Controlling switches...how?

[GAP]

Hey,
Thanks for the post. I live in the Philippines and moved to RC 3 years ago. No regrets. I use Deltang receivers and single transmitter capable of independent, simultaneous control of up to 12 loco. All from RC Trains.
The track tends to get dirty very quickly here and needed cleaning daily. I got fed up with this and moved to battery and RC. Power has been LiIon or LiPo. I prefer LiPo as I can use the same batteries in my RC cars.
As for control of devices. I am looking into this also. I want to use wire-in-tube to operate points manually. Electrics core so easily. However if you look at the RC Trains blog you will find an interesting way to have radio controlled points. If you are good with electrics or keen to face the challenge, this could be good.
Back to batteries. My one large loco has a 4S LiPo on board. The others have wagons to hold the batteries. I did not like the idea of towing the power supply but I find it OK. I have adopted a couple of wagons from Houston Gate for this purpose and a regular LGB closed wagon.
I hope this gas helped. RC is definitely recommended.
Cheers,
Tim

I lived in the tropics of Northern Aust (high humidity, heavy rain for 6 months of the year (monsoon) and I am moving back up there next year.
I went R/C right from day one because I knew I was moving back up North.
The idea of using cables to control my points/turnouts is something I had overlooked trying to be all electronic.
I did dabble with the old fiberglass rod in a tube and the control levers as used by an model plane user friend earlier with my HO layout and that worked. Its a bit like the old lever system used in early railway control.
Choke cable/pushbike brake cable is an option but unless stainless cable is used corrosion can be a big overhead.

 

[JeffofSpace]

Response to this thread has been fantastic. Thank you all for such great ideas.

Having learnt that conversion to rc is much much more doable than I had thought, I am definitely doing it with the trains for sure.

I’m going to keep playing with ideas for the switches...things get complicated real fast outdoors. I like keeping my lgb machines...I wonder if I should just do an experiment....lgb machine, receiver (w bec circuitry), 9volt battery.

Each switch could have a control box, power flipped on on each at beginning of session.

 

[stockers]

Keep it simple - and for mobile remote access, which is what i assume you want, difficult to beat LGB point motors.

 

[Fred Mills]

I lived in the tropics of Northern Aust (high humidity, heavy rain for 6 months of the year (monsoon) and I am moving back up there next year.
I went R/C right from day one because I knew I was moving back up North.
The idea of using cables to control my points/turnouts is something I had overlooked trying to be all electronic.
I did dabble with the old fiberglass rod in a tube and the control levers as used by an model plane user friend earlier with my HO layout and that worked. Its a bit like the old lever system used in early railway control.
Choke cable/pushbike brake cable is an option but unless stainless cable is used corrosion can be a big overhead.

 

[Fred Mills]

When looking for systems for controlling switches(Points), why does everyone look first to the hobby industry for parts ?
Usually the parts from the hobby industry are much more expensive, and not designed for durability in the varied conditions of the out-of-doors.
By looking around, one can find, at rather inexpensive prices, many parts, and varied equipment, in the Automotive sector.
CHOKE CABLES are easily available, in most cases with stainless steel components, at automotive supply shops...at least here in Canada...Canadian Tire Stores (Crappy Tire...!!) is one found just about everywhere around Canada. They are available in various lengths, and stand up rather well, with just periodic lubrication, if installed properly. I've been using over a dozen of them for over 15 years, without failure...just minor adjustments, on occasion.
Automotive wiring devices are also, sometimes good for various uses, when working on wiring, for out-of-doors.
Avoid bicycle cables...they may be fine for bicycles, but not for controlling switches(Points)...same with model aircraft cabling...
OTTAWA, Ontario, Canada, is known for 4 distinct seasons, with a temperature range from -40C to + 40C. Rain, snow, and ice...and the choke cables are still functioning, without protection, for over 15 years.
Fred Mills

 

[JeffofSpace]

Right, but I want to be able to walk around and control switches anywhere on the layout remotely. I will take electronics in for the winter rains...I also will take my handmade wooden bridges...(I just tack them down with caulking on their concrete anchors). The lgb machines are so reliable...as noted above...so, my best solution seems to be a little battery powered receiver box right next to the switch...which can be taken in with all else.

Hadn’t considered winter running...perhaps just regular manual points will be the way to go and some temporary plastic support bridges for that season if there are any days it is not raining. Snow running has major appeal now that I think about it.

