Raised garden Railways

Madman

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Before I step on someone's toes, is John Mellor a member ? I watched his video about the rebuild of his raised railway. He kind of knew that roofing felt was not going to protect the wood bed under it for too long, and it didn't. I suggested using a roofing product known as Ice and Water Shield. Over here it is mainly used in valleys and at the lower portion of the roof at the eaves. It is self sticking and heals itself around nails.

But it got me wondering why more of you guys with raised railways don't use the method shown in LGB's book, The World of LGB Trains. They show the method whereby the raised framing is simply two boards of any size, separated by the width one chooses for the right of way. Nailed between the boards is hardware cloth. It is a galvanized mesh that comes with 1/2" x 1/2" spacing between the wires or 1/4" x1/4" spacing. On top of this is laid some landscape fabric. Then the trough is filled with either soil or grit or a combination of both.

The advantages are that moisture doesn't get trapped, plants can be grown in it and the track can be laid in the ballast as one would do on a ground level railway.
 

Martino

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That’s an interesting concept Dan. Are there any photos/diagrams?
 

PhilP

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I seem to remember something similar being tried in Oz? - Might have been New Zealand..

I think the material of choice, was fly-screen material?

Not something we are familiar with in the UK (and possibly much of Europe?)


I would think anything like this, would be too free-draining, to retain enough moisture for any planting to thrive?

PhilP
 

dunnyrail

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I have seen it used over the years but not been 100 percent sure that the wood below holding it up would last that long. Where earth and plants are involved, even well drained needs for succulent type plants. Of course a lightweight construction using scrap metal would be a better bet if you can source it. Recycled plastic planks board siding such as Filcris would also work well but one has to remember the expanding issues with this product.

As for felt, my use has worked well, I use felt bonding at all joints and try to get better quality felt. If I am using screws I drill a small hole then put some bonding in to seal any egress of water that will sit under the felt to rot the wood. I did have an area where old cheep felt had rotted unseen allowing some decking to rot, only discovered when trying to screw a piece of scenery down. Just 1 place in over 12 years of wood in my current line with some wood to add 10 years to that moved from my old line.
 

GAP

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I used galvanised cable tray; maybe its me Phil was thinking of.
 

Madman

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IMG_8403.jpegIMG_8404.jpegIMG_8405.jpegThat’s an interesting concept Dan. Are there any photos/diagrams?
I thought there were more and better photos in this book. There are only two, but I think they show the concept. The screen shown looks more like insect screen than hardware cloth. It also shows the track sitting directly on the screen, which differs from my original description. There is no photo showing the landscape fabric that would sit directly on top of the screening. The landscape fabric obviously keeps the soil or ballast from falling through the screen. Also, there is landscape fabric and then there is a heavier variety that is basically a woven polyethylene. It would be the fabric of choice as it is almost bomb proof.

81Kb-+aUtbL._AC_SL1500_.jpg91uOt10FpFL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 

Madman

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I have seen it used over the years but not been 100 percent sure that the wood below holding it up would last that long. Where earth and plants are involved, even well drained needs for succulent type plants. Of course a lightweight construction using scrap metal would be a better bet if you can source it. Recycled plastic planks board siding such as Filcris would also work well but one has to remember the expanding issues with this product.

As for felt, my use has worked well, I use felt bonding at all joints and try to get better quality felt. If I am using screws I drill a small hole then put some bonding in to seal any egress of water that will sit under the felt to rot the wood. I did have an area where old cheep felt had rotted unseen allowing some decking to rot, only discovered when trying to screw a piece of scenery down. Just 1 place in over 12 years of wood in my current line with some wood to add 10 years to that moved from my old line.

Pressure treated wood should work well for many years. Or one of the composite decking materials might even be a better choice.
 

mike

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1000006036.jpgtanalised timber deck, heavy duty industrial weed membrane on top..fake grass and grit..
 

Tanker man

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I had a similar experience with 18mm ply rotting but replaced it with more second had 18 mm ply and roofing felt but this time I painted on a thick layer of ‘black jack’ liquid tar, also painted the under side of the roofing felt, pressed it down while still sticky and left the sun to bond it. That was a good four or five years ago and it has shown no signs of rotting so far, I did seal the edges quite well also.
Dave
 

GAP

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I thought there were more and better photos in this book. There are only two, but I think they show the concept. The screen shown looks more like insect screen than hardware cloth. It also shows the track sitting directly on the screen, which differs from my original description. There is no photo showing the landscape fabric that would sit directly on top of the screening. The landscape fabric obviously keeps the soil or ballast from falling through the screen. Also, there is landscape fabric and then there is a heavier variety that is basically a woven polyethylene. It would be the fabric of choice as it is almost bomb proof.

View attachment 327627View attachment 327628

The mesh shown in the LGB book looks like what is referred to in Aust as mouse mesh while the larger is called aviary mesh.
The black woven cloth we call weed control mat, it does allow water through but it does hold moisture and is not really UV stable as it is designed to go under mulch or soil.
I used shade cloth as it is UV stable and will allow water to pass straight through.
I opted for the cable tray because;
a. it is rigid
b. is galvanised and
c. is much easier to use than mesh which can take some effort to get taut.
There is a product known as geofabric but I would advise against it as it really does hold water. It is better than weed mat at suppressing weeds, I used it as a floor for my orchid house.
 
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