Re-gauge a 3 cylinder Accucraft Shay from 32mm to 45mm

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Jason427v8

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I recently purchased an Accucraft 3-cylinder Shay, which is currently set to 32mm gauge (see photo). I haven’t been able to find any information about a 32mm version, does anyone know whether the wheels are pressed onto the axles or secured with Loctite?


Also, does it look like this might have been modified from a 45mm version by pressing the wheels further onto the axles and then making brass spacers?


Thanks in advance for any advice offered.
 

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Jason427v8 said:
I recently purchased an Accucraft 3-cylinder Shay, which is currently set to 32mm gauge (see photo). I haven’t been able to find any information about a 32mm version, does anyone know whether the wheels are pressed onto the axles or secured with Loctite?


Also, does it look like this might have been modified from a 45mm version by pressing the wheels further onto the axles and then making brass spacers?


Thanks in advance for any advice offered.
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Yep, having had a 45mm 3-cylinder Shay, I would say that has definitely been crudely re-gauged to 32mm. That's an over-simplistic bodge to run the loco offset to the track.

I'm not sure how the wheels are fixed to the axle - even if they are force fitted, the axle is likely to have a shoulder to keep the wheels in gauge.

From the picture, I'm assuming that perhaps the shoulder on the axle has been turned down - the only way to find out is to take it apart. Go gently with the bogies, but everything unscrews. :)
 
I'll go take look at my 3 cylinder Accucraft Mich Cal #5 Shay and take a picture to show these were made. Yes, what you have is a conversion from a 45 mm only gauge product. The recently released (well 18 months) 13 ton 3 cylinder is the first Acucraft Shay to be made regaugable between 45 & 33 mm. Normally, on their UK & Colonial outline rodded locos. this is done with set screws, in bosses behind the wheels' flange, locating into recesses in the axles to set the gauge. Back after visit to garden center. Max
 
Hope this helps Jason. There appears to be a different wheel boss design fore and aft on the bogie, as well as a difference in drivegear profile to yours. Note the angle of trucks in last picture do not infer that they could cope with that radius of curve. The U/J's might complain and bind up. That and your drive shaft stubbs might pull out. I have put them in full size to help compare with your posted image. If you need more detail just DM me. Max

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It looks like you need to get rid of those large brass spacers on your 32 mm gauged version. Then, how is that wheel and drive gear assembled and kept in place ? Are they "sweated" on to the axle and has axle been turned down to slide the wheel back to a narrower gauge ? The brass spacer was then inserted between wheel a drive gear to maintain the assembly's integrity and guage, once refitted to the bogies. If so you need to sweat the wheel (& drive gear ?) off, insert a spacer on inside, over the axle to restore the gauge and then sweat drive gear side wheel back on. I can measure the back to backs on my Shay. Perhaps a word with Accucraft US might be an idea.
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There are plenty of 45mm shays about but few 32mm gauge. Unless you are particularly attached to this loco you may be better off selling it and buying an unconverted 45mm version. Just my opinion, of course.
 
maxi-model said:
Hope this helps Jason. There appears to be a different wheel boss design fore and aft on the bogie, as well as a difference in drivegear profile to yours. Note the angle of trucks in last picture do not infer that they could cope with that radius of curve. The U/J's might complain and bind up. That and your drive shaft stubbs might pull out. I have put them in full size to help compare with your posted image. If you need more detail just DM me. Max

View attachment 355815
It looks like you need to get rid of those large brass spacers on your 32 mm gauged version. Then, how is that wheel and drive gear assembled and kept in place ? Are they "sweated" on to the axle and has axle been turned down to slide the wheel back to a narrower gauge ? The brass spacer was then inserted between wheel a drive gear to maintain the assembly's integrity and guage, once refitted to the bogies. If so you need to sweat the wheel (& drive gear ?) off, insert a spacer on inside, over the axle to restore the gauge and then sweat drive gear side wheel back on. I can measure the back to backs on my Shay. Perhaps a word with Accucraft US might be an idea.
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Yep, you have to take it gently on well-laid 8ft curves - it won't do much less and is not keen on LGB R3
 
Rhinochugger said:
Yep, you have to take it gently on well-laid 8ft curves - it won't do much less and is not keen on LGB R3
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I hate to say I have been very disapointed with my 3 cyl, I've owned it from new for some years now. It's very sluggish and couldn't pull skin off a rice pudding. Probably needs more running in, I have heard they can be a bit stiff when new. It has been rarely run in the years I have owned it as a result. Far prefer their Climax, run easily out of the box and can pull quite a load. My line has minimum radius curve s at 4ft, most a little easier at 5'. Both are manual operation, the only locos I own without any form of RC. Max.
 
Jason, the center of your wheels looks like it is quite off side from the rotating center of the bogie. However this is hard to see from your picture that has been taken from a too high standpoint. Can you make a new picture with your camera right at the central axis level of the bogie?
Same request for Maxi to redo his picture from the bogie axis level.
 
maxi-model said:
I hate to say I have been very disapointed with my 3 cyl, I've owned it from new for some years now. It's very sluggish and couldn't pull skin off a rice pudding. Probably needs more running in, I have heard they can be a bit stiff when new. It has been rarely run in the years I have owned it as a result. Far prefer their Climax, run easily out of the box and can pull quite a load. My line has minimum radius curve s at 4ft, most a little easier at 5'. Both are manual operation, the only locos I own without any form of RC. Max.
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Mine performed OK, better in reverse.

I sold it as I wasn't using it any more - with 300 ft of line here in Norfolk (I bought it when I had 80ft in Sussex) it wouldn't quite go round twice on one gas tank filling.
 
Gerard said:
Jason, the center of your wheels looks like it is quite off side from the rotating center of the bogie. However this is hard to see from your picture that has been taken from a too high standpoint. Can you make a new picture with your camera right at the central axis level of the bogie?
Same request for Maxi to redo his picture from the bogie axis level.
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Bit of a difficult shot to set up. Ruler is only a rough visual guide. Hope this is an aid to clarification, I can do not more.

The loco's running boards are 110mm width. The bogie pivots are at the center point, 55mm. The inside wheel flanges, 41m back to back, are both inset c35mm from running board edges. 110 - (2 x 35) = 40, near enough center. Therefore wheels and bogie pivot are centered within loco's body width. However, Shay locos have offset boilers to compensate for the positioning of their cylinders and valvegear. This can cause some visual confusion. Therefore, of nessesity their actual frames, not visible running boards, are offset in relation to their wheels/bogies. The bogie frames, at 80mm total width have an offset on the drive gear side only of 5mm to accommodate the drive gear. Yes it all looks a bit weird but the wheels actually align equally either side of the bogie pivot, the drive gear adds an extra 5mm on its side It's the prototypical loco's design is what can create this confusion. Still with me :D :banghead: Max

Sorry I do not have a camera with a rising front and other distortion corrections. Used to play with those in my photograpy classes at school
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