Converting Accucraft Earl from track to battery power

[My45G]

I want to convert a track powered Accucraft Earl to RC Battery. I'm ok with all the radio bits, wiring, connections etc. but wondered what batteries to use. I would prefer NiMH simply for charging reasons, but what voltage required? what is current draw from motor? likely run time? what physical size and where would they fit? Anyone done this recently?

 

[Moonraker]

I don't know about the Earl but I have just converted an Accucraft Puffing Billy NA to battery/radio/sound. It uses a 24v motor because of the substantial weight. Therefore I used two ten cell NiMh batteries in series; one in each side tank as shown below. With so much metalwork around and potential for shorts I would not use Lithium and would make sure you a good 5 amp fast blow fuse.

Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound

 

[dunnyrail]

I want to convert a track powered Accucraft Earl to RC Battery. I'm ok with all the radio bits, wiring, connections etc. but wondered what batteries to use. I would prefer NiMH simply for charging reasons, but what voltage required? what is current draw from motor? likely run time? what physical size and where would they fit? Anyone done this recently?

As M Moonraker says NiMh will be your best friend. I tend to find that most locomotives work quite well with apparently less Volts than may be needed through the track. This is because you have negligable voltage loss using dead rail on board battery power. If you are unsure what to use and there appears to be little experience in here of barptteryficating an Earl may I suggest a pull down and test the chassis on blocks with AA batteries in plastic battery holders to get a feel for your needs. However the space revealed inside my lead to the amount of batteries that can be accommodated, though I would imagine the tanks may hold 6-8 each side giving I imagine plenty of ooopf for your needs.

 

[Rhinochugger]

I want to convert a track powered Accucraft Earl to RC Battery. I'm ok with all the radio bits, wiring, connections etc. but wondered what batteries to use. I would prefer NiMH simply for charging reasons, but what voltage required? what is current draw from motor? likely run time? what physical size and where would they fit? Anyone done this recently?

I take a very sophisticated approach I run the loco on track power, and see how far I have to turn the controller up to have the loco running at approximate scale speed.

As full power on the hand controller is 18v (I run analogue) then something that uses 3/4 power on the handheld will get and 18v battery pack. Half power, I go for 14.4v and small locos with Como drill type motors run on 9,4v (in one case) or 12v

So far, I haven't had a problem ................. says he hastily clutching the wooden desk

Gearing also plays a part - NiMh batteries don't like to be laboured on high gearing, they're better with a spinning motor on a low gearing (high ratio). If the Earl is like the Baguley diesel, I think it's likely to have a motor with a gearhead, and should be suitably geared.

 

[dunnyrail]

I take a very sophisticated approach I run the loco on track power, and see how far I have to turn the controller up to have the loco running at approximate scale speed.

As full power on the hand controller is 18v (I run analogue) then something that uses 3/4 power on the handheld will get and 18v battery pack. Half power, I go for 14.4v and small locos with Como drill type motors run on 9,4v (in one case) or 12v

So far, I haven't had a problem ................. says he hastily clutching the wooden desk

Gearing also plays a part - NiMh batteries don't like to be laboured on high gearing, they're better with a spinning motor on a low gearing (high ratio). If the Earl is like the Baguley diesel, I think it's likely to have a motor with a gearhead, and should be suitably geared.

Aha in the nick of time, noting that kedwards has I think all battery powered kit I have asked him to comment on his Accy Drewery.

 

[kedwards]

Aha in the nick of time, noting that kedwards has I think all battery powered kit I have asked him to comment on his Accy Drewery.

Gosh. It was such a long time ago. It was my first battery + R/C conversion. It's either running off 12V or 14.4V, probably 12 and it goes quite fast enough.

Going back that far, it was probably a NiCad battery pack.

My Garratt which is based on 2 LBG Stainz locos is definitely 14.4V. The batteries are AAs and they run the smoke unit too.

 

[Rhinochugger]

So, I would suggest 14.4v AA eneloop technology from Strikealite.

