Best track options for price.

[Dbarefoot12]

I was curious to see if hand laying track is more feasible than buying Bachmann, or LGB track? I worked for a Class 2 MOW contractor for a number of years, and love building track, though my only problem is that I'm not familiar with companies that supply G scale rail. Is it cheaper to build your own tracks, or is it a better idea to buy premade track?

Thank ya'll
~Dusten

 

[Paul M]

Obviously it's quicker to use pre-made track, and LGB especially, is known for its robustness. I've no idea the availability of bits in America for self building track, but it doesn't always make it cheaper than pre-made. More fun though making your own though I would imagine.
See Igor's posts, re track building.

 

[dunnyrail]

I built all the track for my former line in Luton. Was a real pain using brass pins in wood sleepers that kept lifting due to expansion and contraction of wood through damp dry cycles. Steel pins would have been better but then you encounter rust issues unless you regularly oil the sleepers with old engine oil, not very environmentally friendly!

Cost wise not a lot to choose in plain track, but big savings in cost come with point-work (switches).

 

[maxi-model]

Generally you should be able to buy "flexi" rail code 200 - 332 (rail height in thou") in 1.5 m or 6' lengths without ties, in the US. Mostly flat bottomed. These are the rail types most suited to the garden rail world and "G Scale" type products. Then you would be advised to buy a rail bender to ensure accurate progressive curvature for any formation. What you use for ties would be up to you. Check around the F & 10 mm (gauge 1) scale communities as there may by suppliers for wooden ties and chairs to suit certain rail profiles. We have them in the UK.

However if reliability and functionality are what you prioritise then it would be best to order your flexi rail with matching premade UV resistant ties and use set track where suitable, like switches and crossings. Not all rail types can be mixed an matched easily, especially to ties with premade chairs. Code 332 types are the most robust and usually cross compatible, by make, although their set track geometry may have variances.

Have a look here Sunset Valley Railroad
Max
Edit, sorted some typos.

 

[Ansley11]

I was curious to see if hand laying track is more feasible than buying Bachmann, or LGB track? I worked for a Class 2 MOW contractor for a number of years, and love building track, though my only problem is that I'm not familiar with companies that supply G scale rail. Is it cheaper to build your own tracks, or is it a better idea to buy premade track?

Thank ya'll
~Dusten

There's a couple good suppliers of rail in the USA, that have semi reasonable prices. They are Llegas Creek and Sunset Valley Railroad. Also, try TrainLi. Plus you can get PIKO, I think LGB, and maybe others rail only.

 

[Dbarefoot12]

Well I was pricing rail, vs LGB/Bachmann track, and when it comes down to it, neither one of them are cheap "for me that is haha" Though when figuring everything together, it's actually about 60$ cheaper where I am. Also I loved laying rail in real life, so I believe this may be just as good. I have plenty of scrap wood, and I have an idea on what nails I'll be using for spikes. No tie plates here in 1881.

Thank you all
~Dusten

 

[Alan McLennan]

I bought 332 flex rail in 4m lengths for $20 per rail, the sleepers were $46 for enough to do the 4mtrs. Sliding them on was brain numbing and I'm glad I went that route
as I'm sure I would of got bored with the whole idea hand laying and moved on. One idea I had thought about trying was slotted sleepers with 3mm flat bar on edge as the rail
could be the go you are looking for if you wont cheap Dunsten..

 

[Paul M]

neither one of them are cheap "for me that is haha"

I don't thing anyone would disagree that your railway in the garden is not going to be cheap in money terms, it's the amount of enjoyment you get out of it that makes it worth it. Making your own track has probably more benefits than saving a few Bob.

 

[dunnyrail]

Less is more, plan out a modest line that can grow as your finances allow.

 

[Fred2179G]

I have plenty of scrap wood, and I have an idea on what nails I'll be using for spikes.

I laid my garden railroad with some handmaid track, but I quickly decided to build my own switches and buy plain track, as hand spiking is very boring. I used rail and separate tie strips on the plain track.

Redwood and cedar are best outdoors, as most wood will rot due to contact with moisture. You could use pine and liberally apply wood preservative every year.

Scale spikes are/were readily available from Micro-Engineering. Don't use stainless, as the lack of rust means they will work themselves out. Regular steel rusts into the wood of the ties, and the rust on the head protects the steel, so they work well.

Pre-drilling the tie for the spike makes it much easier to insert them, especially in redwood which has hard rings. I used a small Dremel cordless drill.

There were spiking tools for smaller scales, but I never found a satisfactory one for g-1.

I used code 250 aluminum, which is much more scale size, but subject to damage from human or animal feet. I sprayed the rail rusty brown primer before using it.

 

[korm kormsen]

Less is more, plan out a modest line that can grow as your finances allow.

See Igor's posts, re track building.

slotted sleepers with 3mm flat bar on edge as the rail

only thing to add - be creative!
when my wife wanted new curtain-rails... they never made it past my hobby-room.

 

[GAP]

I laid my garden railroad with some handmaid track, but I quickly decided to build my own switches and buy plain track, as hand spiking is very boring. I used rail and separate tie strips on the plain track.

Redwood and cedar are best outdoors, as most wood will rot due to contact with moisture. You could use pine and liberally apply wood preservative every year.

Scale spikes are/were readily available from Micro-Engineering. Don't use stainless, as the lack of rust means they will work themselves out. Regular steel rusts into the wood of the ties, and the rust on the head protects the steel, so they work well.

Pre-drilling the tie for the spike makes it much easier to insert them, especially in redwood which has hard rings. I used a small Dremel cordless drill.

There were spiking tools for smaller scales, but I never found a satisfactory one for g-1.

I used code 250 aluminum, which is much more scale size, but subject to damage from human or animal feet. I sprayed the rail rusty brown primer before using it.

I use one of these on micro-engineering large spikes when making points/turnouts.
I predrill using a 0.8 mm pcb drill in a rotary tool my sellpers/ties are made by ripping treated pine fence palings or garden edging, which is better as it is made to be in contact into soil.
We have a termite problem here and untreated timber is just asking for trouble.

Spike Insertion Plier

Buy our Micro-Mark Spike Insertion Plier for only $24.50

micromark.com

All my track is flexitrack as I found in the early days of HO that it is far easier to use when designing and building a layout, mistakes can be blended out.

 

[ge_rik]

Gregh has been making his own track for years. He too has a termite problem (His railway is the Sandstone & Termite)

Rik