Playmobil train parts compatibility.

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playmofire

Registered
23 Oct 2010
6,342
683
North Yorks
#61
The sets 4106,4104,7522, 4034, 4033, 4032 include these "cargo stop" boards for flat cars:
proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fplaymodb.org%2Fparts%2F0%2F03%2F30%252003%25207390.gif&hash=1e3b8ad3c17a6a6b2bc159193e167595
Notice the 4 bumps on top.
PlaymoDB Part Info for "Cargo Stop"

However I have a cargo stop missing the bumps on top:
(click image to enlarge):
View attachment 242923 The cargo stop on the left is missing the bumps.

Does anybody know which set(s) the bumpless cargo stop is from?

-bbbb
I have a number of the cargo stops and all of them have the mouldings on top which are used to position the black chocks to hold loads such as vehicles or circular items in place. I wonder if someone has just sanded off the mouldings?
 
Xav204

Xav204

Registered
26 Jul 2017
218
408
49
Marseille FRANCE
#62
Dear All,

Please apologize, I didn't know this interesting thread was following its way.
I confirm that James made a great job with SM roof replica ( and the toolbox cover too )
Very impressive
In my case I stopped to look for the original ( too expensive for what it is )
as I'm very happy with James's replicas which are astonishing
I think James could go on this way.
Because I recently received a chimney made with 3D printer and I was a disappointed.
James created the replica the same way Playmobil is molding his pieces, so the result is quite the same

To come back to this part
104977_8f4dc7986e553301313ac2c6579e8e08.png

I think it is to be sure the wheels are staying on the tracks, on the referral/shunt particulary or reverse curve
Mine was too high, so my SM looks like prancing horse and the wheel of the middle didn't touch the tracks
( I think it was a wrongly replaced part, then I reduced a lot )

About the cargo stop missing bumps,
I think they are coming from the PM 4032 or 4034
( They might come from other box but I don't know its number )
They are not easy to find ( little parts easily lost )

Be careful, there are other stop bumps which are not suitable
104979_09cb160fb246e73b1a89b76c88ba90cb.png


Xav204
 

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korm kormsen

korm kormsen

Registered
24 Oct 2009
2,383
248
#63
The sets 4106,4104,7522, 4034, 4033, 4032 include these "cargo stop" boards for flat cars:
proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fplaymodb.org%2Fparts%2F0%2F03%2F30%252003%25207390.gif&hash=1e3b8ad3c17a6a6b2bc159193e167595
Notice the 4 bumps on top.
PlaymoDB Part Info for "Cargo Stop"

However I have a cargo stop missing the bumps on top:
(click image to enlarge):
View attachment 242923 The cargo stop on the left is missing the bumps.

Does anybody know which set(s) the bumpless cargo stop is from?

-bbbb
this will not help much, but i bought (if memory does not fail) one flat with a steaming mary set, and two as seperate cars in the middle of the '80ies. none have these bumps on top.
 
-bbbb

-bbbb

Registered
21 Dec 2017
146
88
Idaho
#64
I wonder if someone has just sanded off the mouldings?
It doesn't look sanded to me. Do you know what years yours were made? And about your previous post, I was only wondering about the brass pin, not the black one in the spring. I would love to see scans of the instructions though. I wish playmobil made pdf's of it available.
Do you have that brass pin? I think I'm missing a spring and spring-pin on my 2nd SM, but I was planning on making my own. I just had never seen the brass pin before and am not fully convinced that it's an actual PM part.
Be careful, there are other stop bumps which are not suitable
I think you may have misunderstood. When I said 'bumps', I was not talking about these:
proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fplaymodb.org%2Fparts%2F6%2F60%2F30%252060%25203850.gif&hash=4c42cba35708bbf5b4ebc3dd15cd130f

Rather I was talking about the moulding of the brown boards. There are 2 different kinds of brown boards in the picture I posted earlier. one variant has 4 bumps/lumps/projections on the top of one board and the other is flat/smooth on the top. I'm not sure where the flat/smooth variant is from. I'd still like to see a picture of your SM with James's roof, and how you've restored that old train.
this will not help much, but i bought (if memory does not fail) one flat with a steaming mary set, and two as seperate cars in the middle of the '80ies. none have these bumps on top.
That may help a bit. I wonder if the bumps were only on newer versions of the set than the one you bought. The one board I have came in a random lot of used parts which also included a steaming mary roof, and caboose parts among other things. So I can't verify when it was made, but it seems plausible that it may have came with the same kind of set you had.
 
korm kormsen

korm kormsen

Registered
24 Oct 2009
2,383
248
#65
can't help you much more.
the only documentation, that survived the decades is a exploded view of loco 30 65 845 (steaming mary), motorblock 30 65 262 and tender 30 65 846.
in one edge of that paper it says in fineprint: 08.88 (but i ignore, if that is a date)
 
P

playmofire

Registered
23 Oct 2010
6,342
683
North Yorks
#67
can't help you much more.
the only documentation, that survived the decades is a exploded view of loco 30 65 845 (steaming mary), motorblock 30 65 262 and tender 30 65 846.
in one edge of that paper it says in fineprint: 08.88 (but i ignore, if that is a date)
That is a date, August, 1988. For some strange reason nowadays instructions no longer seem to have that useful piece of information on.
 
korm kormsen

korm kormsen

Registered
24 Oct 2009
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248
#68
That is a date, August, 1988. For some strange reason nowadays instructions no longer seem to have that useful piece of information on.
in that case, memory did cheat me. if printed in '88, i could not have bought it in the mid 80ies.
 
