Playmobil train parts compatibility.

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#41
...my chum is a skilled engineer and it took him two goes to get the rods spot on.
Did you have to use custom pins for the custom rods?

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James Day

James Day

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#42
Did you have to use custom pins for the custom rods?

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Good question:

In the thread Playmobil Ideas you will see me mention bespoke pins made from Acetal for putting RC type rods on track powered locos and a second type to allow them to to fit Sreaming Mary too....

However the brass rods were held in place by countersunk screws!

James
 
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James Day

James Day

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#43
I have been waiting for a fifth 3958 coach for years, but the only ones i have seen are being listed at £120 or so. Far more than I am prepared to pay.

The rarity of the 3958 and 4035 parts means if you want them, those are the sort of costs you either pay these days, or you go without. I am still without my fifth coach!

James
Funny I should say that above as on US e-bay right now is a nice complete mustard yellow 3958 coach

Buy it now - just 100 USD!

Is this a bargain - relatively it is as 100 USD is around 72 GBP

Sadly though postage adds another 40 GBP and then there is Customs to worry about....

Will I be buying it? Sadly no!

James
 
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#44
So I was doing some testing and found that there's no noticeable difference between the playmobil RC sender and receiver quartz's. Did you purchase 2 RC controllers with the same color quartz, but have no receiver quartz of that color? No problem. You can use the sender quartz from the controller in a train as a receiver, or vice versa. The only important factor is that the sender and receiver have the same frequency(color) as each other. The color coordinated plastic housing is keyed to be a sender or receiver, but you can pop out the quartz module from the colored plastic housing and plug the quartz in without it(though it may be more difficult to take back out like that), or you can put the quartz module into a different plastic housing. Walt's playmobil hints & tips site has a chart and explains how non-playmobil AM 27 MHZ quartz can be used in PM trains: http://www.walts-playmobil-collection.me.uk/hints_&_tips.htm I've found that you can also use non-playmobil 27MHZ RC controllers with non-playmobil quartz to control playmobil trains. Here is what I used:

I've also used a 27 MHZ playmobil 3670 RC car controller to control trains, but I must say that the non-playmobil Nikko controller had much greater range of speed on the playmobil trains than the playmobil 3670 RC car controller. So If you have a playmobil RC car without a controller, try a non-playmobil controller which will probably cost a lot less, just make sure you have a matching quartz set.

Also, I've noticed that quartz sets from playmobil are quite expensive(11 pounds for one pair from playmobil UK). But if these generic ones fit (size 49U), it seems you could get 15 pairs for less than $5 (postage included from Hong Kong) ( EDIT: The items linked were FM, not AM ) . Has anyone tried ordering generic replacement quartz from ebay for PM trains before? I'm assuming that PM quartz is of the type 49U shown here, because 49U is supposed to be between 10 and 11 mm wide, and that's about the width of the playmobil ones.
proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fupload.wikimedia.org%2Fwikipedia%2Fcommons%2Fthumb%2F5%2F5d%2FCrystal_Packages.jpg%2F514px-Crystal_Packages.jpg&hash=7c30c544b3619df600a3fce0d8c60fc9


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playmofire

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#45
I've used Futaba crystals to good effect with Playmobil, but you must remember to buy the correct sort, AM not FM.
 
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#46
Now I'm wondering if something like a futaba (or aristocraft, or whatever) 27 MHz AM receiver could be put into an electric PM train to control the motor, so it would function both as RC battery powered and electric track powered depending on the type of track you use. If that could work, it might seem better than chopping up a PM chassis to fit a PM RC block. I would assume that one channel on the receiver could be connected directly to the motor for forward and reverse control, but maybe I'm missing something. If I can get something like that working, then maybe the spare channel(s) could be used to control a bell or whistle, etc.

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dunnyrail

dunnyrail

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#47
You may have problems with that. For my Battery Conversions I need a Reciever and a Speed Controller typically a Viper. These I am sourcing from Fosworks but there are other suppliers of similar kit. The Aristocraft Crest for instance is a relatively simple single module. These days only Aristo Crest Sound Versions are available but I have a couple of non sound istallations that I add differing sound boards to.
 
PhilP

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#48
Now I'm wondering if something like a futaba (or aristocraft, or whatever) 27 MHz AM receiver could be put into an electric PM train to control the motor, so it would function both as RC battery powered and electric track powered depending on the type of track you use. If that could work, it might seem better than chopping up a PM chassis to fit a PM RC block. I would assume that one channel on the receiver could be connected directly to the motor for forward and reverse control, but maybe I'm missing something. If I can get something like that working, then maybe the spare channel(s) could be used to control a bell or whistle, etc.

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You can 'graft' any radio system into your loco.. - Dependent on space, and how the motor / track wiring is configured. A DPDT switch would select either track or battery power.
The simplest installation is basically four wires (for the RC system), two from the battery into the receiver an ESC, the two from the ESC to the motor.

