Aristo Crest Battery Sound Fit To Lgb 20761.1

dunnyrail

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I have had one of these beasties for quite a while. It was used as a Test Bed for a Loco that I fitted Crest in for a friend, prooving that the Battery Car set up would work. But as with all 0-4-0's (well most) they do not run satisfactorily reliable for Timetable Running. So as I have been enhancing my Battery Fleet, this baby was next in line to get the treatment. In truth I have always wondered about the viability of this conversion:-
Would I get enough Batteries in?
Would the Sound System fit
Could I stuff all the wires in place neatly?
Well this far I think that it will work.

First job was Batteries. I originally played with the concept of Tagged Batteries, but as I had in stock a 8 Pack Battery Holder and 7 2500 with one 2000 (all NiMh). I thought that I can use this little lot to get going with no delays, well it was Raining all day yesterday in St.Nits. That pack was loaded and coupled to a Charging Socket then tried out with the Smart Charger whilst I fitted up the Switches and Things. The little beast did turn its wheels on the badly undercharged lash up so I felt in order to move forwards.
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Happily the Battery Pack just nicely fitted into the Cab Backplate leaving room in front for the Aristo Electronics. This pic with the Weight removed.

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I fitted the on/off Switch to the Front Right facing the Chimney. This is the side that will normally be on view when the Loco is Running. Thus making it easily accesible. When Off the Charging Circuit is in place, isolating the Aristo Kit. The 3 wires from the Switch come up into the Cab within Black Heat Shrink to disguise them somewhat. The second pic shows this emerging from the gloomy underneath in front of Driver Herr Fluck's oops Flick's Feet.

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The charging Socket is the opposite side in pretty much the same location. Just two wires here, the Red goes direct to the Switch. Black to the Battery.

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Again I used the Heat Shrink disguise. The socket outside will get a touch of Matt Red round the Nut and Washer later on in the build.

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Finally the Aristo Link Push Button has been put on the same side as the Battery Socket, but further forwards. In this lication it is near invisible. But is accesible for the odd occasion when linking is required.

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Once the Batteries successfully charged up I felt happy to do a Lash Up to see that everything worked. In truth the Steam Sound Board has been problamatical, though the Motor Works OK sound is just the odd click when turned on and F1 Pressed. I may need to delve into the Manual (cheating I know) to see if this can be resolved. If not, I will fit a Working Diesel Sound Card for the time being and have another Steam Sound one en route at some stage. Very messy lash up but it does run the Motor OK. Not very clear here is the 1inch that I lopped of the front of the Weight. It is now held in place with just one screw. The Plastic Pip that the Screw went to has also be lopped off to aid Sound Card Fitting. Also I have put some Jaffa Tape in place to isolate the Weight, just in case. You can also see where surplus plastic has been hacked to get the Push Button in place below.

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I have starte to tidy up the wires a bit here, plus you can better see the Wires in Heat Shrink comming up from the Switches et all below and dissapearing through the hole where the original LGB Switch fitted.

Herr Flick still does not look amused, what will happen to his Fireman. Does redundancy approach with all this new fangled Electrics? Certainly Flick will be able to return home with his clothes less soiled as shown here! Frau Flick will I am sure be impressed.

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Finally at this stage I removed the Chassis Base plate and took out all the Pick Up Sliders and the Wheel Back Pickups. Takes away drag to save Battery Power. This little lot went into the LGB Spare Parts Box.
JonD
 
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Very interesting. (insert accent here)..

I see you have said this only once!
 
Excellent job getting all that to fit, JonD! If you wanted to save some battery space (eg: in a loco that doesn't quite have enough room for an 8-cell AA box), how about one of these (square or flat style):
http://cpc.farnell.com/ansmann/2447-3036/14-8v-2-6ah-block-lithium-ion/dp/BT06048
http://cpc.farnell.com/ansmann/2447-3032/14-8v-2-6ah-in-line-lithium-ion/dp/BT06047
They're not cheap, but they hold an awful lot of power (2.6Ah at 14.8V) in a very small package, and they make good running times possible even for small locos..... they've all got built-in protection boards so they can be safely charged in the loco.

Jon.
 