Further, as the layout is small now and due to expand, I’d like to just be able to lay track where ever the plan develops. I don’t want infrastructure such as pneumatics. I understand everyone has their own preferred system...and has worked through these issues in novel and unique ways best suiting their time and interests.

I saw how much was needed in terms of wiring for just a small layout. Would rather not replace that with another run of another material.

Basically, I want to keep everything light...consideration and bulk of time spent on tracklaying and landscaping.

 

[GAP]

When looking for systems for controlling switches(Points), why does everyone look first to the hobby industry for parts ?
Usually the parts from the hobby industry are much more expensive, and not designed for durability in the varied conditions of the out-of-doors.
By looking around, one can find, at rather inexpensive prices, many parts, and varied equipment, in the Automotive sector.
CHOKE CABLES are easily available, in most cases with stainless steel components, at automotive supply shops...at least here in Canada...Canadian Tire Stores (Crappy Tire...!!) is one found just about everywhere around Canada. They are available in various lengths, and stand up rather well, with just periodic lubrication, if installed properly. I've been using over a dozen of them for over 15 years, without failure...just minor adjustments, on occasion.
Automotive wiring devices are also, sometimes good for various uses, when working on wiring, for out-of-doors.
Avoid bicycle cables...they may be fine for bicycles, but not for controlling switches(Points)...same with model aircraft cabling...
OTTAWA, Ontario, Canada, is known for 4 distinct seasons, with a temperature range from -40C to + 40C. Rain, snow, and ice...and the choke cables are still functioning, without protection, for over 15 years.
Fred Mills

Thanks Fred will look at choke cables

 

[GAP]

Right, but I want to be able to walk around and control switches anywhere on the layout remotely. I will take electronics in for the winter rains...I also will take my handmade wooden bridges...(I just tack them down with caulking on their concrete anchors). The lgb machines are so reliable...as noted above...so, my best solution seems to be a little battery powered receiver box right next to the switch...which can be taken in with all else.

Hadn’t considered winter running...perhaps just regular manual points will be the way to go and some temporary plastic support bridges for that season if there are any days it is not raining. Snow running has major appeal now that I think about it.

Further, as the layout is small now and due to expand, I’d like to just be able to lay track where ever the plan develops. I don’t want infrastructure such as pneumatics. I understand everyone has their own preferred system...and has worked through these issues in novel and unique ways best suiting their time and interests.

I saw how much was needed in terms of wiring for just a small layout. Would rather not replace that with another run of another material.

Basically, I want to keep everything light...consideration and bulk of time spent on tracklaying and landscaping.

For snow running how about a live steamer just melt your way through.

For remote power supply I am looking at a battery with a solar powered trickle charger connected to it.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Jeff:

I took the question as remote wireless control of any switch from anywhere... BUT you did say:

"My question for the rc guys...how are you doing this? Does everyone just do manual switches? A receiver (or “servo slot”) for each switch and a separate radio? "

If you don't mind taking the electronics inside in the winter as you say, that can work.

But I have a hard time believing it will work that way, are you going to take them in every time it rains (most important), and can you design a quick release mechanism for the switch motor itself (has not been done yet, but not impossible).

Also you will find putting in a battery and receiver for every switch, and also having the ability to gang charge a bunch of switche batteries at the same time... well I'll bet you that does not turn out to be a great solution.

I'll be interested in your solution. Mine as you know is DCC power from the track powers a decoder anywhere I want to put it so wiring is extremely minimal, and running the pneumatic hose is easy and can be changed easily.

If it was me, and I wanted to go wireless, I would make a few boxes with big batteries that would run like 4 or 8 switches, with a wireless receiver running an accessory decoder for 4 or 8 switches... locate each box to minimize the wiring runs, and have one quick disconnect connector for the whole box.

Greg

 

[JeffofSpace]

Great idea about a few boxes for each ‘clump’ of switches. I’ll do it with receivers, though. DCC has worked great for me in controlling switches now. But I’m up for total wireless now.

I should have specified...I meant The Rains...I’m in Seattle...where we go into caves in the winter for brightness.

My current switch machines weather the occasional rain just fine...I think a little detachable box with some rain averting consideration should be fine. It’s in early October that it starts to rain ALL the time...even the rain itself rusts. But seriously, everything is just wet for 5 months. That is what I’m worried about with the internals.

I’ll definitely report back. Looks like rctrains has my route.