You might be able to use other channels to trigger a sound card, but it depends on what the other channel outputs do. If they are available, and possibly if you can configure the system to trigger the sound card.

You do NOT have to use the sound output of a Revolution RC system.. You CAN use the triggers to control a different sound card.
 
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#49
The Aristocraft Crest for instance is a relatively simple single module.
Do you mean that the aristocraft crest has both a receiver and an ESC in one module? I wonder what the dimensions are on that.
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PhilP

PhilP

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#50
Do you mean that the aristocraft crest has both a receiver and an ESC in one module? I wonder what the dimensions are on that.
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Pretty large as the units are designed to plug-in.. If there is not a suitable socket, then you use a plug-on board for the major connections..
Think fan-driven pulsed smoke unit size, and you are somewhere near..

proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fencrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com%2Fimages%3Fq%3Dtbn%3AANd9GcSuE6HjW8bktYyyu9vhls9VW0iIR4ZOIoGXA9JJ_pRtTfAicmpwxA&hash=46a99c9fd91986a34d0c8974fac7700c

courtesy finescale brass
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

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#51
Do you mean that the aristocraft crest has both a receiver and an ESC in one module? I wonder what the dimensions are on that.
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As Phillip says sort of 2 25x45x65 mm. They both plug into each other with tha combined size I have just quoted. I have fitted one and batteries in one of my LGB 0-4-0's. Plus a Peter Spoerer Sound Card as I did not like the US Sound on the board.
 
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#52
I think I could make that fit. I'll keep an eye out for a deal on something like that.

Here is something else about PM parts compatibility, in case someone is looking for a potential alternative roof for the caboose cupola. Consider the roof on this animal feeder:
proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fplaymodb.org%2Fsetthumbs%2F6%2F6470_thumb.jpg&hash=76f71a521bfab92be1895cf306a42f18

Part number 30 06 6730 is found in sets 3692, 4208, 6248, and 6470, and is about the right size, sort of fits, and with a little work might make a suitable alternative.
96578_c215b60e84ff831ab3a0b65f7c268646.jpg

It could use paint and a walkway:

There is a gap in the side which would need to be filled:

It's a little bit less wide, but not noticeably, and the angle is also slightly different:

The outside edges of it's frame slots are perfectly lined up with the inside edges of the cupola wall, which adds a little bit of stability. You could probably make a cupola wall extension which plugs into the slot to close the gap between the wall and the roof, adding more stability:

It's somewhat stable as is, due to the positioning of the slots, but will fall off eventually unless secured a little better:

It's not so great as a SM roof. The angle doesn't match(leaving a gap), and it's very unstable. The width is just short enough that the ridge around the bottom edge of the roof doesn't seat well on the SM; it ends up leaning slightly to one side or the other but is wide enough to cover the opening:

On the other hand, the caboose cupola roof is the perfect angle for the SM and has a decent width (though not as wide as the original SM roof:

It's pretty stable if you tuck the cupola roof's front wall behind the SM's front wall:

Of course you would want to paint it, but you would probably also want to make a small notch in the support edge of the underside of the cupola roof so that it will seat properly where it meets the rear wall of the SM:

In case anyone is wondering, the SM roof does not fit the caboose cupola, as the SM roof's supports are slightly wider than the cupola's opening.

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PhilP

PhilP

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#53
Somebody at Playmobil is now scrabbling for these parts, and preparing a memo..
:););)
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

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25 Oct 2009
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#54
I think I could make that fit. I'll keep an eye out for a deal on something like that.

Here is something else about PM parts compatibility, in case someone is looking for a potential alternative roof for the caboose cupola. Consider the roof on this animal feeder:
proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fplaymodb.org%2Fsetthumbs%2F6%2F6470_thumb.jpg&hash=76f71a521bfab92be1895cf306a42f18

Part number 30 06 6730 is found in sets 3692, 4208, 6248, and 6470, and is about the right size, sort of fits, and with a little work might make a suitable alternative.
View attachment 237846
It could use paint and a walkway:
View attachment 237849
There is a gap in the side which would need to be filled:
View attachment 237850
It's a little bit less wide, but not noticeably, and the angle is also slightly different:
View attachment 237847
The outside edges of it's frame slots are perfectly lined up with the inside edges of the cupola wall, which adds a little bit of stability. You could probably make a cupola wall extension which plugs into the slot to close the gap between the wall and the roof, adding more stability:
View attachment 237848
It's somewhat stable as is, due to the positioning of the slots, but will fall off eventually unless secured a little better:
View attachment 237851
It's not so great as a SM roof. The angle doesn't match(leaving a gap), and it's very unstable. The width is just short enough that the ridge around the bottom edge of the roof doesn't seat well on the SM; it ends up leaning slightly to one side or the other but is wide enough to cover the opening:
View attachment 237852 View attachment 237853
On the other hand, the caboose cupola roof is the perfect angle for the SM and has a decent width (though not as wide as the original SM roof:
View attachment 237857
It's pretty stable if you tuck the cupola roof's front wall behind the SM's front wall:
View attachment 237854
Of course you would want to paint it, but you would probably also want to make a small notch in the support edge of the underside of the cupola roof so that it will seat properly where it meets the rear wall of the SM:
View attachment 237855
In case anyone is wondering, the SM roof does not fit the caboose cupola, as the SM roof's supports are slightly wider than the cupola's opening.

