The Puutarharata

Zerogee

Zerogee

Clencher's Bogleman
25 Oct 2009
17,122
1,688
North Essex
Well well, according to the LGB 70403 starter set manual the lamps are E130023, and Clear Plug-In Light Bulb, 5 Volts,10 Pieces | Märklin says they are 5 volt lamps, so I need to further adjust the voltage for the lamps. No wonder why the lights were very bright...

As you've fitted the decoder by the direct plug-in to the factory circuit board, the lighting voltage SHOULD be dealt with by the regulator on the circuit board, just the same as when running on DC without the decoder....?

Normally you should only need to alter the lighting voltage CV in the decoder if you're directly wiring it to the lamps without the factory electronics in the loco.

Jon.
 
P

Paul M

Registered
25 Oct 2016
5,646
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57
Royston
Whooooooooooooooooooooooooooshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.....................................................................................
Splash!
 
Markku

Markku

Registered
19 Jul 2020
22
5
Finland
As you've fitted the decoder by the direct plug-in to the factory circuit board, the lighting voltage SHOULD be dealt with by the regulator on the circuit board, just the same as when running on DC without the decoder....?

Normally you should only need to alter the lighting voltage CV in the decoder if you're directly wiring it to the lamps without the factory electronics in the loco.

Jon.

CV 50 definitely affects the light brightness in this loco. I haven't measured the actual voltage in the lamps, but I now set CV 50 to 8, which should result in 20 V / 32 * 8 = 5 volts. (Updated: except that I don't know how the loco board further manipulates the decoder light outputs, I would assume that some of the changed dip switches would disconnect the on-board lighting voltage regulator if any)
 
Last edited:
Zerogee

Zerogee

Clencher's Bogleman
25 Oct 2009
17,122
1,688
North Essex
CV 50 definitely affects the light brightness in this loco. I haven't measured the actual voltage in the lamps, but I now set CV 50 to 8, which should result in 20 V / 32 * 8 = 5 volts. (Updated: except that I don't know how the loco board further manipulates the decoder light outputs, I would assume that some of the changed dip switches would disconnect the on-board lighting voltage regulator if any)

As far as I understand it (which may be wrong, I'm happy to be corrected if others know better), the lighting voltage regulator on the loco board should stay active after the decoder is plugged in - I've connected decoders to loco boards in the past (for example, an XL driving decoder into an old serial-sound Mallet, with function control connected via the six-pin LGB interface cable) and not had to alter the lighting CV on the decoder, because the loco's built-in regulator still took care of dropping the lighting voltage....

However others on here are much more knowledgeable about the technicalities of this than I am, so any other input would be useful!

Jon.
 
Markku

Markku

Registered
19 Jul 2020
22
5
Finland
As far as I understand it (which may be wrong, I'm happy to be corrected if others know better), the lighting voltage regulator on the loco board should stay active after the decoder is plugged in - I've connected decoders to loco boards in the past (for example, an XL driving decoder into an old serial-sound Mallet, with function control connected via the six-pin LGB interface cable) and not had to alter the lighting CV on the decoder, because the loco's built-in regulator still took care of dropping the lighting voltage....

However others on here are much more knowledgeable about the technicalities of this than I am, so any other input would be useful!

Jon.

In this case the lights were extremely bright with the default settings (= full track voltage). I didn't see that kind of brightness when driving with the 0-16 V DC controller earlier. But, maybe I didn't run much in full throttle anyway.
 
Markku

Markku

Registered
19 Jul 2020
22
5
Finland
Ha, I realized that the cab light has the lamp legs reachable, so I was able to measure the voltage: it's now 4.9 volts.
 
Markku

Markku

Registered
19 Jul 2020
22
5
Finland
Here is my "DCC box":

016CF1ED-2E61-4CC2-BCBB-13400FD73868.jpeg

B53C27DE-474C-4695-AF1C-6AB656D4BCCC.jpeg

It's a toolbox, about 40x20 cm. There is a small shelf supporting the MZSpro DCC CS. The wifi antenna does not need to be folded as there is a suitable gap in the lid profile. Track power is supplied to the banana sockets, the crocodile clips for the cable are just for the temporary testings. The idea is that the box is brought out when driving, the mains cable and the track power cable (which is preferably installed permanently somewhere outside) are connected, and off the trains go. The mains cable could also be routed through the box wall so that the lid could be firmly closed also when in use, if better weather protection is desired.

In the box and in the lid there is space for small tools or accessories as needed:

52D1D0B4-1223-4A50-A02D-617AAC936C43.jpeg