a98087
Registered
Heres a few pics and words as to how Ive shortened some LGB toytrain open wagons.
Firstly heres the disclaimer: Its my way, its not the best or the worst its just the way I did it.
Firstly choose a wagon. I choose to build a rake of yellow ones
Then dismantle the wagon to all its component parts. Its easy to do as theres a screw in each corner, and the end railings and brake hanger just clip to the chassis
On the wagon body itself you need to remove the moulded axle pivot and raised screw holes from one end.
Then turn the chassis upside down and you will see that there are 2 air tanks. The round one will be removed and the longer rectangle one will be shortened.
On the the longer tank, there are 2 moulded lines. Its just a case of making 2 cuts through the chassis inside on the lines.
You are also able to keep the brake hanger attached to the chassis
You can then end up with a strip of plastic, which is identical in width to the round air tank.
At this point is best to cut off the buffer beam
After that you just need to remove the end balcony using a combination of modellers knife, dremel and a file- this is needed so that the chassis fits flush to its new location.
Now its just a case of trimming the solebars so that the buffer beam can be attached to its new home.
For couplings you have a problem in that one wheelset has a long shank and one has a short shank. You can keep and reuse the short shank but the long shank one is an issue.
You therefore have the follwoing options
cut the shank to length and glue
obtain a short shank wheelset
cut the coupling off and run the wagons as fixed pairs with lgb couplings on the outside.
Also if you want retain the swivelling axles then you need to add on a pivot
Dan
Firstly heres the disclaimer: Its my way, its not the best or the worst its just the way I did it.
Firstly choose a wagon. I choose to build a rake of yellow ones
Then dismantle the wagon to all its component parts. Its easy to do as theres a screw in each corner, and the end railings and brake hanger just clip to the chassis
On the wagon body itself you need to remove the moulded axle pivot and raised screw holes from one end.
Then turn the chassis upside down and you will see that there are 2 air tanks. The round one will be removed and the longer rectangle one will be shortened.
On the the longer tank, there are 2 moulded lines. Its just a case of making 2 cuts through the chassis inside on the lines.
You are also able to keep the brake hanger attached to the chassis
You can then end up with a strip of plastic, which is identical in width to the round air tank.
At this point is best to cut off the buffer beam
After that you just need to remove the end balcony using a combination of modellers knife, dremel and a file- this is needed so that the chassis fits flush to its new location.
Now its just a case of trimming the solebars so that the buffer beam can be attached to its new home.
For couplings you have a problem in that one wheelset has a long shank and one has a short shank. You can keep and reuse the short shank but the long shank one is an issue.
You therefore have the follwoing options
cut the shank to length and glue
obtain a short shank wheelset
cut the coupling off and run the wagons as fixed pairs with lgb couplings on the outside.
Also if you want retain the swivelling axles then you need to add on a pivot
Dan