Excellent job getting all that to fit, JonD! If you wanted to save some battery space (eg: in a loco that doesn't quite have enough room for an 8-cell AA box), how about one of these (square or flat style):
http://cpc.farnell.com/ansmann/2447-3036/14-8v-2-6ah-block-lithium-ion/dp/BT06048
http://cpc.farnell.com/ansmann/2447-3032/14-8v-2-6ah-in-line-lithium-ion/dp/BT06047
They're not cheap, but they hold an awful lot of power (2.6Ah at 14.8V) in a very small package, and they make good running times possible even for small locos..... they've all got built-in protection boards so they can be safely charged in the loco.

Jon.
Thanks for that info Jon. Trouble is I do yet yet trust Lion Batteries in my Conversions. I may be spiting my face etc etc but well have had good results with NiMh so need to stick to them.

However I am having problems stuffing the Aristo Sound Chip in. If only it went together the other way round the Chip would fit nicely. You can just make out that I have the card fitted wrongly to the Interface Biard on the messy Wire Pic. Noticed this when I re read the Instructions. I guess that I could solder the connections but that would not allow easy swop outs. So I may still need to go down the Soldered Battery Route, having 6 in a Pack where shown and perhaps stuffing 2 more to the side of them. Then the Sound Card could fit on Top. Still at the moment playing with alternative ways of stufing the card in.
JonD
 
Nice job Jon - looks like it will fit in nicely.

I put battery power in this Stainz (I just don't do trailing battery wagons, if the loco can't travel light it has no place on my railway).
No sound in it though, but it does have smoke.

I used a six pack battery set, 9 volts is just right, gives a very realistic top speed.

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Nice job Jon - looks like it will fit in nicely.

I put battery power in this Stainz (I just don't do trailing battery wagons, if the loco can't travel light it has no place on my railway).
No sound in it though, but it does have smoke.

I used a six pack battery set, 9 volts is just right, gives a very realistic top speed.

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Thanks for the info. Might give that a try, certainly High Speed, Lights and Smoke do not bother me with what in effect will be a Station Pilot.
JonD
 
Thanks for that info Jon. Trouble is I do yet yet trust Lion Batteries in my Conversions. I may be spiting my face etc etc but well have had good results with NiMh so need to stick to them........
JonD

I quite understand, Jon - I've been fairly paranoid about them after the various horror stories, but I charged one of the Ansmann packs up recently and it didn't even get warm to the touch - these are very high quality battery packs designed for industrial use, with full protection circuitry built-in, hence their rather high price.... they are most definitely not like the stripped-down cheap Chinese units intended for the R/C flyers or cars. With the right charger (and trickle-charging rather than ramming amps in as fast as possible), I am now confident that these are just as safe as the battery in my iphone, and I'm happy enough to install them in a loco and charge them in-situ - which I would NEVER do with one of the above-mentioned Chinese Li-polys!

However, I've taken a value judgement on this for myself based on all the info I could gather - and if you're happier sticking with the technology you know then I can't fault you for that! ;)

Jon.
 
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I have been niggling away at my Fitting it all in problem, woke early this morning and the thoughts would not let me drift back to the land of nod. So as I made my Tea and Porridge I wondered, why not take out ALL of the weight. So as kettle was boiling I did just that (kitchen is next to Workshop) and that looks like the solution. Will play today and hopefully some pics and reports of success later on with no revisions to Batteries. I do not think that the loss of Weight will be a problem as the Batteries should provide pretty much what the Weight did.
JonD
 
So, weigh the batteries, weigh the weight..
If really light with batteries, you can always add weight were you can for added traction, once you see what space is left.
 
A "Eureka Moment", JonD! ;) It would be interesting to know what your 8-cell AA pack weighs compared with the block of alloy that you take out, but I bet they won't be THAT much different.... I'm sure that the little Borsig will be fine with it, after all if it's a Station Pilot it will only be moving a few wagons or coaches around at any time so will seldom need maximum traction - and if you DO find any problems in use, you can always put some strips of lead tyre weights on the inside walls of the side tanks or any other suitable spot.....

In one of the battery installs that I have planned (in a 2095, should I ever find time to actually do it...in reality, 2095 is most likely the year I will be able to get around to it... :rofl: ) the idea will be to use the battery pack to replace at least one of the two internal weights.

Jon.
 
