Bug Mauler crash bash Mark II

Mik

Steam tractors, good books, scratchbuilding models
17 Dec 2009
2,072
3
The wilds of Western Pennsylvania
www.the-ashpit.com
Best answers
0
It's no secret that the Bachmann 10 wheelers are not my favorite locomotives... not even in the top 15... It's a mediocre model of a not very balanced looking prototype. I've owned about 4. Because they were cheap, and so was I. But they just look goofy on small layouts.

It's also no secret that I have been trying for quite some time to sell a highly modified 5th generation one that I rebuilt from an unrun, but dropped Christmas version........ With absolutely no luck.....
PB120002.jpg


Well, a couple weeks ago, I was moving the unloved thing to dust under it and it tumbled AGAIN (about 6 feet to the floor this time) ---- destroying the cab roof and breaking off a running board, as well as deranging the geometry of the cylinders. Soooooooooo, having been reduced in value to a parts locomotive once again, this engine will be getting a MAJOR overhaul --- into something that I can run on the AV.

I still HAVE Delton C-16 cabs, but the Bachmann boiler is just way too big to simply swap it. I also have a C-16 boiler shell.... but it's MUCH smaller than the 10 wheeler's .... major meatball surgery will be needed to make this work.

First steps.... remove the entire B'mann superstructure. Cut away everything above the drivers, and shorten it about 4" from several locations.
PA120001.jpg


Here is a mock-up, so you can see where we are headed...
PA120002.jpg


Now, I've got some questions from those who've already butchered on these things:
1. What is the simplest way to move the long crankpin to the rear axle? Cut and Splice? Fabricate from tube? give up and just shorten the rods for the center axle? I'd really like to retain the Walsherts valve gear if I can.
2. Can the smoke unit be repaired? The thin wire broke one of the times it crashed and the little tube has become dislodged. If It can't I'll just use an old 18v LGB unit that I already have here.
3. Is it worth the effort to try to shorten the pony truck, or should I just get a Kalamazoo part or scratchbuild it?
 

gregh

electronics, computers and scratchbuilding
1 Nov 2009
3,137
263
Sydney, Australia
www.members.optusnet.com.au
Best answers
0
Country flag
Mik said:
Now, I've got some questions from those who've already butchered on these things:
1. What is the simplest way to move the long crankpin to the rear axle? Cut and Splice? Fabricate from tube? give up and just shorten the rods for the center axle? I'd really like to retain the Walsherts valve gear if I can.
2. Can the smoke unit be repaired? The thin wire broke one of the times it crashed and the little tube has become dislodged. If It can't I'll just use an old 18v LGB unit that I already have here.
3. Is it worth the effort to try to shorten the pony truck, or should I just get a Kalamazoo part or scratchbuild it?

I've bashed 4 of these things over the years.

I've moved the cylinders back like you but left the drive rod connected to the centre wheel. I make connecting rods from copper-clad electronics board for strength. Try to get fibreglass
backed stuff.
I don't think the smoke unit wires can be soldered, so not easy to repair.
Shortening the pony truck is easy. I cut 10mm out of it and then spliced it back together with 3 bits of brass in the "U" shaped channel, and glued with lots of epoxy.
 

Mik

Steam tractors, good books, scratchbuilding models
17 Dec 2009
2,072
3
The wilds of Western Pennsylvania
www.the-ashpit.com
Best answers
0
very very short pony truck.... not sure yet if a 2 wheel one might not be a better choice.
PA120002_01.jpg


Started to transfer the re-usable parts from the Bachmann carcass
PA120003.jpg


Dunno, Does it look TOO odd?
PA120004.jpg
 

hagen

Registered
25 Oct 2009
834
0
Kongsberg, Norway
Best answers
0
Mik said:
very very short pony truck.... not sure yet if a 2 wheel one might not be a better choice.


Started to transfer the re-usable parts from the Bachmann carcass


Dunno, Does it look TOO odd?

I think it would look better as a Mogul when you shorten it that much.
But that's me :)
 

Mik

Steam tractors, good books, scratchbuilding models
17 Dec 2009
2,072
3
The wilds of Western Pennsylvania
www.the-ashpit.com
Best answers
0
OK, the mogul guys won. I also extended the rods (with coffee stirrers and glue - we'll see if they need pinned. The sound trigger was removed.... thinking about using the 2 pin connector to bring additional power from the tender
PA130001.jpg


Since the B'mann builder's plates say July 1918, the 1870's smokebox door had to go.... So I cut down the bug mauler one to fit.
PA140004.jpg


All the custom piping from the bug mauler was salvaged and installed. It's getting kind of crowded in there.
PA140005.jpg


How it looks at the moment. Yes, it has an Annie airpump - the one that I had installed on the bug mauler.
PA140003.jpg


Later today I'll install pressure the B'mann guages, reinstall the weight, wire the headlight and maybe a cab light. But I'm still in need of a steam dome that fits.
 

