Bachman 2-4-2 Baldwin.

[Martino]

This is more an observation than anything else and relates to the latest model 'Lyn'.

Mine hasn't been used since last autumn as I needed to adjust the CVs on the sound card - the chuff was all wrong and the thing was too loud!

Anyway, I couldn't get it to run well at all today. I gave it an oil round, but it was the wheels that were the problem. Incredibly dirty. My other locos (most on LGB chassis, but also a Bachmann Davenport) don't attract nearly as much crud as the Baldwin. Despite cleaning with smoke oil and cleaning as much off so possible, they're still grotty. However it does run perfectly now. Has anyone else had dirty wheel problems with thus loco? I run all metal wheeled stock, and alway run a track cleaning loco before sessions. No live steam (yet!).

Adjusting the DCC card sound worked too. It was set up to work off the chuff device (cam sensor) on the axle, but that seems to be all wrong (perhaps that's dirty and gunged up too?). So switched over to the 'virtual cam sensor' and adjusted that to get a good wheel rotation/chuff ratio. It's better now! The decoder is a Zimo MX695 by the way.

Now if I could get my old model 'Lyn' running, I'd be happy. That seems to wobble along with a very strange motion! A bit like a drunk duck!

 

[Melbournesparks]

I converted mine to radio control, but visually the wheels always look clean. I don't actively clean them. I've noticed some bachmann wheels have a slightly pitted surface, different from the smooth shiny LGB wheels. Some people have mentioned it provides an easier surface for dirt to adhere to.

I built a track cleaning car that applies a thin film of water to the rail surface. It seems to work well for washing away the dust and fine particles that stick to wheels.

 

[dunnyrail]

Martino, Bachman Wheels have been problamatical for Years. Back In the early Days (1980's) I had an 0 Gauge Shunter. Ran like a dog, had to make up LGB Type Sketes to get it to run. Piko except for their latest G since the last Year or so are pretty much just as hopeless. Bettery for these appears to be the only way to go. Though you could I guess try a Massoth Stay Alive thingy (emotion Power Cap)

http://www.massoth.com/index.en.html

JonD

 

[Melbournesparks]

Though you could I guess try a Massoth Stay Alive thingy (emotion Power Cap)JonD

I ended up making something similar for my four wheel bachmann trams, using a pair of 47000uf capacitors. They store enough energy for the tram to run for about half a meter with no power, so now they run very smoothly even on my filthy track. I'm just using straight DC, they'd flatten out the pulses of PWM controllers. They also have the nice side effect of making the trams feel like they have some mass to them, coasting for a while after you shut off power.

 

[Martino]

Yes, good thoughts. I don't intend to go the battery route as I'm wedded to DCC which works well for me (most of the time!). I have got an electronic flywheel for it - just haven't been bothered to hook it up yet. That will probably help.
I'll try and keep its wheels clean in the meantime.

 

[dunnyrail]

I ended up making something similar for my four wheel bachmann trams, using a pair of 47000uf capacitors. They store enough energy for the tram to run for about half a meter with no power, so now they run very smoothly even on my filthy track. I'm just using straight DC, they'd flatten out the pulses of PWM controllers. They also have the nice side effect of making the trams feel like they have some mass to them, coasting for a while after you shut off power.

Interesting, do you run DCC or analogue? If DCC can you please post a wiring diagram plus show any other bits added as well. Confused as hell about Stay Alive, bought a Chip at Show for a 00 Loconand guy said just wire it in on DC side. But remember to get Polarity Right! Is that all there is to it?
JonD

 

[Melbournesparks]

Interesting, do you run DCC or analogue? If DCC can you please post a wiring diagram plus show any other bits added as well. Confused as hell about Stay Alive, bought a Chip at Show for a 00 Loconand guy said just wire it in on DC side. But remember to get Polarity Right! Is that all there is to it?
JonD

I only use analogue DC. The wiring is very simple, the capacitor is just connected in parallel with the motor. In reality the capacitors are polarity sensitive, so there is one for each direction with a diode to protect them from reverse polarity. Electrolytic capacitors can explode with the force of a small bomb if accidentally connected backwards!

I'm not familiar with the technical aspects of DCC so I'm not sure if it could be adapted. The capacitors have a powerful smoothing influence on the input voltage, so I think they'd flatten any DCC signal.

I went for the biggest capacitors I could accommodate, 47000uf They measure about 30x50mm. These take three or four seconds to discharge so will bridge some very major interruptions to power supply. If you only wanted to protect against momentary interruptions and were not interested in the momentum effect you could use some much physically smaller capacitors.

This is all there is to it, a pair of capacitors and pair of diodes. The two wires go to the motor:

 

[chris m01]

Mine was fine at first but then the wheels seemed to go dirty quickly. It has been converted to battery r/c as have all my small locos. The weight of the batteries also increases pulling power. Larger locos remain track powered. This works for me.
The larger locos and longer trains get most use During warm settled weather and the small battery locos with short trains which don't heed the track cleaned are used for quick running sessions when the weather is cold or unsettled.
For some reason the battery locos get the most use!

 

[dunnyrail]

Thanks for the explanation Mel, looks like I need to do some mire research for my 00 DCC setup.
JonD