Thanks for your thoughts Phil and Jon. Well it does all fit with the Weight removed. Not put it on the scales, but sure it will have enough grunt for it's Pilot and Secondary duties.

1st Pic shows parts not used, now all in the Soares Box. Also the Wiring Diagram before coupling up to the Aristo Unit. At this stage of the Lash Up will run and Batteries Charge.
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2 Pics showing how it all fits, note Batteries now Lower and Jaffa Tape used to ensure no Stray touching Battery Metal. Sponge used for Pips on Interface Cable stops these from damaging the Jaffa Tape. Location of Fuse and revised Linking Button now just behind Cylinder. Pip for Weight at Rear also removed.
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Speaker Wrapped in Jaffa Tape to make a Sound Box.
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Revised location of Linking Switch from below.
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On the Workbench all stuffed in. Not a cheat, note the Charge Socket.
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You tube Vid of Test Runs this Morning.


One point obvious from the Vid is the visibility of the On/Off Switch. May need to think about a resite of that when my Roundtoit returns. More importantly now will be detailing the Beast.

Jon re your 2095, easy project. The 10 Pack set that I put in mine fited nicely where the Batt Box is on the Real Thing with Charging Socket suitably in place on that Box. Simples! Good luck with it.
JonD
 
Try a chuffer switch on one of the wheels and use two magnets it seems to get the chuff beats in better time, I wish Crest would make the horn so it is not latched so it would only sound while you are holding the button so we could then make short blasts. I have asked Navin about this. I am currently trying a HO crest unit in my small engine gives heaps more room for batteries and it handles a 2amp constant draw easily. Down side is I had to by a HO handset as well
 
Try a chuffer switch on one of the wheels and use two magnets it seems to get the chuff beats in better time, I wish Crest would make the horn so it is not latched so it would only sound while you are holding the button so we could then make short blasts. I have asked Navin about this. I am currently trying a HO crest unit in my small engine gives heaps more room for batteries and it handles a 2amp constant draw easily. Down side is I had to by a HO handset as well
I have given it a good couple of runs now and am happy thet it is doing 4 beats per revolution of the Wheels. Just that this sometimes appears to not sound right with Models. The Latch on the Whistle is changeable on the Menu. Forget what the other option is.

Had another run with her today. pulled 2 Bogie Coaches and an LGB Shorty Van (all with Metal Wheels) up my 1:40 on 4ft Rad Curve. Very happy with that performance, in fact much better than I dared hope. DVD record of that. Sorry about the foul ups, tricky trying to Vid with Mobile Phone, change points and Drive as well!


JonD
 
What I meant about whistle is it seems to go thru a couple of long blast sequence and you can't seem to do a short blast when you just touch button. I haven't been able to change that.
 
What I meant about whistle is it seems to go thru a couple of long blast sequence and you can't seem to do a short blast when you just touch button. I haven't been able to change that.

If you haven't changed the defaults..??..

Have you tried buttons '2' and '3', by any chance? - supposing this is the same as the models I have installed?
 
So the little beast has been my go round the Garden whlist I was planting out the new Rockery. Every time she came out of the Shed I put a pebble on the Wall. Speed was around 14 Scale KPH with 1 Bogie Coach and an LGB Small Wagon both with Metal Wheeks. 18 pebbles and 4.5 Hours later she was still going round. That after about 30 minutes play yesterday sorting out capacity and testing the new Yard in the Garden with no Battery Charge. I thought that the Batteries were shot and needed replacement, how wrong can you be?
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Above the set as running Today.
JonD
 
Finally managed to get the beast to stop running yesterday, after another 30 Minutes and 1.5 circuits of the Garden she stopped. But the Sound Unit was still pumping away. So that will be 5 and a little bit Hours of reliable steady running. Total run was 5.5 Hours, and around 20 circuits of my long Continuous Loop. Batteries took around 2 Hours to recharge with my Baby Smart Charger.

Quite astonishing judging at what I felt the condition of the Batteries to be.
JonD
 
Have to say the Aristo Sound is somewhat limited, plus being YS not fully appropriate for this Loco.,just wish they would do downloadable upgrades to some European Sounds. Doubt if I could stuff a different Sound Board in as well then just ignore the US Sound System. Though I have done this with my Swiss Box Motor.
JonD
 
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