will get and 18v battery pack. Half power, I go for 14.4v and small locos with Como drill type motors run on 9,4v (in one case) or 12v
So far, I haven't had a problem ................. says he hastily clutching the wooden desk
Gearing also plays a part - NiMh batteries don't like to be laboured on high gearing, they're better with a spinning motor on a low gearing (high ratio). If the Earl is like the Baguley diesel, I think it's likely to have a motor with a gearhead, and should be suitably geared.
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Aha in the nick of time, noting thatI take a very sophisticated approach
As full power on the hand controller is 18v (I run analogue) then something that uses 3/4 power on the handheld will get and 18v battery pack. Half power, I go for 14.4v and small locos with Como drill type motors run on 9,4v (in one case) or 12v
So far, I haven't had a problem ................. says he hastily clutching the wooden desk
Gearing also plays a part - NiMh batteries don't like to be laboured on high gearing, they're better with a spinning motor on a low gearing (high ratio). If the Earl is like the Baguley diesel, I think it's likely to have a motor with a gearhead, and should be suitably geared.
kedwards
has I think all battery powered kit I have asked him to comment on his Accy Drewery.-
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Gosh. It was such a long time ago. It was my first battery + R/C conversion. It's either running off 12V or 14.4V, probably 12 and it goes quite fast enough.Aha in the nick of time, noting that
Going back that far, it was probably a NiCad battery pack.
My Garratt which is based on 2 LBG Stainz locos is definitely 14.4V. The batteries are AAs and they run the smoke unit too.
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So, I would suggest 14.4v AA eneloop technology from Strikealite.
Work out what will fit in each tank, get Paul? (if I've remembered his name right - probably not) will make up packs to the shape you want. I'd go for 7.2v in each side tank wired in series to give you the 14.4v.
If you get better advice, then ignore this
Work out what will fit in each tank, get Paul? (if I've remembered his name right - probably not) will make up packs to the shape you want. I'd go for 7.2v in each side tank wired in series to give you the 14.4v.
If you get better advice, then ignore this
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I converted mine but did use a 1400mah 4S lithium battery pack which slid into the boiler from the front. Gives quite a good run but haven't actually managed the current consumption. No problem with multiple two hour sessions of gentle running. Much easier if you can get your batteries into the boiler, no need to pull anything apart.
Cheers,
Stephen Cox
Canberra AUS
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