Playmobil 4052 loco and PRR tender

playmofire

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23 Oct 2010
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I knew I should never have got rid of all that Meccano that I had kicking about!

I had a small Meccano set as a youngster but never really got along with it. I remembered this as soon as I began trying to screw the back of the new coupling to the tender, a job where you need to hold the nut in a pair of crocodile nosed pliers between the back of the tender front panel and the securing clip for the motor and in line with the hole in the tender front panel while manoeuvring the back plate of the coupling over hole and getting the bolt to take a hold on the thread of the nut.
 

playmofire

Registered
23 Oct 2010
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760
North Yorks
Gordon there is a well under the cab and on mine the wiring leaves the boiler through the open bottom of the firebox into that well.

There is enough room there and in the firebox for your flasher etc and connections.

Rather than go through the cab you will see in the images in Playmobil Ideas that my wires leave the loco through the loco rear buffer beam to one side of the hook.

Obviously you will need to take account of the width of your tender coupling when drilling the hole.

Final idea - Thanks for the images showing how the Meccano brackets are fitted. Have you thought about adjusting the shape of the bracket nearest the engine to form a shallow curve? (Think of an LGB coupling loop). This might make the loco and tender buff more smoothly on sharper curves....

James

So something like the photo below, then, but with a hole drilled in the loco buffer beam and some sort of connector between loco and tender rather than just a wire.

DSCF0002.JPG

As regards the shape of the coupling, I really wanted to buy a drawer handle of the right shape but couldn't find one that didn't screw in from the back. I can imagine the shape, but I don't think Meccano would be the answer.
 
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Firemangrumpy

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13 May 2018
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So something like the photo below, then, but with a hole drilled in the loco buffer beam and some sort of connector between loco and tender rather than just a wire.

View attachment 238853

As regards the shape of the coupling, I really wanted to buy a drawer handle of the right shape but couldn't find one that didn't screw in from the back. I can imagine the shape, but I don't think Meccano would be the answer.

Handle like this?
https://www.therusticmerchant.co.uk/shop/bow-handle-4/

But the size is probably too big?
 
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James Day

Guano Corner Rly - Runs weekly - Guano permitting
6 May 2012
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So something like the photo below, then, but with a hole drilled in the loco buffer beam and some sort of connector between loco and tender rather than just a wire.

View attachment 238853

As regards the shape of the coupling, I really wanted to buy a drawer handle of the right shape but couldn't find one that didn't screw in from the back. I can imagine the shape, but I don't think Meccano would be the answer.


Three things:

Yes but no... I have the wire coming out of a hole in the loco rear buffer beam. one side of the hook, but clear of the buffing plate on the tender. I wouldn't want it being as low as you have it....

The wire doesn't need to be as massive as the LGB Point wire you are using. There is not much load on it, so slimmer and more fleible wire would be an asset.

Finally in you do some smithing on the Meccano parts you have, you could present a curve to the loco. If you fold the uprights of the anchor strip on the tender in just a fraction and then make a reciprical bend on the strip facing the loco you will find that the flat of the strip is now longer than the gap between the two uprights. The extra length could then be made into a curve to use up the length. Does that make sense?

buffing stip.JPG

Hope this crude sketch makes sense? A plain Meccacon strip would probably be better for the loop if you have one.

James
 
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playmofire

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Three things:

Yes but no... I have the wire coming out of a hole in the loco rear buffer beam. one side of the hook, but clear of the buffing plate on the tender. I wouldn't want it being as low as you have it....

The wire doesn't need to be as massive as the LGB Point wire you are using. There is not much load on it, so slimmer and more fleible wire would be an asset.

Finally in you do some smithing on the Meccano parts you have, you could present a curve to the loco. If you fold the uprights of the anchor strip on the tender in just a fraction and then make a reciprical bend on the strip facing the loco you will find that the flat of the strip is now longer than the gap between the two uprights. The extra length could then be made into a curve to use up the length. Does that make sense?

View attachment 238887

Hope this crude sketch makes sense? A plain Meccacon strip would probably be better for the loop if you have one.

James

Thanks for the tips about the wire, James.

I buy the Meccano bits as I need them and the strips and brackets are quite stiff for bending smoothly. I think I will see how present coupling works while keeping my eyes open for a replacement.
 
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playmofire

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Here's an update and, hopefully, a couple of short videos of the 4052 at the Kirkbean Playmobil Exhibition in July. I hadn't done all I wanted to do, but it was too good an opportunity not to run her. Dirty skates and wheels meant the initial runs were a bit jerky, but a good clean of these by Walter Turner solved the problem. There was a problem with the tender derailing on reverse curves when reversing, but this may have been because I had forgotten to replace the ballast weight in the tender.

Currently, work is underway on an "umbilical" between the tender and loco and fitting LEDs in place of bulbs. Eventually, the loco will carry the number 4052 in white with the letters S. & B. C. R. (Seaport and Beachtown Coastal Railway) in white on the tender sides.

Here are links to the two videos:


 
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-bbbb

Registered
21 Dec 2017
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Currently, work is underway on an "umbilical" between the tender and loco and fitting LEDs in place of bulbs. Eventually, the loco will carry the number 4052 in white with the letters S. & B. C. R. (Seaport and Beachtown Coastal Railway) in white on the tender sides.
I hope you don't forget to include the firebox lighting.
 

Xav204

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Very nice videos
It's always a pleasure to see the 4052 moving.
It is great you can exhibit your locos and wagons
Bravo
 

-bbbb

Registered
21 Dec 2017
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Idaho
Here was a simple way to get directional lighting in that tender:
I only had small resistors, so I put 4 of them in series to add up to about 800+ ohms, with the yellow and red LED's attached with leads opposite each other:
IMG_7574.JPG IMG_7575.JPG
I'm not sure if the extra reflective materials actually helped:
IMG_7578.JPG
Forwards and backwards:
IMG_7580.JPG IMG_7583.JPG
 
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JimmyB

Semi-Retired; more time for trains.
I just use Red/White bi-colour LEDs, two legs, and dependant on the direction of the current flow the LED changes colour.
 

playmofire

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I just used a white LED and reversed the wiring so it only lights when the loco runs in reverse.
 

-bbbb

Registered
21 Dec 2017
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Idaho
I just used a white LED and reversed the wiring so it only lights when the loco runs in reverse.
All you'd need to do is add one more LED (reversed) to the same wires, to have a different color for forwards.


Regarding Bi-color LEDs.... I would use them if I had them, but have to make do with what I have .
 
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-bbbb

Registered
21 Dec 2017
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Idaho
I was able to fit two 5mm LEDs in that hole by staggering them:
410679_IMG_7575.jpg

410678_IMG_7574.jpg

The red in the rear seems to come through brighter than the yellow. I'm not sure if it's because of the resistor placement, or the inherent quality of yellow vs. red LEDs. But the positioning of the LED's doesn't change that.
 

-bbbb

Registered
21 Dec 2017
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Idaho
I was able to get the firebox lighting to work in both driving directions by using a DIY rectifier with a couple of flickering yellows(from those little LED tea lights) and one solid red LED; All LEDs in parallel, with about 800 ohms of resistors in series. There's a few pieces of playmobil coal bumbling around in there somewhere.... Reflective materials help a lot here, but the ones I'm using are a sort of mirror paper.. I hope the heat of the LEDs and resistors doesn't start a real fire in there.....

IMG_7609.JPG
If I only knew what kind of capacitor would maintain this glow when the engine stops.....
 

-bbbb

Registered
21 Dec 2017
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Idaho
Here's how I did it:
schemat.png
And here's a video of it in action: