Any tips on lining?

ge_rik

ge_rik

British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
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I've spent a fair bit of time building a Peckett type of loco from a GRS kit on an LGB 'Rusty' chassis (don't look too closely). I used Humbrol Brunswick Green acrylic spray from a rattle can (with very mixed success) but feel some sort of lining would make a world of difference. I know it won't hide the imperfections in my modelling but it might draw attention away from them.

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IMG_3190.JPG

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[align=left]I've been looking at the transfers on the Locolines website, but I'm not sure how I'd go about getting the curves (eg round the cab doorway). I don't think my skills are up to lining by hand with a bowpen or similar. Anyone out there got any advice for a ham-fisted amateur?
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Rik
 
Hi Rik,

There used to be a 'stick back plastic' sheet in 18" widths and various colours called contac. It is still made thoygh I do not know its present name.

That can be cut with a new blade into strips lass tham 1mm wide, and being plastic will with some persuasion go round corners. Spray a scrarp pive of plasticard and try it out on that, when stastisfied you can move on to the loco, IF it is put on carefully, and wityh light pressure only, it will still lift fior rectifiaction if needed, then burnish it down carefully. Again practice makes perfect, try usoing your finger nail as a burnishers with again light and then heavier pressure to lock it down.

Then for protection varnish the lining.

e44b1fc6955341b68c002c9fabdfadc5.jpg


The above photo is a repaint of the Bachmann 4 4 0 - the red is the plastic lining strips. I have also, added to a LGB Porter 0 4 0ST, some gold strips made from painted strong enevelope paper as the above method, - cut them off a sheet, paint them, give the back a thin sliver of Evostick, and follow as above. Since takin that photo it has also has red strips added to it.

Here is the Porter

766016519a9248f09d5d987d020961f9.jpg



Look forward to a photo of your handiwork in due course!

Yours Peter
 
Trimline is what I use. It's often sold in model aircraft and car shops which is where I buy mine but if you can't find it, this place http://balsamart.co.uk/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=109_297 has it in all the colours.

I mainly use the thinnest one but it is quite possible to cut the thicker ones too, in the same way Peter describes above.

Trimline will go round some fairly sharp radii with no trouble.

All my recent lining was done with Trimline - the Lawley:

IMG_8379%20copy%20%28Small%29.jpg


and Caradoc

IMG_6193%20%28Small%29.jpg


and the Yankee:
The_Yankee%20800.JPG


But the Hunslet is lined with an Edding pen. Took much longer (an age, infact), but is a better job I would say.
IMG_4614%20%28Small%29.JPG
 
Trimline tape is the way to go if it is available in the correct colour.

ed52e395c4dc49b2a85d402af1e9077f.jpg
 
ge_rik said:
I've spent a fair bit of time building a Peckett type of loco from a GRS kit on an LGB 'Rusty' chassis (don't look too closely). I used Humbrol Brunswick Green acrylic spray from a rattle can (with very mixed success) but feel some sort of lining would make a world of difference. I know it won't hide the imperfections in my modelling but it might draw attention away from them.

[align=center]
IMG_3190.JPG

[/align]
[align=left]I've been looking at the transfers on the Locolines website, but I'm not sure how I'd go about getting the curves (eg round the cab doorway). I don't think my skills are up to lining by hand with a bowpen or similar. Anyone out there got any advice for a ham-fisted amateur?
[/align] Rik
Click to expand...

Rik

Can't help you with the lining, but there are enough answers for you to be geting on with already.

But, a couple of tips to lift that superb looking saddle tank.

When your' finishsed with the lining, a spray of matt or semi-matt varish will do wonders for it.

It might be worth picking out things like the springs in black, with a small brush.
See if you can get the roof to sit closer, or whether you can fill the gap - things like the cab roof can stand out, while other blemishes don't shout.

As an example, that blue and yellow diesel of mine that's been pictured in the coffee lounge over a good few days :yawn::yawn:has the most apalling paint job - but because the body shape is crisp and clean, it seems to get away with it :cool:
 
Rhinochugger said:
ge_rik said:
I've spent a fair bit of time building a Peckett type of loco from a GRS kit on an LGB 'Rusty' chassis (don't look too closely). I used Humbrol Brunswick Green acrylic spray from a rattle can (with very mixed success) but feel some sort of lining would make a world of difference. I know it won't hide the imperfections in my modelling but it might draw attention away from them.

[align=center]
IMG_3190.JPG

[/align]
[align=left]I've been looking at the transfers on the Locolines website, but I'm not sure how I'd go about getting the curves (eg round the cab doorway). I don't think my skills are up to lining by hand with a bowpen or similar. Anyone out there got any advice for a ham-fisted amateur?
[/align] Rik
Click to expand...

Rik

Can't help you with the lining, but there are enough answers for you to be geting on with already.

