Brass Track Maintenance

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Weavervegas1

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I have recently installed a 60' track around my outdoor fountain pond. Every time I use it, it needs the track cleaned with the LGB cleaner pad. The loco and rolling stock are secured out of the weather, as is the transformer, and I don't understand why it always runs erratically after a rain, or even overnight with a dew the next morning. After cleaning, it seems to run fine for several hours. I'm using the transformer for a Bachmann Big Hauler set, and wonder if a more powerful amperage would solve this problem. The track has two power connectors, located midway around the track from each other, and fed by the one transformer.

Please help me solve this annoying issue.

Thanks very much!

Terry
 
I can’t speak to the more powerful amps, but when I used track power track cleaning was always essential. I used LGB blocks, green scotchbrite pads and various abrasives on the end of a drywall pole. Others will chime in too.

In the end, I went battery power, but most folks get great results from track power with regular cleaning.
 
Welcome to the forum. First thing to know around here, is that you will receive a lot of well intentioned advice, but be aware of what is called 'thread drift' (where some wander off the question/subject). I can confidently predict, that within the first 10 posts on this thread, someone will try to tell you to do this, or do that, that does not help you, in fact will confuse you. But, we are all friends here.

Your problem, poor running.
Known probable cause, power pack.
Advice, yes, the Bachmann pack is probably too weak to run your line, given the 'length greater than the oval track on the lounge floor'. For successful track power operation, you need sufficient amps for the train, clean rails, and, clean wheels.
There is a wealth of information on this forum about keeping track clean etc. I am a user, and advocate, of track power, and have few problems, and hardly have to clean my brass rails. Check out my Taita Gorge Railway for a good read on how I've been there, done that, for the last 18 years.

011.JPG
 
Moisture can actually lower the resistance between the rails and "sap" power from the transformer. 60' of track will do it.

You can prove this to yourself if you measure the resistance between the rails (with the transformer disconnected) when things are dry and things are wet.

But that should not be erratic running.... when it is erratic, is the problem in the same place?

Also ditch that transformer, they are junk, sorry.

Greg
 
Clean track = reliable running.

And as others have mentioned, a good power unit is essential.

You are learning fast, as we all have!

BTW, welcome to GSC...
 
You may also have issues with your Track Joiners. Greg hinted at this. Best solution is to use Track Clamps, this certainly gets rid permanently of ine of he buggest issues. If your finances will not run to clamps you can bond each joint by soldering wire accross the gaps. Allow a little extra wire for the track to flex.
 
My layout is more modest, but like you I was using a small Bachmann controller, thought I didn't find I needed to do much track cleaning, however that was during this rather warm summer. I did find the LGB track pad useful for those areas where there was a "stutter".
 
It's down to preparation. When first laying down your line make sure all the track joints/joiners/power connectors are clean and bright where the surfaces mate, then apply some sort of oxidization inhibitor to these joints before putting it all together - such as Massoth/LGB graphite paste. If you can use track clamps, either over joiner or direct to rail, use those as well. They don't just improve/ensure better long term electrical conductivity they also hold track formations together better. You can physically "bond" the rails, as Jon has suggested, but that can add complications if you have just started your layout and want to alter and grow.

Check the loco's pick ups and wheels for dirt and contamination - that can cause uneven running. Believe it or not "smoke oil" makes a good crud remover. Dip a cotton bud (Q-tip ?) in so of it and clean around the full circumference of all wheels that pick up current and any pick up skates - now look at the cotton bud. Do not use abrasives to clean these parts as you will be "keying" the surfaces to collect more crud. Is your line laid on a hard surface/ballast or grass and how much planting is around it ? Keep it clean within the "four foot". Amazing how little of the green stuff is required to turn a solid runner into a stuttering wreck.

Most locos, dependent on load conditions, will pull around 1.5 amps. More locos at one time, more amps. Get a reasonably powerful one from the outset. I have a Crest that can put out a thumping 20 amps if needed - bit of overkill but the model shop had a good salesman when I started 15 years ago.

Now go invest in an LGB 50050 (Google it) and fit it to a short wagon. Max


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Weavervegas1 said:
I have recently installed a 60' track around my outdoor fountain pond. Every time I use it, it needs the track cleaned with the LGB cleaner pad. The loco and rolling stock are secured out of the weather, as is the transformer, and I don't understand why it always runs erratically after a rain, or even overnight with a dew the next morning. After cleaning, it seems to run fine for several hours. I'm using the transformer for a Bachmann Big Hauler set, and wonder if a more powerful amperage would solve this problem. The track has two power connectors, located midway around the track from each other, and fed by the one transformer.

Please help me solve this annoying issue.

Thanks very much!

Terry
Click to expand...

Terry,

i suspect is its just normal dirt rain water isn't clean remember, leave a wagon out for a week and take a look at the splash back from the rain on the sides and the under side that will tell you the story of why you get a bit of erratic running its some thing we all suffer with.
 
