Scot Lawrence
Registered
My new "three rail" track over my bridge! 
This thread is an off-shoot of this thread:
www.gscalecentral.net
But I ended up not using the LGB switches at all, so instead of continuing that thread, I thought this warranted a seperate thread.
So I've had a bridge setup on my "upper loop" for a few years now:
The main body of the bridge is a steel support that was once part of one of those "suspended from the ceiling" supermarket G-scale ovals.
Originally I had one track across the middle, with two turnouts leading to two 8-foot diameter return loops. This is my "upper loop" and is battery power only, no track power.
I attempted to make the turnouts into "spring switches", so the turnouts would "trip and hold" automatically, which works fine with diesels with heavy solid trucks, but doesnt work so well with steam locomotives with light pilot wheels. Details on my 2018 page:
So, since the "spring switches" wouldnt work for me, I went with "Phase 2" of the design, removing the turnouts completely and interlacing ties to get the two tracks as close together as possible:
That worked fine for all of 2019..
Until 2020, when I began building the Arch portion of the bridge. (which has been part of my plan for this bridge all along.)
This resulted in clearance problems!
The side of my larger steam locomotives hit the side of the arch..So that lead to a thread on G Scale Central, (link at the top of this post) about trying automated powered switches, so I could return the bridge to a single-track across the center.. While exploring that idea, I looked at Gantlet/Gauntlet/Interlaced ideas, which I knew about.. A proper gantlet is brilliant, but a challenge to build, it requires frogs the same as turnouts:
I dont have any spare turnouts I can canabalize, so i would need to scratch-build the whole thing.. Doable! but quite a project..
I would basically need to scratch-build the whole 8-foot section of gantlet track, and spike down all the rail on some sort of support/base..
Is there an easier way?
then I came across this photo:
Looks like its from an outdoor "live steam" club, hmmm.. that has potential!
So later that same day, I went to work:
Then I worked on connecting the pieces for a few weeks!
The "3 rail" track is the easiest part.. joining the curve to the straight track takes some fiddly work with a dremel tool and a cut off wheel, and a file.
I used a dremel tool to cut away the bottom of the rail, then cut the side to a point to make the two "center" rails mate together smoothly:
You can see the one screw that keeps the two rails together. the screw both holds down the modified pointed rail, and presses it into the side of the main rail.
its basically just a sharp point pressed into the straight rail, and held tight by that one screw. I havent tried solder yet, not sure its necessary.. we'll see how it holds up over the winter.
Some photos of the finished product:
And video 2:
I'm calling it a "Gantlet-ish" bridge because I dont think its a "real" or "proper" Gantlet bridge/Gantlet track..
I have seen the terms "Gantlet", "Gauntlet" and "Interlaced" all used to describe the same concept..
I believe "Gantlet" and "Interlaced" are correct. "Gauntlet" is likely originally a mishearing of "Gantlet", but it's one of those things that is used so often "wrong" that it "becomes right" over time.
And thats it!
I'm quite happy with how it turned out..
No electricity needed, and no moving parts..
would have been easier to just have a wider bridge!
but that's not always possible of course..
thanks for the help everyone! much appreciated..
Scot


This thread is an off-shoot of this thread:

Automatic LGB turnout control circuit.
Hi everyone, I'm thinking about re-doing the track over my upper bridge on my Garden Railroad, and im wondering if this sort of automatic turnout control would be possible: The trackplan is a simple loop-to-loop, with two turnouts and a single track across the center: I have LGB turnouts with...

But I ended up not using the LGB switches at all, so instead of continuing that thread, I thought this warranted a seperate thread.
So I've had a bridge setup on my "upper loop" for a few years now:

The main body of the bridge is a steel support that was once part of one of those "suspended from the ceiling" supermarket G-scale ovals.
Originally I had one track across the middle, with two turnouts leading to two 8-foot diameter return loops. This is my "upper loop" and is battery power only, no track power.

I attempted to make the turnouts into "spring switches", so the turnouts would "trip and hold" automatically, which works fine with diesels with heavy solid trucks, but doesnt work so well with steam locomotives with light pilot wheels. Details on my 2018 page:
So, since the "spring switches" wouldnt work for me, I went with "Phase 2" of the design, removing the turnouts completely and interlacing ties to get the two tracks as close together as possible:

That worked fine for all of 2019..
Until 2020, when I began building the Arch portion of the bridge. (which has been part of my plan for this bridge all along.)

This resulted in clearance problems!



I dont have any spare turnouts I can canabalize, so i would need to scratch-build the whole thing.. Doable! but quite a project..
I would basically need to scratch-build the whole 8-foot section of gantlet track, and spike down all the rail on some sort of support/base..
Is there an easier way?
then I came across this photo:

Looks like its from an outdoor "live steam" club, hmmm.. that has potential!

So later that same day, I went to work:
Then I worked on connecting the pieces for a few weeks!

The "3 rail" track is the easiest part.. joining the curve to the straight track takes some fiddly work with a dremel tool and a cut off wheel, and a file.
I used a dremel tool to cut away the bottom of the rail, then cut the side to a point to make the two "center" rails mate together smoothly:

You can see the one screw that keeps the two rails together. the screw both holds down the modified pointed rail, and presses it into the side of the main rail.
its basically just a sharp point pressed into the straight rail, and held tight by that one screw. I havent tried solder yet, not sure its necessary.. we'll see how it holds up over the winter.
Some photos of the finished product:




And video 2:
I'm calling it a "Gantlet-ish" bridge because I dont think its a "real" or "proper" Gantlet bridge/Gantlet track..
I have seen the terms "Gantlet", "Gauntlet" and "Interlaced" all used to describe the same concept..
I believe "Gantlet" and "Interlaced" are correct. "Gauntlet" is likely originally a mishearing of "Gantlet", but it's one of those things that is used so often "wrong" that it "becomes right" over time.

And thats it!

No electricity needed, and no moving parts..
would have been easier to just have a wider bridge!

thanks for the help everyone! much appreciated..
Scot
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