track bonding

[craigrailinc]

Can anybody advise me of the size of electric soldering iron I would need to wire bond the track together. tracks been out for a year and now starting to see some drop in current at the far end.
I put in intermediate feeds which work to a degree but feel it would be better just to solder it up as I have ne plans to change the layout.

 

[Neil Robinson]

GRS recommend 150 Watts minimum and sell a gas powered one for the purpose.
George Schreyer suggests 250 Watts and states that "100 watt irons are an exercise in frustration..."

 

[peterbunce]

<p><font size="3">Hi Craig,</font></p><p><font size="3">T</font><font size="3">he largest that you have, or can borrow! I use my father in laws 60 watt iron, the rail section needs a lot of 'heating up' to allow solder to 'flow'.</font></p><p><font size="3">Also if possible choose a warm, and windless day to go soldering iof possible ; an alternative which I use (with Peco G45 code 250) on curves are Hillman clamps (they are also made for code 332, (LGB etc) and there are other makes as well for 332 - Massoth for instance.</font></p><p><font size="3">To assist in heating up the rail you may be able to use one of those 'pencil flame' gas torches if you have a small soldering iron. Be careful with it and do not forget the large section of the rail will retain heat for quite a long time - when finished drop a very wet cloth over the rails to take out that heat.</font> </p><p>To assi</p>

 

[ge_rik]

<p>I use a 75 watt iron which seems well up to the job. I've even used it when there's been frost on the ground, though it does take a little longer to bring the rails up to temperature:</p><p> <a href="http://riksrailway.blogspot.com/2006/05/how-did-i-bond-rails.html"><img height="240" width="320" border="0" alt="Soldering iron" onmouseover="this.src='http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/3255/2762/320/DSCF0009.0.jpg';" onmouseout="this.src='http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/3255/2762/320/DSCF0004.0.jpg';" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/3255/2762/320/DSCF0004.0.jpg" /></a></p><p> Rik</p>

 

[Radish Bahn]

<p>I also recommend the use of a mechanical rail clamp to join the rails because it also holds the rails in alignment. My preference is for the Hillman clamps but there are lots of other choices. They are a bit pricey though.</p><p>On the rare occasion when I have had to solder a wire to the rails I found it best to drill a small hole in the rail then insert the wire. The hole creates a very clean surface for soldering and holds the wire in place until the solder cools.
</p>

 

[ge_rik]

Yes, the cleaner the rails the better. I use a small needle file to clean up the rail ends. Tried using the blade of a screwdriver but that wasn't anywhere near as effective and I ended up with a few dry joints.

Rik

 

[minimans]

Screw 'em!!

 

[Geoff the garden nav]

drilling a hole thats a really good idea, much more minimalist and neater than grinding the tarnish off and soldering onto the out side of the rail. http://www.gscalecentral.co.uk/images/emoticons/113.gif

 

[minimans]

I did at one time solder wires to the track but life is too short for that!! + if you want to change track layout you have to either desolder or have used a long enough wire to be able to cut & shut when your done, with the screw method you can simply unscrew and rescrew when your done. Well you can if you use plated screws and some copper slip when assembling in the 1st place! the photo in my last post shows the screws I used originaly which after a few years now refuse to come out in fact they all shear off the heads if you try! but the ones in these photo's are special plated screws designed for outdoor sheds and come out easily after a long period of years. they are larger but still do not 'Stick out' when viewed from normal distance and if they were painted a dull brown I don't think you would see them at all.

 

[Martino]

I tried the screw method too Paul, I thought I'd got the correctly plated outdoor types, but noooooo! Didn't even last a season, before I had problems getting them out. Shows what happens when you don't check what you're buying.

I did get a whole load of rail clamps at a bargain price a couple of months ago. Not the split jaws that I prefer, but pretty good anyway, and good and cheap. They have been a great buy.

Now all I have to do is replace the ballast that Tropical Storm Ida washed away earlier in the week!

 

[dunnyrail]

Having been involved with Electrics in the Garden Railway since 1983 I have tried a few methods. There are some that I have seen here that may be good, but Oh those skrews. Sorry guys but those big Posi Drive skrews offend the eyes.
Solder - Works fairly well.
..Advantage:-
- Fairly Cheep to do.
..Negative:-
- Pain when you move, I know as my line was bonded before I moved in 2000.
- Need to redo for alterations with cleaning up
- Have to do in Warm Weather. Do not underestimate the effect of cold on a soldering iron.
Rail Clamps
..Advantage:-
- Good solid bond that works long term, use LGB Graphite Grease and they will last at least 6 years and counting.
- Alterations easy.
- Security, your track is almost unmovable except as a big lump of train set. How easy would that be?
..Negative:-
- Cost.
So my money goes to Hillman or other Rail Clamps.
JonD

 

[palmerston]

no comment....

 

[minimans]

palmerston - 16/11/2009 8:53 AM

no comment....

I do like those but he's very very proud of them!!

 

[dunnyrail]

Yes those with the Nuts and wire from Palmerstone do look good, better than the Hillmans. But I think that they were more expensive/not available when I was looking
JonD

 

[Spule 4]

Splitjaw is what I am using, but there is a "generic" on eBay I may give a shot..... The LGB ones even with the graphite grease are not doing well within a year on my railway, and we won't go into the Aristocraft ones that fall apart at the folds.

For the pencil torch idea....would a heat sink be good on either side of the joint? I have heard to use wet rags, but I am thinking a small pair of "Vice Grips" on either side would also work from my past use of these in this manner?

 

[spike]

Neil Robinson - 15/11/2009 12:04 PM

GRS recommend 150 Watts minimum and sell a gas powered one for the purpose.
George Schreyer suggests 250 Watts and states that "100 watt irons are an exercise in frustration..."

Would agree with that.

I use a 175watt Weller.
The most important part is to polish the brass to a bright finish and tin both parts you are joining. Soldering is then easy and quick.