BERLYN RGS 20

daveyb

daveyb

badger tickling, sheep worrying
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any one know anything about these locos,, its the latest addition to the dust collecting section in the attic,,,,,

runs well part from the bogie was detached in the box and every time i fit it it shorts out,,

there is no parts breakdown and i cant find one,,,

any one have any dealings with these,, are parts available or have they gone bust

the bogie has some paint removed so i dont know if its been modified,,, its attached by a pin with a washer and a spring,, is anything missing and what is the correct orientation for the bogie,,

and the sound connection pin has a wire pulled out,,, do i just replace it with another make,,

all info welcome

daveyb
 
ahhhh steve that would make sense as the bogie was totally dismantled and i just threw it together

on yours is the bogie connected by the pin only,,, which fits in the banana slot cut in the bogie

and does the narrow part of the bogie face fwd or back,,, and is the banana slot to the top or bottom

cheers dave

ps forgot you had 22
 
Hi Dave
are you selling this loco?
 
mike i have just bought it,,,,, i think steve at back 2 bay 6 has no 22 but its weathered,,,

did not see it though,,

there is a late version 20 on usa ebay for rather too much money,,, under berlyn

ironically this is the version i was after,,,

dave
 
If the bogie was completely dismanlted, make sure both wheel sets are the correct way around. that is, with the insulated wheels on the same side....maybe try the bogie on the track on it's own to make sure it doesn't short?
 
New Haven Neil said:
If the bogie was completely dismanlted, make sure both wheel sets are the correct way around. that is, with the insulated wheels on the same side....maybe try the bogie on the track on it's own to make sure it doesn't short?
Click to expand...

Good thinking Batman, but I reckon I can see insulating washers on both LH wheels.

The problem with brass rolling stock is that sometimes wheel flanges touch bare metal. I had to raise my brass caboose on its bogies with penny washers to help it get over the bottom of a gradient where the track was a bit ruff.
 
OK, wot about turning both wheelsets around the other way?

It's bound to be something stupidly simple - and obvious (after you've worked it out) 8|
 
just done a continuity check and all the wheels are insulated, the centres are plastic so i think the bogie is fine,,

there is no insulating washers, each wheel set is an assembly consisting of two wheels, axel and axel boxes which fit in the bogie frame against 4 springs,,,, and two long strips screw along each side to keep them in place,,,

so the bogie frame can only get current from one side via the body attaching screw,,

what i think is happening is the bogie is fitted incorrectly, or something is missing in the attaching parts as the only way i can fit it shorts through the wheel rim touching the frame which makes sense with what steve mentioned earlier,,,

i think something is missing,,,

maby!!
 
daveyb said:
just done a continuity check and all the wheels are insulated, the centres are plastic so i think the bogie is fine,,

there is no insulating washers, each wheel set is an assembly consisting of two wheels, axel and axel boxes which fit in the bogie frame against 4 springs,,,, and two long strips screw along each side to keep them in place,,,

so the bogie frame can only get current from one side via the body attaching screw,,

what i think is happening is the bogie is fitted incorrectly, or something is missing in the attaching parts as the only way i can fit it shorts through the wheel rim touching the frame which makes sense with what steve mentioned earlier,,,

i think something is missing,,,

maby!!
Click to expand...

Has the location of the bogie mounting plate been fiddled with - changing the forward/backwards location to make something touch.

It wouldn't seem to be a height problem as the loco sits OK on the drivers. Or are the drivers sprung, and does it also rely on the springing on the bogie pivot to get it to its proper ride height, so that the frames are above the bogie flanges?
 
there is paint scuffing which is suspicious,,, but without a comparison i have no idea if the bogie is modified,, the loco seems to have no run time and has been a shelf queen,,,

its almost as if there is a link or some thing missing in the attaching of the bogie,,, its not quite right,,

FATsteve has a rgs 22 hopefully he can tell me some more info on how its mounted to the body,,,
 
The more I look at it, the more I think it could be a spring problem. that would lift the front end of the loco slightly, and thus stop the frames from touching the flanges.

It could be that the sprung front driver is just sitting a tad too far up in its hornblocks?

Try it and see - even if you can only pack it out with a washer temporarily?
 
Rhinochugger said:
New Haven Neil said:
If the bogie was completely dismanlted, make sure both wheel sets are the correct way around. that is, with the insulated wheels on the same side....maybe try the bogie on the track on it's own to make sure it doesn't short?
Click to expand...

Good thinking Batman, but I reckon I can see insulating washers on both LH wheels.

The problem with brass rolling stock is that sometimes wheel flanges touch bare metal. I had to raise my brass caboose on its bogies with penny washers to help it get over the bottom of a gradient where the track was a bit ruff.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I saw that too Chuggy, but thought it was worth a try - maybe the insulation was breached in some way for pick-up purposes. Seen that on HO brass.

I think you're on the right track with the flanges/springs though.

PS - Isn't that a BEEYOOTEEFUL model!!!
 
the spring is quite small,,, maby one is missing,, or a spacer,, either way i think its missing something

also,, one of the wires had pulled out of the connector i thaught i would try and fix it using copper superglue

as used by plumbers where fire is a risk and soldering to dangerous etc

removed the tender connector, dug the old wires out with a pin, cleaned a couple of mm of the end of the 3 wires and blobed a bit of glue in with a pin

did it one at time letting each one set and hey ho it worked,,, no soldering and its merrilly chuffing away

how long it will last is another matter but so far so good,,,
 
No, no, I think you're completely on the wrong tack. NHN's got it right, it's a very luvverly model, and I think it needs a bit of testing down here in deepest Sussex :rolf::rolf::rolf::rolf::rolf:
 
always fancied a trip back to bognor!!

always remember a place called pagham,,, full of old railway coaches turned into holiday homes

happy days!
 
A visit to the Isle of Man would do it the world of good too, but given it has been assessed as fussy of track, perhaps my railway isn't the best place!!!
 
and yes its brittle, flimsy,, and poorly designed but a really nice model and a nice size,,

if i can get it going it will make me very happy and will no doubt collect more dust for me,,,,
 
daveyb said:
always fancied a trip back to bognor!!

always remember a place called pagham,,, full of old railway coaches turned into holiday homes

happy days!
Click to expand...

Now, now, you know what George V said about Bognor! Anyway, there are still a few railway carriages various places on the coast, we oftne take a Sunday afternoon stroll along the prom just down from Bognor, and there are a few there.

Let us know when your passing by, and just happen to have a Berlyn 10-wheeler in the boot :laugh::laugh:
 
yes steve,,,, ive had it chuffing around my test track,, well i say test track, test bend more like

sounds looks great , runs ok too apart from the bogie,,,

because i dont know which way the bogie goes and if the fixings i hve are correct im struggling,,

ive had it running and had the bogie on the track at the same time both ways no probs,,

but as i fit it with the bits ive got the wheel rims hit the frame so theres a circuit mde from track to frame
 
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