Work out what will fit in each tank, get Paul? (if I've remembered his name right - probably not) will make up packs to the shape you want. I'd go for 7.2v in each side tank wired in series to give you the 14.4v.

If you get better advice, then ignore this

 

[sgcox]

I want to convert a track powered Accucraft Earl to RC Battery. I'm ok with all the radio bits, wiring, connections etc. but wondered what batteries to use. I would prefer NiMH simply for charging reasons, but what voltage required? what is current draw from motor? likely run time? what physical size and where would they fit? Anyone done this recently?

I converted mine but did use a 1400mah 4S lithium battery pack which slid into the boiler from the front. Gives quite a good run but haven't actually managed the current consumption. No problem with multiple two hour sessions of gentle running. Much easier if you can get your batteries into the boiler, no need to pull anything apart.

Cheers,

Stephen Cox
Canberra AUS

 

[Mick Spilsbury]

I have just taken delivery of the new Accucraft C18 and will be converting it to battery power and R/C and sound. I plan to put the new components in the tender. I have 8 converted LGB Moguls all of which have the components in the tender but realize that the C18 is whole different proposition, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Mick

 

[maxi-model]

I have just taken delivery of the new Accucraft C18 and will be converting it to battery power and R/C and sound. I plan to put the new components in the tender. I have 8 converted LGB Moguls all of which have the components in the tender but realize that the C18 is whole different proposition, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Mick
View attachment 331442

I have an old Accucraft K-27. An all metal loco of a similar weight to your C-18. And that is the important bit - you need to ensure the ESC, separate or part of a DCC sound/ESC, you use is capable of handling the volts/amps a heavy loco can draw under full load. My conversion was carried out by Fosworks here in the UK and has a 100 watt ESC fitted, 30 watt was considered borderline. Loco draws, say, 5 amps using 18 v = 90 watt. So you have a bit of headroom on a motor that will probably have a max draw of 3 amps.

Battery packs ? My large locos use 18v NiMH AA packs. However if you are wanting very long run times, with all the flashing lights, bells and whistles going (and a smke generator ?), you might want to consider sub-C size. As others have said you may want to go for the Eneloop NiMH.

Next, as mentioned, your loco is all metal. Any RX should have the ariel component mounted externaly on an upper surface of the loco. Your tender is like a Faraday cage if the coal load has a metal tray. Plastic locos you can get away without.

Sound - my old K-27 has a wonderful old Sierra card fitted, with clever bits that get over its issues with the ESC's PWM output. Nowadays, however, my preference is to fit ESU make DCC cards with their own ESC's incorporated to my locos. Again make sure the wattage or amps rating is sufficient. ESU's current 5XL type should do for your loco. It can handle 5 amps. ESU has a sound library that covers most D&RGW NG loco types. Again you may prefer a more traditional "DC" set up using a Phoenix sound card or suchlike.

Finally TX & RX - If you go for a DCC sound/ESC set up you can get hand held TX's and DCC compatible RX combos that will allow you to make fuller use of a DCC card's features and capabilities in a battery/rc set up. Again I source from Fosworks here in the UK.

Oh, and it all fits in the tender. My old K-27 has a simple bus bar under the cab that the electrical bits in the loco conect to, inc' its big Pitman motor and gearbox. I just have 2 wires, from the ESC, going in here with a JST connector so I can separate the tender. I understand Accucraft may have upgraded this arrangement, but the basics are the same. Hope this info helps.

Max

 

[Mick Spilsbury]

I have just taken delivery of the new Accucraft C18 and will be converting it to battery power amnd R/C and sound. I plan to put the new components in the tender. I have 8 converted LGB Moguls all of which have the components in the tender but realize that the C18 is whole different proposition, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Mick

I have just taken delivery of the new Accucraft C18 and will be converting it to battery power and R/C and sound. I plan to put the new components in the tender. I have 8 converted LGB Moguls all of which have the components in the tender but realize that the C18 is whole different proposition, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Mick
View attachment 331442

I have an old Accucraft K-27. An all metal loco of a similar weight to your C-18. And that is the important bit - you need to ensure the ESC, separate or part of a DCC sound/ESC, you use is capable of handling the volts/amps a heavy loco can draw under full load. My conversion was carried out by Fosworks here in the UK and has a 100 watt ESC fitted, 30 watt was considered borderline. Loco draws, say, 5 amps using 18 v = 90 watt. So you have a bit of headroom on a motor that will probably have a max draw of 3 amps.