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Bunnies,basket and the other small rodent look useful as well.
 
James Day

James Day

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#55
Brian,

As someone who has helped me......

If you need a caboose cupola roof I have one spare that I will gladly send for the price of postage, along with one of my batch of replica SM cab roofs that I had made a while ago. If you seek a testimony to how good they are ask Xav!

May even have the duckboards for the cupola roof - need to check!

James
 
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#56
I will gladly send...
James you are very kind, however I'm not missing any of those pieces. I have 2 cabooses(one you already supplied buffers for, thank you very much) and both have all of their roof pieces. They are both complete except for the one chimney I had to construct a replacement for, one caboose has a non-white blanket for the bed(which is acceptable even though it is a bit pinkish, and one of the shiny lanterns has been substituted with a non-shiny lantern. I am curious how your SM roofs look, but a picture from you or Xav would satisfy that curiosity. If they are anything like your tool box covers I'm sure they are quite impressive.

Yes folks, the blankets that fit the caboose come in white, blue, orange, and this pinkish red:

(click thumbnail to enlarge)

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James Day

James Day

Guano Corner Rly - Runs weekly - Guano permitting
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#57
James you are very kind, however I'm not missing any of those pieces. I have 2 cabooses(one you already supplied buffers for, thank you very much) and both have all of their roof pieces. They are both complete except for the one chimney I had to construct a replacement for, one caboose has a non-white blanket for the bed(which is acceptable even though it is a bit pinkish, and one of the shiny lanterns has been substituted with a non-shiny lantern. I am curious how your SM roofs look, but a picture from you or Xav would satisfy that curiosity. If they are anything like your tool box covers I'm sure they are quite impressive.

Yes folks, the blankets that fit the caboose come in white, blue, orange, and this pinkish red:
View attachment 237906
(click thumbnail to enlarge)

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Thanks Brian,

If the situation changes, you are most welcome.

it is a copy moulding of the original, in black, so it looks just like the original, but is a very tiny fraction smaller. Off to work now, so no time for images....

Sorry!

James
 
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#58
I was looking for some parts for a 4054 I ordered this week and I came across a listing with the spring with pin, along with a brass pin which I hadn't seen before:
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/6l4AAOSwx5RanE3a/s-l1600.jpg

I was told that the purpose of the brass pin is to prevent the front assembly from popping out. However I couldn't find any information about this pin on playmodb( I don't have the assembly instructions in any form for any of the Steaming Marys so I couldn't check those). Is this actually a PM part? If it is, does anybody know the part number or if it has been used in other trains or other PM sets? And how much of an effect would this brass pin or it's absence have?

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#59
The sets 4106,4104,7522, 4034, 4033, 4032 include these "cargo stop" boards for flat cars:
proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fplaymodb.org%2Fparts%2F0%2F03%2F30%252003%25207390.gif&hash=1e3b8ad3c17a6a6b2bc159193e167595
Notice the 4 bumps on top.
PlaymoDB Part Info for "Cargo Stop"

However I have a cargo stop missing the bumps on top:
(click image to enlarge):
The cargo stop on the left is missing the bumps.

Does anybody know which set(s) the bumpless cargo stop is from?

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playmofire

Registered
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#60
I was looking for some parts for a 4054 I ordered this week and I came across a listing with the spring with pin, along with a brass pin which I hadn't seen before:
View attachment 242922 https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/6l4AAOSwx5RanE3a/s-l1600.jpg

I was told that the purpose of the brass pin is to prevent the front assembly from popping out. However I couldn't find any information about this pin on playmodb( I don't have the assembly instructions in any form for any of the Steaming Marys so I couldn't check those). Is this actually a PM part? If it is, does anybody know the part number or if it has been used in other trains or other PM sets? And how much of an effect would this brass pin or it's absence have?

-bbbb
The plans I have for the 4052 show the spring and an inner piece already assembled - I'll post a scan later today. The purpose is, indeed, to help keep the front assembly on the rails, especially, I think, over points and uneven lengths of track. I have had my 4052 apart recently, but I can't remember whether the assembly comes apart once it is removed from the underframe. It will be in pieces again soon and I'll take photos for you.