Bachmann tram motor fault

[PhilP]

All,
Have a Bachmann Christmas tram, which refuses to run.
Initially, I thought it was missing one of the square silver contacts adjacent to the motor. - These pass current from the pickups to the motor et al. However, I replaced the missing piece with a couple of bits of folded wire.. Lights are rock solid, but motor refuses to run well (if at all).
Even if lift the motor clear of the gears, and put power directly to it in stalls. - I think the brushes are shot, as it arcs internally.

I have two choices:
1. Try to source a new motor. - Led to believe these motor blocks can be problematic anyway, so this might be false economy.
2. Replace the block with something else. - I have a USA Trains block (sort of) bought for this purpose. Would need to cut the axle-ends which protrude beyond the wheels. Wheels are a lot smaller diameter, but look better IMHO. Drill motor block for 'skirt', does give me the option to increase the track clearance a bit.

Second option a bit scary.. Having-at a new motor-block. Probably trimming the wiring mounts off the tram, and fabricating some sort of mount for the alternate motor-block.

Anyone any brilliant thoughts, or alternatives please?

PhilP.

 

[tramcar trev]

I buy these non working. Usually the reason is that the motor has a blob of melted plastic in it where the brush holders overheat and melt.... Yours sounds as if a partial melt has occurred causing the brushes to be running off centre causing the arcing at the Commutator. Have you tried running it both ways? I'm not sure if you can buy a new motor from Bachmann. I have actually replaced one but it did need a lathe and some brass to make joiners for the shafts to use the existing gears coupled up to a new motor...

 

[andyspencer]

Ironically I spoke to Bachmann earlier this week about parts for this model. They've got new motors for around £14 but you'll new the worm gears off the old motor.
I'm after 2 worm gears if anybody knows of any going...

 

[PhilP]

Andy,
Is that Bachmann UK (at Barwell I believe)? - Just 'down the road' from me (Tamworth). Might give them a ring..
Believe it is possible to heat the gear, and the motor more-or-less drops out of the worm?
Have very little Bachmann 'bits' so am unable to help with worms..
Think Shourtline in the States would be able to help??
Pity we do not have a similar outlet here.

 

[LVT]

Phil,
Having struggled with the supplied motor block on an open tram, I capitulated and cut out the floor to insert a Playmobil and then an LGB block. As the top of the block is visible under the seats, the result is best viewed from distance, but as it moves quietly and reliably, to me the trade-off is worth it. Your closed body should overcome this disadvantage. Using a holesaw at low speed (the body is fragile) to drill a series of holes gives you an opening that requires minimal trimming and filing. Simple brackets can be improvised to hold the block to the body, and the wiring is elementary.

 

[PhilP]

Thanks for the encouragement Arthur..
The wiring I can do, no problem there.. It is more mechanical side of things which 'scares' me! - Not taking apart, and putting back together, but the 'cutting & shutting'.
I seem to have trouble with concepts such as 'straight', 'square', and the like. Probably just practice, and under the tram won't matter too much!
Not sure how prices compare with here, but I tend to think motors, and motor-blocks, are rather expensive over here.
:thumbdown:

 

[tramcar trev]

Andy,
Is that Bachmann UK (at Barwell I believe)? - Just 'down the road' from me (Tamworth). Might give them a ring..
Believe it is possible to heat the gear, and the motor more-or-less drops out of the worm?
Have very little Bachmann 'bits' so am unable to help with worms..
Think Shourtline in the States would be able to help??
Pity we do not have a similar outlet here.

Yes, to get the worm off the shaft proceed as follows; clamp the motor in something like a vyse, then with a micro butane torch heat only the worm while at the same time using a pair of small long nose pliers tap it toward the end of the shaft. When the worm gets hot enough it will tap off; just be gentle and try not to get any heat onto the shaft. It took me 2 or 10 attempts to do it first time but when I got the knack its simple really. if the shaft gets to hot and it will get hot from conduction via the brass worm let it cool and repeat....
Getting the worm back on again is a bit easier. drill a hole the size of the shaft in a bit of brass, line the worm up and tap it on gently when the shaft appears through the hole in the worm let the shaft slide into the hole and keep tapping until the worm is where you want it. OR take it to a hobby shop and they could easily press it off and on for a small fee or for free if you are a "customer".....
Who wanted some worms? I'll have a look I may have some surplus to requirements that I'd be prepared to exchange for postage...

 

[nicebutdim]

I fitted a USAT NW-2 block in my tram. The floor had to be cut out and a new, higher floor put in as the block is a bit taller. To be honest I don't notice the floor difference as it is between the benches. The difference in running is great, it's quiet, smooth and reliable.

 

[trammayo]

Personally, apart from quality issues, I quite like the sound of the Bachmann tram truck! Very evocative of the first generation tramways.

Alyn (on the forum) has converted many to a new motor block - maybe he could offer his experience too (because I've got a cream-crackered one as well ).

 

[PhilP]

Andy,
Is that Bachmann UK (at Barwell I believe)? - Just 'down the road' from me (Tamworth). Might give them a ring..
Believe it is possible to heat the gear, and the motor more-or-less drops out of the worm?
Have very little Bachmann 'bits' so am unable to help with worms..
Think Shourtline in the States would be able to help??
Pity we do not have a similar outlet here.

