Bachmann ten wheeler - Remove wheels from axle

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brownmat

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May I ask if anyone has managed to remove the wheels from the axles on a Bachmann ten wheeler? If it helps, my understanding is that this is a V5 chassis model number 81098 which I think makes it an Anniversary.

I am trying to add a new chuff sensor to the front axle, to repurpose an old LGB sound card and really trying not to break anything!

Thanks in advance!
 
brownmat said:
May I ask if anyone has managed to remove the wheels from the axles on a Bachmann ten wheeler? If it helps, my understanding is that this is a V5 chassis model number 81098 which I think makes it an Anniversary.

I am trying to add a new chuff sensor to the front axle, to repurpose an old LGB sound card and really trying not to break anything!

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Think I would be tempted to go for a reed switch and magnets for that job.
 
The centre cap of the wheel should be removable. Under which is a screw.
It would be easier to simply add 4 x magnets on the back of a driver to trigger a reed switch.
 
I have repurposed LGB Sumpter valley sound cards for four of my Annies.
I put the cards in the tenders and put the hall sender and magnets on one tender bogie and wheel. This was connected into the sound card.
Because the LGB sound card would have originally been triggered by an axle arrangement of magnets (8 poles in all 4 north 4 south to switch on and off the hall sensor), I used eight small neodymium magnets around one wheel rim (N-S-N-S-N-S-N-S).
 
Thank you all very much for your suggestions. If anyone has any photos of their install, I would be most interested to see!

Thanks again.
 
brownmat said:
Thank you all very much for your suggestions. If anyone has any photos of their install, I would be most interested to see!

Thanks again.
Click to expand...
I did post a whole thread about it some time back but I think that the photos of the install have long gone from the server
Here is the thread
www.gscalecentral.net

LGB sumpter/uintah soundboard now in place in Bachmann Annie and it works for £30!

As I have had a bit of a problem with inconsistent chuffs when using reed switches or the Bachmann Annie chuff trigger with the Uintah/Sumper mallet soundboards that I am putting in the Annie tenders, I am going to try hall effect sensors instead, as these are what LGB use for most of their in...
www.gscalecentral.net www.gscalecentral.net

here are the photos from my backup:

Old sound system to be taken out

old sound system.jpg


LGB Sumpter mallet sound board in situ

sound board in situ.jpg

Hall sensor in place

hall sensor in place.jpg

showing cables

showing the cable to led.jpg

Sound plug

sound plugs.jpg

volume control accessible through the water filler

sound volume control.jpg
 
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brownmat said:
May I ask if anyone has managed to remove the wheels from the axles on a Bachmann ten wheeler? If it helps, my understanding is that this is a V5 chassis model number 81098 which I think makes it an Anniversary.

I am trying to add a new chuff sensor to the front axle, to repurpose an old LGB sound card and really trying not to break anything!

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
The wheels come off easily once you’ve removed the plastic spoke/rim/cover that sits in front of the Actual metal wheel
This first stage is the tricky bit. I use a combination of watch makers screw drivers, fine sharpe bladed knife and small pliers to prize off the cover
This exposes the axle end and Phillips headed screw that holds the wheel to the axle end/stub.
I’ve done this successfully on a number of occasions , indeed I was doing it this afternoon to alter a ten wheeler chassis into a 4-8-0
Good luck
Chris
 
As always, thank you all for your assistance. I will certainly take a look at the tender alternative! The pictures are excellent guides - thanks.

Should I ever need to actually remove a wheel (to maybe change a gear etc), can it be confirmed that all the wheels come off in the way described above? You must move very carefully Chris! I have had a prod around, and I can't see the join to even try and insert a scalpel blade - let along prise a cap off! I don't suppose you have any photos?
 
Oh yeah - are those blue and grey things wire connectors? They look like toothpaste caps? I have seen them before, but never really understood how they operate as it looks like you just press the wires in and twist? Great looking coal load!
 
They are called "wire nuts" and often used in older Botchmann locos.

There is a metal conical spring inside, and as you twist it on, it twists the wires in contact, as well as providing electrical conductivity from the metal spring.

wire_nut.jpg
 
Ahh! I see now. I had no idea what they where called or that they had a metal inside. Thank you very much! Fab!
 
Greg Elmassian said:
They are called "wire nuts" and often used in older Botchmann locos.

There is a metal conical spring inside, and as you twist it on, it twists the wires in contact, as well as providing electrical conductivity from the metal spring.

wire_nut.jpg
Click to expand...
Also in older domestic lighting circuits, they used to be made from porcelain
 
brownmat said:
As always, thank you all for your assistance. I will certainly take a look at the tender alternative! The pictures are excellent guides - thanks.

Should I ever need to actually remove a wheel (to maybe change a gear etc), can it be confirmed that all the wheels come off in the way described above? You must move very carefully Chris! I have had a prod around, and I can't see the join to even try and insert a scalpel blade - let along prise a cap off! I don't suppose you have any photos?
Click to expand...
Push the cap outward from behind the "counterweight". It should move out enough for you to pry it off. KenIMG_20201207_125931961.jpgIMG_20201207_130017632.jpg
 

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Paul M said:
Also in older domestic lighting circuits, they used to be made from porcelain
Click to expand...
Quite often associated with 'double cotton-covered' cable! - They would just be loose in the void between ceiling and floor-boards above.

The porcelain ones, were glazed, and relied on the 'sharp' edge of the ceramic, to grip the wire..
 
Regarding the wheels:
Excellent photo's, Ken. - As with many tasks.. Easy, when you know how! :nerd::clap::clap:
 
Thank you very much indeed. Those photos have really cleared it up. I was trying to pry the centre cap off...no wonder it wouldn't move! Do all the wheels come off the same way, or only on certain axles?
 
brownmat said:
Thank you very much indeed. Those photos have really cleared it up. I was trying to pry the centre cap off...no wonder it wouldn't move! Do all the wheels come off the same way, or only on certain axles?
Click to expand...
Yes, I tried prying just the center cap (hub) off first. I think that it was Greg Elmassian that steered me in the right direction. All of my Bachmann Annie 4-6-0 drivers pry off this way, but I don't about other locomotives.
 
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