Re-gauge a 3 cylinder Accucraft Shay from 32mm to 45mm

J

Jason427v8

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I recently purchased an Accucraft 3-cylinder Shay, which is currently set to 32mm gauge (see photo). I haven’t been able to find any information about a 32mm version, does anyone know whether the wheels are pressed onto the axles or secured with Loctite?


Also, does it look like this might have been modified from a 45mm version by pressing the wheels further onto the axles and then making brass spacers?


Thanks in advance for any advice offered.
 

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Jason427v8 said:
I recently purchased an Accucraft 3-cylinder Shay, which is currently set to 32mm gauge (see photo). I haven’t been able to find any information about a 32mm version, does anyone know whether the wheels are pressed onto the axles or secured with Loctite?


Also, does it look like this might have been modified from a 45mm version by pressing the wheels further onto the axles and then making brass spacers?


Thanks in advance for any advice offered.
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Yep, having had a 45mm 3-cylinder Shay, I would say that has definitely been crudely re-gauged to 32mm. That's an over-simplistic bodge to run the loco offset to the track.

I'm not sure how the wheels are fixed to the axle - even if they are force fitted, the axle is likely to have a shoulder to keep the wheels in gauge.

From the picture, I'm assuming that perhaps the shoulder on the axle has been turned down - the only way to find out is to take it apart. Go gently with the bogies, but everything unscrews. :)
 
I'll go take look at my 3 cylinder Accucraft Mich Cal #5 Shay and take a picture to show these were made. Yes, what you have is a conversion from a 45 mm only gauge product. The recently released (well 18 months) 13 ton 3 cylinder is the first Acucraft Shay to be made regaugable between 45 & 33 mm. Normally, on their UK & Colonial outline rodded locos. this is done with set screws, in bosses behind the wheels' flange, locating into recesses in the axles to set the gauge. Back after visit to garden center. Max
 
Hope this helps Jason. There appears to be a different wheel boss design fore and aft on the bogie, as well as a difference in drivegear profile to yours. Note the angle of trucks in last picture do not infer that they could cope with that radius of curve. The U/J's might complain and bind up. That and your drive shaft stubbs might pull out. I have put them in full size to help compare with your posted image. If you need more detail just DM me. Max

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It looks like you need to get rid of those large brass spacers on your 32 mm gauged version. Then, how is that wheel and drive gear assembled and kept in place ? Are they "sweated" on to the axle and has axle been turned down to slide the wheel back to a narrower gauge ? The brass spacer was then inserted between wheel a drive gear to maintain the assembly's integrity and guage, once refitted to the bogies. If so you need to sweat the wheel (& drive gear ?) off, insert a spacer on inside, over the axle to restore the gauge and then sweat drive gear side wheel back on. I can measure the back to backs on my Shay. Perhaps a word with Accucraft US might be an idea.
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There are plenty of 45mm shays about but few 32mm gauge. Unless you are particularly attached to this loco you may be better off selling it and buying an unconverted 45mm version. Just my opinion, of course.
 
maxi-model said:
Hope this helps Jason. There appears to be a different wheel boss design fore and aft on the bogie, as well as a difference in drivegear profile to yours. Note the angle of trucks in last picture do not infer that they could cope with that radius of curve. The U/J's might complain and bind up. That and your drive shaft stubbs might pull out. I have put them in full size to help compare with your posted image. If you need more detail just DM me. Max

View attachment 355815
It looks like you need to get rid of those large brass spacers on your 32 mm gauged version. Then, how is that wheel and drive gear assembled and kept in place ? Are they "sweated" on to the axle and has axle been turned down to slide the wheel back to a narrower gauge ? The brass spacer was then inserted between wheel a drive gear to maintain the assembly's integrity and guage, once refitted to the bogies. If so you need to sweat the wheel (& drive gear ?) off, insert a spacer on inside, over the axle to restore the gauge and then sweat drive gear side wheel back on. I can measure the back to backs on my Shay. Perhaps a word with Accucraft US might be an idea.
View attachment 355814

View attachment 355813
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Yep, you have to take it gently on well-laid 8ft curves - it won't do much less and is not keen on LGB R3
 
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