As others have said..
Also, if you have the carbon brushes rubbing on the inside face of the wheels, then give that area a light cleaning as well..

If you invert a loco, you can use the continuity setting (a bleep) on your meter, to check that all wheels and skates down each side of the loco are picking up and connecting to each other. - Problems, clean wheel-backs, treads on tyres.. Check skates move up and down freely. Check carbon brushes move in and out freely.

Frequent running also helps to keep things moving.. Leave it for a few days and you mat have to clean the track.

Remember, if the wheels etc. are dirty, then cleaning the track will not solve your problems.. I would service the loco(s), then rub-over the track. Then work on other loco's before you run them. - Makes the job more manageable.

If the track is damp, the drywall sander, with a couple of layers of an old towel wrapped round it will remove the dampness, ans a remarkable amount of muck.

Welcome to the Forum, and enjoy all aspects of looking after and running your railway!
PhilP.
 
Hello..and welcome to the madness...
Could you tell us what power surplly ie ampage you are useing.
I suspect lack of power
 
maxi-model said:
It's down to preparation. When first laying down your line make sure all the track joints/joiners/power connectors are clean and bright where the surfaces mate, then apply some sort of oxidization inhibitor to these joints before putting it all together - such as Massoth/LGB graphite paste. If you can use track clamps, either over joiner or direct to rail, use those as well. They don't just improve/ensure better long term electrical conductivity they also hold track formations together better. You can physically "bond" the rails, as Jon has suggested, but that can add complications if you have just started your layout and want to alter and grow................. Max
Click to expand...

Completely agree with the above - having quite recently got my own track down at long last (after fifteen years of collecting and preparing...!), I was determined to do it "right" from the start - so every track joint has been clamped (mostly Massoth clamps, though others work just fine too), long sections of track (Aristo big curves, LGB/Piko 4-foot and AMS 6-foot straight lengths) used wherever possible to reduce the number of joints, a little dab of graphite paste in every clamp before connecting it up - and every rail-end thoroughly cleaned with a powerful descaler gel after removal of the push-on joiners, before fitting the clamps. My track is a mix of half a dozen brands, both new and second-hand sections.
So far, it all seems to be paying dividends in reliable and easy running, and hopefully will continue to do so.
I'm using DCC track power from a Massoth 12-amp Dimax 1200Z unit, and also have an LGB track-cleaning loco that gets a couple of laps of the circuit anytime I haven't run a train for a few days.

Good preparation, good joints and plenty of power seems to be the key elements......

Jon.
 
I'm using a Bachmann 1 amp power supply, and it works well when the track and pickups are clean.
I thank all members who responded so quickly and helpfully, and will probably buy a PIKO battery powered track cleaner, which should be available soon. Expensive, but easier on this old man's knees than the LGB cleaning pad!

Thanks again!
 
Weavervegas1 said:
I will probably buy a PIKO battery powered track cleaner, which should be available soon.
Click to expand...
Terry

you might need to check this carefully, as my understanding of this loco is that only the cleaning pad works on battery. The loco itself works on track power.

If you do purchase one, it would be interesting to see how it performs with tarnished track....
 
Weavervegas1 said:
I'm using a Bachmann 1 amp power supply, and it works well when the track and pickups are clean.
I thank all members who responded so quickly and helpfully, and will probably buy a PIKO battery powered track cleaner, which should be available soon. Expensive, but easier on this old man's knees than the LGB cleaning pad!

Thanks again!
Click to expand...


OK, I would say that your highest priority would be to get yourself a new and more powerful unit. Regardless of the track cleaning issue, it's not going to be long before you find yourself wanting to run a loco that demands more than just 1 amp..... if you're planning on staying with analogue DC power, I would suggest something with 5 amps output as a minimum.

Jon.
 
Gizzy said:
Terry

you might need to check this carefully, as my understanding of this loco is that only the cleaning pad works on battery. The loco itself works on track power.

If you do purchase one, it would be interesting to see how it performs with tarnished track....
Click to expand...


Not sure where that info comes from, Giz? I was under the impression that the thing runs on battery OR track power, switchable, and the battery power does indeed do the loco propulsion when switched that way - I had also assumed that the track cleaning elements were simply "dumb" cleaning pads, not anything powered in any way....... but, I haven't seen any very recent info on the loco, so what I understood may all be out of date now!

Jon.
 
Zerogee said:
Not sure where that info comes from, Giz? I was under the impression that the thing runs on battery OR track power, switchable, and the battery power does indeed do the loco propulsion when switched that way - I had also assumed that the track cleaning elements were simply "dumb" cleaning pads, not anything powered in any way....... but, I haven't seen any very recent info on the loco, so what I understood may all be out of date now!

Jon.
Click to expand...
Thought I'd read it on here, but I could be wrong? Wouldn't be the first time!

If it is indeed 'bi-mode', then, to quote the Fat Controller, it will be a very useful engine.

Jimmy's post and linky seems to confirm this? Might have to buy one myself....
 
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