Yes, to get the worm off the shaft proceed as follows; clamp the motor in something like a vyse, then with a micro butane torch heat only the worm while at the same time using a pair of small long nose pliers tap it toward the end of the shaft. When the worm gets hot enough it will tap off; just be gentle and try not to get any heat onto the shaft. It took me 2 or 10 attempts to do it first time but when I got the knack its simple really. if the shaft gets to hot and it will get hot from conduction via the brass worm let it cool and repeat....
Getting the worm back on again is a bit easier. drill a hole the size of the shaft in a bit of brass, line the worm up and tap it on gently when the shaft appears through the hole in the worm let the shaft slide into the hole and keep tapping until the worm is where you want it. OR take it to a hobby shop and they could easily press it off and on for a small fee or for free if you are a "customer".....
Who wanted some worms? I'll have a look I may have some surplus to requirements that I'd be prepared to exchange for postage...

Andy Spencer (post #3) was after worms..
What sort of cost would postage be from 'down there'?
As long as we are not talking NZ flat-worms! - Apparently, these blighters are now causing problems in the UK. :thumbdown::crying:

 

[themole]

Hi Phil, I have converted seven Bachmann trams using Buhler motors from Proops (google for their web and location) You will need to keep the axles and wheels from the tram, but will need a new gear wheel, in brass, that will mesh with the worm on the new motor (mine came with worms on the motor shaft) I bought my Buhler motors off Proops about ten years ago, as a job lot, at a model engineering show. I think I paid about £1 per motor and at the time;- bought twenty, along with some brass gears plus some other items. I have found Proops very good. I would give them a phone and have a talk to them... they are very helpful. Alyn

 

[andyspencer]

All this talk of brass worms - the similar model that I've got that's complete has white nylon gears including the worms throughout...
The offer of worms from Trev may be very helpful. i'd be grateful if you do have something suitable, to let me know how much.
Phil, yep Bachmann UK I called. Once the right guy called me back, he was very helpful.

 

[PhilP]

Thanks to everyones encouragement here, I have obtained a motor.. Sweated the worms off (gas hob and heat mat from my 'plumbing' box). - Old motor did nor survive this well!

Got it wired-up, and it works!! A bit noisy on the rollers, but at normal track speed should be OK.
However, I wired pickups, motor, and lights in parallel.. My motor block had one of the top-to-bottom power passing silver bits missing.. Lights are VERY dim unless I put about 12v onto the track.
does anyone know if the lights / motor should be wired differently to this please?

 

[LVT]

You might want to consider putting in a bridge rectifier with a 7805 5 volt regulator and then putting 6 volt bulbs in the sockets for the interior. 6 volt miniature bulbs could be placed in the headlights, though with difficulty because the removal of the lenses is not fun. Worth the effort, however.

 

[tramcar trev]

Phil, I converted all my Bachmann trams to use warm white leds. Mine have 8 leads in them, 4 are used in the illuminated destination boxes and I used a 1 single 150 ohm resistor as I wired the leds in parallel. if you are just going to replace the globes with leds and use 4 then a 270 ohm resistor can be used. For a while I did use a voltage regulator but that needed 7 volts before it had enough voltage to work. The resistor seems to work from start up....
The head light lenses are easy to poke out from behind by pushing the globe forward. The polarity feature of the leds can be utilised to give directional lighting. By driving the leds at 3v and 10mA they give a very acceptable and realistic level of illumination.

 

[PhilP]

Thanks for that..
This is a Christmas tram, and am not bothered about destination board lights. - I only have this week to get things working!

I presume you used a 'bridge' for the internal roof lights?

PhilP.

 

[LVT]

Phil


The 'bridge' would be necessary for the regulator or for direct connection of led's if used for the interior lighting.

 

[tramcar trev]

Another thought... I have been contemplating making an "Illuminated Tram" ah la Blackpool and this idea may appeal to you. Go to your local "Cheap" shop and buy a string of battery powered leds and decorate your tram with them. I bought a few sets this year for $1 each to wrap pressies with....

 

[wayne kofoed]

All,
Have a Bachmann Christmas tram, which refuses to run.
Initially, I thought it was missing one of the square silver contacts adjacent to the motor. - These pass current from the pickups to the motor et al. However, I replaced the missing piece with a couple of bits of folded wire.. Lights are rock solid, but motor refuses to run well (if at all).
Even if lift the motor clear of the gears, and put power directly to it in stalls. - I think the brushes are shot, as it arcs internally.

I have two choices:
1. Try to source a new motor. - Led to believe these motor blocks can be problematic anyway, so this might be false economy.
2. Replace the block with something else. - I have a USA Trains block (sort of) bought for this purpose. Would need to cut the axle-ends which protrude beyond the wheels. Wheels are a lot smaller diameter, but look better IMHO. Drill motor block for 'skirt', does give me the option to increase the track clearance a bit.

Second option a bit scary.. Having-at a new motor-block. Probably trimming the wiring mounts off the tram, and fabricating some sort of mount for the alternate motor-block.

Anyone any brilliant thoughts, or alternatives please?

PhilP.

you can get new motor block from bachmann online large scale parts hope it helps.

 

[PhilP]

you can get new motor block from bachmann online large scale parts hope it helps.

Thanks Wayne..
I found a brand new replacement motor was about £15 from Bachmann Europe..