But, a couple of tips to lift that superb looking saddle tank.

When your' finishsed with the lining, a spray of matt or semi-matt varish will do wonders for it.

It might be worth picking out things like the springs in black, with a small brush.
See if you can get the roof to sit closer, or whether you can fill the gap - things like the cab roof can stand out, while other blemishes don't shout.

As an example, that blue and yellow diesel of mine that's been pictured in the coffee lounge over a good few days :yawn::yawn:has the most apalling paint job - but because the body shape is crisp and clean, it seems to get away with it :cool:
Click to expand...
Yes, I agree with Ian. Matt or semi-gloss is a big help.

I am sure you are aware if you can produce a superb finish like you have already but if you can try and use several different types of black it helps too, both different gloss levels and even different shades. This is before any discussion of weathering, which is a separate art.

Edit: By the way, drifting the thread a bit, have you run the loco in the garden yet? GRS kits are a bit err bold with their buffer beam depth and you may have a ready-built snow plough. If you look at my Hunslet (above and in my avatar), my buffer beam is higher than the standard bu I know Mel (yb281) had fun with this on his Hunslet.
 
Great advice chaps thanks. I hadn't realised lining tape was quite that flexible - I must say it does look impressive. I'll certainly give it a try.

Graham - did you paint the black edge before applying the lining tape? That presumably would mask any wobbles between the black and the main body colour. Yes, have run it in the garden which is where the cab steps fouled the viaduct! Seemed to clear everything OK, but must admit the beam on your Hunslet looks a lot more elegant. May try some judicious paring-down.

Regarding the cab roof - originally this was glued down tightly but I decided to make it removable to gain access to the interior (initially to apply masking tape while spraying). I could glue it back in place but suspect I will want to remove it again in the future. I've attached a couple of battens to align it but I maybe need to find something which is a tighter, snugger fit - particularly as the curve of the roof doesn't quite match the curve of the cab front and rear.

That road-roller gadget does look interesting. I imagine it will take a steady hand though - much like a lining pen.

Rik

PS. Oh yes, am intending to give it a couple of coats of satin varnish when done - but want to sort out the lining and maybe a little bit of light weathering first. I want to tone down the motion and the brake gear which particularly looks a bit stark at present.
 
Rik, yes applying the black before is one way but it is also posssible to apply it afterwards. The biggest negative for Trimline is that it stands slightly proud. This can be used as an advantage too because it gives you an edge to work to. Just a matter of practice and trying out what works for you.

Very interested to see the progress.
 
There used to be transfers for 4mm scale of lining strips and a selection of bends and corners. I can't remember if they were waterslide of Methfix - I think PC made them. Worth a Google perhaps as they may still be available.

Giles
 
ge_rik said:
Regarding the cab roof - originally this was glued down tightly but I decided to make it removable to gain access to the interior (initially to apply masking tape while spraying). I could glue it back in place but suspect I will want to remove it again in the future. I've attached a couple of battens to align it but I maybe need to find something which is a tighter, snugger fit - particularly as the curve of the roof doesn't quite match the curve of the cab front and rear.
Click to expand...

I understand Rik, I've used UHU to fix my roof - then if I really need to, I can remove it with the aid of a sharp knife :bigsmile:

a sort of semi-permanent answer :thumbup:
 
You should be able to get TrimLine self adhesive coach lining from any good model shop.

I bought mine locally and this is a 'one horse town'. As well as the colours shewn in the previous post I would add that it is available in almost 20 colours it seems. I repainted three Bachmann J&S cars last year and found the TrimLine very easy to apply: it also looks good as there are nor ragged or uneven edges. Within each pot there are eight widths of 2.5. length. Maybe more widths than needed but there may arise a subsequent need for some of the unused widths. ;)
 
I used the 2nd narrowest width. It took about 2m to do Caradoc - you have to cut it overlength to do each piece.
 
I must admit that the Trimline tape does seem to look effective and seems quite easy to apply. I had intended to go for radiused corners but actually the squared off ones look fine - presumably takes a bit of careful trimming to make sure they are spot-on or can you overlap the vertical with the horizontal.

Rik
 
Rhinochugger said:
I understand Rik, I've used UHU to fix my roof - then if I really need to, I can remove it with the aid of a sharp knife :bigsmile:
a sort of semi-permanent answer :thumbup:
Click to expand...

I like that! Simple but effective!

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
I must admit that the Trimline tape does seem to look effective and seems quite easy to apply. I had intended to go for radiused corners but actually the squared off ones look fine - presumably takes a bit of careful trimming to make sure they are spot-on or can you overlap the vertical with the horizontal.

Rik
Click to expand...

They are overlapped, then carefully trimmed with a very sharp knife, just press hard enough to cut the trimline tape, but not hard enough to damage the paint.
 
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