Battery packs ? My large locos use 18v NiMH AA packs. However if you are wanting very long run times, with all the flashing lights, bells and whistles going (and a smke generator ?), you might want to consider sub-C size. As others have said you may want to go for the Eneloop NiMH.

Next, as mentioned, your loco is all metal. Any RX should have the ariel component mounted externaly on an upper surface of the loco. Your tender is like a Faraday cage if the coal load has a metal tray. Plastic locos you can get away without.

Sound - my old K-27 has a wonderful old Sierra card fitted, with clever bits that get over its issues with the ESC's PWM output. Nowadays, however, my preference is to fit ESU make DCC cards with their own ESC's incorporated to my locos. Again make sure the wattage or amps rating is sufficient. ESU's current 5XL type should do for your loco. It can handle 5 amps. ESU has a sound library that covers most D&RGW NG loco types. Again you may prefer a more traditional "DC" set up using a Phoenix sound card or suchlike.

Finally TX & RX - If you go for a DCC sound/ESC set up you can get hand held TX's and DCC compatible RX combos that will allow you to make fuller use of a DCC card's features and capabilities in a battery/rc set up. Again I source from Fosworks here in the UK.

Oh, and it all fits in the tender. My old K-27 has a simple bus bar under the cab that the electrical bits in the loco conect to, inc' its big Pitman motor and gearbox. I just have 2 wires, from the ESC, going in here with a JST connector so I can separate the tender. I understand Accucraft may have upgraded this arrangement, but the basics are the same. Hope this info helps.

Max

Max

I have an old Accucraft K-27. An all metal loco of a similar weight to your C-18. And that is the important bit - you need to ensure the ESC, separate or part of a DCC sound/ESC, you use is capable of handling the volts/amps a heavy loco can draw under full load. My conversion was carried out by Fosworks here in the UK and has a 100 watt ESC fitted, 30 watt was considered borderline. Loco draws, say, 5 amps using 18 v = 90 watt. So you have a bit of headroom on a motor that will probably have a max draw of 3 amps.

Battery packs ? My large locos use 18v NiMH AA packs. However if you are wanting very long run times, with all the flashing lights, bells and whistles going (and a smke generator ?), you might want to consider sub-C size. As others have said you may want to go for the Eneloop NiMH.

Next, as mentioned, your loco is all metal. Any RX should have the ariel component mounted externaly on an upper surface of the loco. Your tender is like a Faraday cage if the coal load has a metal tray. Plastic locos you can get away without.

Sound - my old K-27 has a wonderful old Sierra card fitted, with clever bits that get over its issues with the ESC's PWM output. Nowadays, however, my preference is to fit ESU make DCC cards with their own ESC's incorporated to my locos. Again make sure the wattage or amps rating is sufficient. ESU's current 5XL type should do for your loco. It can handle 5 amps. ESU has a sound library that covers most D&RGW NG loco types. Again you may prefer a more traditional "DC" set up using a Phoenix sound card or suchlike.

Finally TX & RX - If you go for a DCC sound/ESC set up you can get hand held TX's and DCC compatible RX combos that will allow you to make fuller use of a DCC card's features and capabilities in a battery/rc set up. Again I source from Fosworks here in the UK.

Oh, and it all fits in the tender. My old K-27 has a simple bus bar under the cab that the electrical bits in the loco conect to, inc' its big Pitman motor and gearbox. I just have 2 wires, from the ESC, going in here with a JST connector so I can separate the tender. I understand Accucraft may have upgraded this arrangement, but the basics are the same. Hope this info helps.

Max

Wow, this is really helpful. Thank you. Mick