Scientific train using playmobil RC car system

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Here's a video of a scientific train with echo tender, eztec and playmobil bits, and playmobil RC car system. I tried to imitate the 4052 style of firebox. There's a little bit of before & after, as well as a demonstration of controlling two trains simultaneously on each axis of a playmobil RC car controller:
Normaily the scientific trains only have one speed, but the playmobil receiver/esc allows for a speed gradient.
There's a power switch on the tender and another at the bell of the loco. I still need to make the bell switch operate the firebox light, and replace the bell with a playmobil bell. I have some waterslide transfer replicas of the 4029 stickers from James, but I'm not yet sure if I want to waste some of them on this.
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
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Those Scientific Trains with particularly the loco and a decent Battery RC system make a good entry level Train for G, pity that they are not so easily available in UK. Though my x found a set in a Luton Cash and Carry that I was asked to look at before she bought it as an xmas pressy. Was very pleased with it even with no RC as it was a good steady runner. Got sold a few years back now.
 
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The bell for the Playmobil Western loco is still available from Playmobil direct services. Spares number 30801470 at 95 pence
Thanks for the tip Walt. Though I already have some extra bells. I think I'm actually going to use a non-playmobil chinese equivalent like the kind here: Playmobil train parts compatibility. - G Scale Central).

A difficulty is going to be in figuring out how to mount it, since I don't think I'll find a Steaming Mary bell holder, and even if I did I don't know if I'd want to use it on this. I may try to mold a copy of the bell holder from epoxy, as I've done with the water tank lid on the tender. But I'll still need to figure out how to access the switch beneath the bell (for the firebox light), while attempting to make it not look like a switch.
 
GAP

GAP

G Scale Trains, HO Trains
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Thanks for the tip Walt. Though I already have some extra bells. I think I'm actually going to use a non-playmobil chinese equivalent like the kind here: Playmobil train parts compatibility. - G Scale Central).

A difficulty is going to be in figuring out how to mount it, since I don't think I'll find a Steaming Mary bell holder, and even if I did I don't know if I'd want to use it on this. I may try to mold a copy of the bell holder from epoxy, as I've done with the water tank lid on the tender. But I'll still need to figure out how to access the switch beneath the bell (for the firebox light), while attempting to make it not look like a switch.
Mount the bell on the shaft of a Push/Pull switch that controls the firebox light?
Put a reed switch glued to a piece of metal under where the bell is and put a magnet on the bell then when the bell is in place the reed switch closes activating the firebox light?
 
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Mount the bell on the shaft of a Push/Pull switch that controls the firebox light?
Put a reed switch glued to a piece of metal under where the bell is and put a magnet on the bell then when the bell is in place the reed switch closes activating the firebox light?
Your first suggestion is closer to what I was imagining. I couldn't tell you how many reed switches I've broken with little effort, so I'd not like to use those. The original bell is on a cylinder with a cutout to grab the internal switch, so that when the cylinder of the bell(or the bell to which it is attached) is rotated, the switch is turned on or off depending on the direction of rotation. I think I need to keep the lower part of that cylinder as is inside the boiler to activate the existing switch, but the question is whether I should rotate the entire new bell holder(which might look odd when turned out of sync with it's natural position), or if I can come up with something less noticeable to rotate underneath the bell. If I do this, then the bell and it's holder do not been to be a part of the switch at all; they would merely reside over it. Once I come up with a bell holder I might have a better idea of how the rotating switch underneath it could look.
 
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Change of plans. The plastic of the female end of the tender wire connection broke when inserting the jumper wires with too much force. So I removed it and stuck an RJ45 ethernet socket in it's place, with a bit of filing and some hot glue to secure it:
IMG_6855.JPG


Now I have 8 lines from the tender (only using 4 at the moment), So the fire box light runs off of 2 AA's seated in the tender next to the 9V for the loco motor. The fire box light is now linked to the tender switch, and the bell switch is linked to the power for the train. Also replaced the firebox LED with a different kind; a double flickering LED set, which was salvaged from a higher end LED tea light candle. Two LED's make it a lot brighter, and there's more flicker.

I need to see if I have any black ethernet cables, and hopefully something without the protective end so it has more flexibility than this grey one. it's rigidity causes problems on R1 curves, and it was a challenge to get a knot of it to fit inside of the tender.
 
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You can remove the jacket to reveal the 4 twisted pairs... also you can find flat ethernet cables 6 inches long.
I removed the outer layer and it's much better now, thanks for the suggestion.
 
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The playmobil foothold on the tender seems to be working nicely and rotates well; the plastic of the echo toys tender floor happened to have the perfect thickness for the playmobil foothold to fit snugly with full rotational function:
my_photo-481.jpg


And the double flickering LED firebox lighting is also working nicely:
my_photo-480.jpg


I wanted to add a throttle to the cabin, but I didn't want to use a playmobil throttle which due to rarity I'd rather use elsewhere, so I made one from a playmobil sprue, and made stands from pen caps. The throttle is rotatable in the pen cap, but fits about as snug as playmobil throttles in playmobil trains:
my_photo-477.jpg

But the question is: Should I position the throttle for standing, or sitting?
my_photo-478.jpg
my_photo-482.jpg


The benefit of the sitting position would be that I could use the seat without worrying about the driver falling out of it. But in the sitting position, the throttle stand can really only be in one place to allow for the hand to hold the throttle, and that limits the position of the throttle to what is seen in the image. The benefit of the standing position would be that the throttle could be adjustable in more arrangements, since the position of the sitting feet near the cabin wall would not be limiting the position of the stand.

Standing:
my_photo-484.jpg
Sitting:
my_photo-483.jpg

Is it better in the standing or sitting position?