-bbbb

-bbbb

Registered
21 Dec 2017
146
88
Idaho
#69
I think the 4034/4054 first came out in 1988 and was still released in years following. But supposedly the 4106 first came out in 1980. It's notable that I have a 4034 set of undetermined age with bumps on all of the cargo blocks, and korm seems to have the same set with no bumps. I thought there may have been other variations in the 4034 set as well, such as stickers on some versions and printings directly on plastic in other versions. Korm, did your bumpless set have a caboose with stickers or printings directly on the plastic? I also wonder if older 4106 sets came with or without bumps. I'm supposing the bumpless cargo blocks would be older than the ones with bumps, and seeing pictures of cargo blocks from an older 4106 may confirm that. Xav's post references a listing for a 4106 part, but there's no telling how old that 4106 was.
 
P

playmofire

Registered
23 Oct 2010
6,342
683
North Yorks
#70
in that case, memory did cheat me. if printed in '88, i could not have bought it in the mid 80ies.
in that case, memory did cheat me. if printed in '88, i could not have bought it in the mid 80ies.
All the SM sets first came out in 1988/89, but the 4106s, as -bbbb says, appeared in 1980/81 and didn't run long as they were discontinued in 1981/82,
 
korm kormsen

korm kormsen

Registered
24 Oct 2009
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248
#71
while the tender shows, that under the coat of spraypaint from me, there must have been stamped ornaments and text, the sprayed surface of the caboose is smooth. indicating stickers, that were not applied .
 
-bbbb

-bbbb

Registered
21 Dec 2017
146
88
Idaho
#72
Since Playmobil USA did not have any 4034 bells available, and they are apparently discontinued (for now) even though the same part number was re-issued in another set semi recently, I looked for an alternative, and found something suitable online and cheap:
109825_8b00fca0c4d10a9bb5ce817caa6fbc9b.jpg


The hole needed slight modification with a square file:
109827_1f2bfc4ad420de352fcb50ee3c6ea440.jpg


Click thumbnails to see larger versions of how the chinese bell fits the SM:


The clapper on the chinese bell is slightly longer than on the Playmobil bell, but it can be trimmed or replaced. I didn't trim the clapper in these images but it's slightly too long on the SM so that the ringing will not happen without trimming the clapper. I'm actually not using these chinese bells on trains since I had taken the same playmobil bell from a pirate ship to replace the one that was missing from a train. The chinese bell is designated for the pirate ship, and there the clapper length is just fine.
 
P

playmofire

Registered
23 Oct 2010
6,342
683
North Yorks
#73
Playmobil USA don't have a good reputation for spare parts. The bell is available from Playmobil UK for 95p.
 
-bbbb

-bbbb

Registered
21 Dec 2017
146
88
Idaho
#74
I found an unexpected compatibility and have a couple of questions perhaps someone here can answer.
I had a PM 3670 RC car module I wasn't using. And it includes this 27MHz Receiver:
111725_6a051c852f43fac0ef540664c5b95b47.png
I wasn't using it because the steering servo burnt out, and it's not worth replacing since the drive motor gears are also missing some teeth. The Module with the receiver, drive motor, and steering servo uses 4 AA's. One channel for the drive motor puts out about 5 volts +/- (whatever the batteries supply), while and the other channel is for a steering servo and originally has a steady 5 volt output as well as a third wire which puts out roughly somewhere between .15 and .30 volts.

I tried plugging this into my Steaming Mary tender to get RC control on the original motor block. But 4 AA's with around 5 volts makes for a very slow train. So I tried doubling the voltage with 8 AA's and I was relieved that the receiver did not burn up. But 8 AA's don't fit very well inside the tender with the battery holders I have, without modification to the tender. So I used a small 9 volt battery instead, and everything fits and works perfectly.
111722_5e01300707cac7d7e6cbd487b9d0e95c.jpg
111723_e3b0a96323748d2b003fb0bbd0f77b07.jpg
111721_d9bcb1748c0dba44623b33a76d73a0bd.jpg
(The old battery power forward/reverse switch is now a mere on/off switch.)

9 volts is a decent speed, though having the option to go faster would be nice. I'm not sure if I want to risk attempting to add another 9 volt battery in series for 18 volts on that old receiver which was originally intended for only 4 AA's. Does anybody know if that receiver would survive 18 volts?

(EDIT: I've since tested this and yes this receiver does handle 18 volts at least for the short time I've tested it, but the motor is much louder even at slower speeds this way).

Also, what advantage would adding an ESC to this have? Or does this receiver include one already? It already seems to function like other PM RC trains. The only problem is that I can not use a traditional PM 27 MHz train controller/transmitter, since those will only transmit to the steering servo channel, and I need to use the drive motor channel to get a wide enough voltage spectrum for the motor block. This RC Steaming Mary works well with any 27 MHz 2 channel transmitter though. I'm thinking I can maybe even use the servo channel to control sound, lights, or both. I just need to figure out how to make that work with the steering servo outputs... any ideas?. I'm also not sure where I could get an extremely cheap sound system(suggestions welcome).
 
Last edited:
-bbbb

-bbbb

Registered
21 Dec 2017
146
88
Idaho
#75
Question: Will the playmobil 5258 yellow frieght train 2.4 GHz controller bind with the Playmobil 6914 2.4 GHz RC Receiver?