Mik

Steam tractors, good books, scratchbuilding models
17 Dec 2009
2,072
3
The wilds of Western Pennsylvania
www.the-ashpit.com
Best answers
0
Well, it's coming along... Most of what I did today doesn't show, though. And I still need a steam dome.
PA140001.jpg


busketti!
PA140002.jpg


Anybody know how much weight you can safely add to a 5th gen bug mauler without trashing the drive?
 

gregh

electronics, computers and scratchbuilding
1 Nov 2009
3,137
263
Sydney, Australia
www.members.optusnet.com.au
Best answers
0
Country flag
Mik said:
Anybody know how much weight you can safely add to a 5th gen bug mauler without trashing the drive?

Looking Great.
I've got 2.5kg of battery on one of my BH chassis (in a Garratt).
Almost all my BH units have had the nylon gear on the drive axle come loose - it's splined on. I fixed them by applying a soldering iron to the nylon to melt it back onto the splines.
 

Mik

Steam tractors, good books, scratchbuilding models
17 Dec 2009
2,072
3
The wilds of Western Pennsylvania
www.the-ashpit.com
Best answers
0
I modified a 3/4" PVC pipe cap to fit. And scrounged up the Vanderbilt tender that I started back in January. Jury is still out on both.
PA150001.jpg

PA150002.jpg


Ozark has a nice dome... for $9 - But I'm not quite sure it will fit
http://www.ozarkminiatures.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=720 < Link To http://www.ozarkminiature...View.asp?idproduct=720
 

Mik

Steam tractors, good books, scratchbuilding models
17 Dec 2009
2,072
3
The wilds of Western Pennsylvania
www.the-ashpit.com
Best answers
0
The last day or so saw the smokebox wiring soldered, and two axles on the tender fitted with pickups.
PA170005.jpg


The Vandy got ladders and a brakewheel. I still need to make railings and a water hatch, as well as repaint the Lionel fireman in non glossy colors and build a fall plate.
PA170006.jpg


I think it's nearly becoming acceptable. I do want to add an upper band to the steam dome before I mount the safeties and a whistle.... any ideas how, other than .032x1/4 brass strip?
PA170004.jpg
 

trammayo

Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
24 Oct 2009
22,679
4,691
75
Co. Mayo
Country
Ireland
Best answers
0
Country flag
Great bash Mik (I'm a fan of Big Haulers). You might try a slice off a plastic bottle cap or something similar. Although, in my experience, you never find the right size until months after you have had to make something special to fit.

Mick
 

Mik

Steam tractors, good books, scratchbuilding models
17 Dec 2009
2,072
3
The wilds of Western Pennsylvania
www.the-ashpit.com
Best answers
0
As I said, I'm just not a fan. I had a 1st gen.. remember the battery op PoS? It died on Christmas day. I had the 2nd gen 'limited edition' Pennsylvania set. The plating wore off the potmetal wheels in a few weeks, and it burnt up the motor just pulling the two set cars after about a month. After that I bought an Aristo starter set 0-4-0 (and by luck of the draw got a good one).
Then I drifted into used Stainz territory, and discovered that I kind of liked being able to just plop a loco on the track, turn the throttle and have it actually GO with no fuss.

A bunch of years later I had a 4th gen big hauler because people were saying how much they had improved. It was an improvement over a turd, but it sure wasn't Stainz quality, and it still had all those cheezy cheap details of the 1st gen version.

This one I bought to peddle. But now I'm stuck with. I guess I'll soon see if the 5th gen/Annie drive is really any better than the rest were.... or if I'll wait for a few more improvements (or maybe decades) before trying again. The gear problem that was mentioned makes me wonder how long this one is destined to live.
 

C&S

Registered
3 Nov 2009
3,103
0
Best answers
0
Mik said:
I do want to add an upper band to the steam dome before I mount the safeties and a whistle.... any ideas how, other than .032x1/4 brass strip?
How about some styrene strip? You should be able to pre-curve a piece 20 thou by holding the strip and pulling it across the back of a craft blade. then offer up to the dome and trim to length. If 20 thou is too thin you could try one strip overlaying another. At least the styrene should weld to the plastic of the dome.
 

Mik

Steam tractors, good books, scratchbuilding models
17 Dec 2009
2,072
3
The wilds of Western Pennsylvania
www.the-ashpit.com
Best answers
0
It actually sorta looks like a locomotive! :confused:

I didn't HAVE anything but .060x1/4" brass here.... so I spent an hour rolling a hoop with a pair of needlenose pliers and a sore thumb.
PA180004.jpg


Since it's to be a passenger lok, I used up my last Trackside Details steptop chime, and recycled the Ozark Miniatures safeties from the Bug Mauler carcass
PA180006.jpg


Steel wire handrails and a 2c water hatch (literally, it's 2 pennies and a short bit of plastic center from a cash register tape)
PA180008.jpg


Still need to wire pick-ups for the pony truck, make tool boxes for right ahead of the ladders, steps, and cut levers for the tender....then apply a final coat of color, decals and some very light weathering......... maybe 2 more evenings worth of work.
 

Mik

Steam tractors, good books, scratchbuilding models
17 Dec 2009
2,072
3
The wilds of Western Pennsylvania
www.the-ashpit.com
Best answers
0
I thought I'd inflict a few more pix on you guys.

It really doesn't look that bad outside, even if it's not quite finished.
PA280003.jpg

PA280002.jpg

PA280001.jpg


and a vid clip


It ran real well considering I haven't cleaned the rails in a month.