Any advice on vinyl lettering?

ge_rik

ge_rik

British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
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You might have seen in another thread that I am now the proud owner of a cutting machine. My first project is to cut out self adhesive vinyl lettering in various sizes for my goods stock. I know some of you have experience with this stuff. Can you offer any advice? My greatest concern is making sure it says stuck-on. How do you stick it to a planked surface?

This is my first effort. I know the letters aren't level - it's just a trial run to check the cutter does a decent job. I'm awaiting delivery of some white matt vinyl so the the letters can be weathered more easily.
IMG_3126.JPG

Many thanks in advance

Rik
 
I think choice of vinyl (UV resistance) and a spray of matt varnish, will make a big difference?

PhilP
 
I would look at automotive graphics vinyls, normally very thin, and they stay stuck, even to uneven surfaces as long as they are clean :)
Well the good ones do ;)
 
JimmyB said:
I would look at automotive graphics vinyls, normally very thin, and they stay stuck, even to uneven surfaces as long as they are clean :)
Well the good ones do ;)
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That's useful info, Jim, thanks. I'll search out some sources.

Rik
 
This is what I've used in the past on my inkjet printer:

photopaperdirect.com

PPD Inkjet Vinyl Self-Adhesive Matt 4.1mil A4 PPD-38

Print custom stickers on your home or office inkjet printer, using dye based or pigmented inks. The semi-permanent adhesive (low-tack) adheres to most non-porous surfaces like metal, glass, plastic, and much more. During application, the low-tack sticker can be repositioned. When left in place...
photopaperdirect.com photopaperdirect.com

photopaperdirect.com

PPD Inkjet Self Adhesive Sticker Matt A3 4.7mil PPD-381

Print custom stickers on your home or office inkjet printer, using dye based or pigmented inks. The semi-permanent adhesive (low-tack) adheres to most non-porous surfaces like metal, glass, plastic, and much more. During application, the low-tack sticker can be repositioned. When left in place...
photopaperdirect.com photopaperdirect.com

Don't know how the price compares to alternatives. There are some examples of the finished items on my Orient Express thread. There is no residue left on removal. but it does stay fixed with no 'lifting'. I've also used it on the car, furniture and motorcycle with good results. A matt spray is available to give it a more durable finish but even without I have been pleased with the outcome as it 'weathers' itself.
 
ge_rik said:
You might have seen in another thread that I am now the proud owner of a cutting machine. My first project is to cut out self adhesive vinyl lettering in various sizes for my goods stock. I know some of you have experience with this stuff. Can you offer any advice? My greatest concern is making sure it says stuck-on. How do you stick it to a planked surface?

This is my first effort. I know the letters aren't level - it's just a trial run to check the cutter does a decent job. I'm awaiting delivery of some white matt vinyl so the the letters can be weathered more easily.
View attachment 309064

Many thanks in advance

Rik
Click to expand...
I used to work for a Builders Yard that did vinyl lettering on tea and sweat shirts. The design was cut out then heat pressed to the shirts in a sort of trouser press. Not a lot of good for us but I wonder if a quick blast with a Hair Dryer might do the job, experiment in some waste first! As for getting the lettering into planks, perhaps pressing in with a scriber will work.
 
If you spot a signs/graphics shop, in your travels..
You could always stick your head through the door, and ask if you can have some offcuts, cheaply?

I find offering to pay, gets at least your request listened too..
Even a couple of quid for tea kitty, is often enough.

PhilP
 
As regards planking, I've found that when applying printed labels to wagons running the edge of a thumb nail up the grooves depressed the label in enough to show the planking through without tearing the label.
 
If you want the vinyl in the grooves between the planks, then you need to use the right type of vinyl, otherwise it will just keep lifting from the grooves. Cast vinyl is the best type to use, so check the specification of what you're buying. The majority of the cheaper vinyls are calendered types, most will last well for your use, but they don't conform so well to contours and are likely to lift from the grooves even if they initially appear to stick down well.

G.
 
ge_rik said:
Can you offer any advice? My greatest concern is making sure it says stuck-on. How do you stick it to a planked surface?
Click to expand...
dunnyrail said:
The design was cut out then heat pressed to the shirts in a sort of trouser press. Not a lot of good for us but I wonder if a quick blast with a Hair Dryer might do the job,
Click to expand...

I got someone to cut me some freight wagon lettering in vinyl "as a favour", so I don't kno w what kind of vinyl was used, but I had no difficulty applying it to planked wagon sides of models in both plastic and cardboard, using a thin blunt tool to press it into the grooves straight away. Not overcoated with anything. Still there ten or more years later. While mine were gloss vinyl, the gentle use of wire wool took the shine off.

In commercial operations, the vinyl is often applied to a surface previously sprayed with water. This allows the vinyl to be slid around until correctly aligned, and then the residual water "squeegied out" (from the centre outwards, of course). I'm sure this would be "overkill" for our sort of applications.

To the best of my knowledge, the "vinyl" used for garments is a different thing altogether, relying on heat to bind it to the (porous) fabric. I'm pretty sure that the removal of vinyl lettering from vehicles is made easier by the application of hot air . . . so the hairdryer idea might be counter-productive in our use of vinyl.

I'm currently looking for a company which can supply me with vinyl lettering (block capitals) as small as 5mm height. I found one online (before the pandemic) who gave me a good price . . . but they stopped responding to my emails (perhaps they realised how fiddly it would be for such a modest return).

All the best

David
 
SevenOfDiamonds said:
In commercial operations, the vinyl is often applied to a surface previously sprayed with water. This allows the vinyl to be slid around until correctly aligned, and then the residual water "squeegied out" (from the centre outwards, of course). I'm sure this would be "overkill" for our sort of applications.

David
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I put some of the one-way shading on my shed last year, this is a type of vinyl, and you spray a mild soap solution to position and as you say squeegee flat, works very well, and is similar to that used on cars and trains.
 
dunnyrail said:
That looks like a stunning plan, also good for small lettering as I think you have shown?
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Only the wheat logo is masked and painted. The white are waterslide decals I made. However, somewhat smaller lettering can be done with a mask as shown here on another project. The numbers are about 1CM tall. 0106201134.jpgP1000422.JPGProcor logo mask.jpg
 
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Yes very nice. I made my own stencil for my CP snow plow. Then used spray paint. Good enough but not professional
 

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I purchased a Cricut Joy vinyl cutting machine just before Xmas for my g scale trains. You can find " permanent " vinyl rolls that are used for automobile decals, just search for Cricut vinyl.20221015_183410.jpg
 
Mike Whitcomb said:
I purchased a Cricut Joy vinyl cutting machine just before Xmas for my g scale trains. You can find " permanent " vinyl rolls that are used for automobile decals, just search for Cricut vinyl.View attachment 309259
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Thanks folks. Very helpful info.
I've got both white vinyl and masking vinyl on order so will have a play with both to see which does the job best.
All good fun! :D

Rik
 
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