Auto Trailer Build

J

jimmielx

45mm gauge track - approx 16mm scale (1:19)
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I decided to build an Auto Trailer in the style of the GWR AutoTrailers. Obviously the GW prototypes are standard gauge and I am modelling something like 16mm scale on 45mm gauge. I excuse this by imagining that the railway being modelled is an offshoot of the GW and looks to them for inspiration for stock (I've previously built a Railcar). That allows me to build something which I hope evokes the spirit of the prototype without needing to slavishly copy it. For starters I limit my coach lengths to just over 50cm, which is the length of my Brandbright VOR coaches which work a treat on my line. I had quite a lot of R1 curves, although I've recently eased all those on the mainline to a mixture of LGB R2 and Trainline R2.

The limit in length means straight away that the coach will be a shortened version, so where the prototype would have four passenger compartments I'm only having two. I've also opted that the non-driving end will be straight rather than curved like the driving end.

I'm using Obeche wood to build the model. It's a very workable material, significantly stronger the balsa, but easier to cut than ply. It comes in various sizes of small strip and very convenient 100mm wide planks which I use for the sides and base. The chassis is 3mm thick enforced by 10mm square frame. The sides are 1.5mm timber which makes cutting the windows out easier - although the sides do end up with three thicknesses of timber to allow the windows perspex to be sandwiched in between.

I started by drawing up the panels in CAD on the computer and then printing these out which make templates which i taped to the wood and then cut the windows and scored lines for the doors. The windows have a 4mm hole drilled in each corner and I then cut between them. Here are some examples of the templates:
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I'm around half way through the build. The main bodywork is in place as is the interior with the exception of the driving end. I've done this because I have a pair of brass rods to slide in the top of coach to which I will solder the interior lights. However once the front end is built the rods won't come out again.

Next up is to fit the rods and then build the drivers end of the coach, body and then interior... I'll keep this thread updated as I progress if folks are interested. In the mean time here are some pictures of progress so far.
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Hi James - that's a great scratch build - and the windows have come out fantastic - must have taken a while - look forward to seeing more regards Dave ps have you done the same scale idea / build to gwr locos ?????
 
Keep on posting James - looks a nice job:thumbup: I know ply can be hard to cut with a knife but, how do you cut the obechi - with a knife? If so, how is it with the grain of the wood?

The seats look really good too!
 
I second Mick - keep on posting and I'm equally intrigued by the seats. Are they from a doll house supplier? They certainly look the part wherever they are from.
 
Thanks for the comments guys, much appreciated.

Dave, appart from choosing a GW livery for this project http://www.gscalecentral.net/A-bit-of-a-stinker-m159928 < Link To http://www.forum.gscalece...a-stinker-m159928 I haven't started a GW loco from scratch. I am thinking about a pannier tank around the Piko 0-6-0 chassis. I must admit though that I don't enjoy working with plasticard as much as wood, so I'm not sure when I'll get around to that. I guess a loco could be built of wood...

Mick, the obeche cuts nicely with a scalpel. The 3mm is pretty tough against the grain, was enough with the grain and the 1.5mm is no problem either way. I get it from 4d Modelshop in Tower Hill in London - which is a real treasure trove for scratchbuilding materials...

Gordon, the seats are scratch built too. A very simple frame from the 1.5mm obeche using a template for the ends like this...
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Then i cover small blocks of balsa with fabric for the seat cushions. I found the fabric in a market a bought a metre for a couple of quid. It has a very garish pattern sewn into some of it, but the base fabric is a kind of tiny corduroy which looks pretty smart! I cannot envisage ever running out of the fabric, it's already done me a couple of coaches and I've barely made a dent in it!
 
Thanks for the extra info, James. The seats really do look just right and the corduroy must surely be about 1:24 itself.
 
already a beautifull model looking forward to seeing it progress:thumbup:
 
Very impressive, James. Looks intriguing. Looking forward to further installments.
 
Thanks for the info James - I'll give Obechi consideration next time I reorder some supplies:thumbup:
 
Wow James that looks crisp and professional....
 
Superb work! I am looking forward to seeing the finished coach:thumbup::thumbup:
 
Those windows look very neat - I keep putting off my Faur Lyd2 diesel and 2-axle Austrian brake van coach scratchbuilds because of the windows - but you've given me a little oomph for these projects :)
 
Yup, the windows had me a bit worried too. The method was using the printed templates mentioned above to provide quick and accurate marks. I also have a dremel drill on a dremel pillar which made the corners much easier to drill accurately. I didn't know how I was going to mount the window glass, but having cut the two outer side panels I put them back to back and saw that everything line up perfectly, so made additional interior panels and sandwiched the perspex in between.
I've found the printed template method is working really well for me. It's a bit like very low tech laser cutting - except that I have to do the cutting still!
 
A bit more progress over the last few days. I've finished the driving cab end exterior.

The cut panels come out looking like this...
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And then get fixed on to the body.
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Initially it's pretty fragile, but by the time there are three layers (sandwiching the window perspex) it's pretty solid.

I've now moved on to the roof. I forgot to take pictures during the process, but basically I start by making a frame for the roof. In this case five separate frames - one per compartment, to give me something to fix the roof too. The frames are made in situ in the body to ensure a good fit - again the frames themselves are quite fragile, but once the roof is added everything will hopefully become much stronger. The roof is intended to be removable - ideally by just lifting out, so I then wrap the coach walls in a single layer of cling film and put the frames back in. This allows me to glue individual planks to the frames without any danger of fixing them to the coach itself!
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The planks are gently weighted down as they are glued to try to keep the roof shape following the coach.

The result so far is a roof that fits snuggly but at the same time lifts out easily. I'm now applying a liberal coat of green putty to fill in the cracks before sanding down - hopefully to a nice curvy finish - we'll see! The sides look pretty good, but the front and rear ends will need some sort of short 'skirt' to hide the plank ends and cover the slight gap to the body...
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Excellent work. I've never modelled in obechi - must give it a try though I doubt my skills are up to yours.

Rik
 
Hi James,
I love this creation of yours but I still have a problem understanding the windows setup.
The outside wall and the inside wall are cut to the same template ? yes.
Is there another wall cut the same thickness as the window perspex but with slightly larger frame cutouts to accept the perspex that is then sandwiched between the inner and outer walls ?
Or is maybe the Perspex sheet glued between the inner and outer walls ?
I hope you can understand me.

take care
Don W
 
Hi Don

You're right, the inside and outside walls are indeed cut to the same template. Sandwiched between them is another layer of the same thickness (1.5mm) of wood, but with lager cutouts into which the windows Perspex is fitted. I guess the middle layer could just be a whole layer of Perspex, but I find fixing wood to wood with pva glue stronger than trying to fix Perspex to wood. Key to making the sandwiching layers work is clamping each layer fully flat to the outer layer when glueing - the new layers do tend to warp and end up not flat otherwise. I hope that explains it.
 
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