Playmobil 4052 loco and PRR tender

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playmofire

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#62
Have a look for jst connectors on eBay , there an industry standard cable, and cheap easy and reliable

Dan
I have used some Toshiba ones of those on my RC locos to work the lights.
 
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playmofire

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#63
Gordon,

I can't advise on how to do the firebox flicker - Mine were bespoke ones made by a very knowledgeable chum and were loming complex. A chum suggested using flickering Candle light LEDS in series with a red LED. and then a suitable resistor.

If Playmobil had evet done it ithemselves they would have use the good old bi-metal strip like you used to get with Xmas lights, but try getting one of those today!

For the umblical between loco an tender some two core flat fire and a suitable small plug and socket are needed. My wire came out under the tender drop plate and the one from the loco went under the cab and came out through the rear loco buffer beam. Take a look at 'Playmobil Ideas' thread and you can see images of how I tackled loco to tender conections on the 4052 and Steaming Mary.

James
I've seen a reference to a flicker unit on eBay on GSC which will do the job.

As regards the umbilical, I've followed up all search results on "umbilical", but none explain what you connect to what. Do you simply wire the tags on the loco which power the lights to the equivalent tags on the tender, for example?
 
James Day

James Day

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#66
Thanks, I'll try those once I've got what to wire where sorted out.
Sorry Gordon,

Been busy! Yes - Exactly - Commected the tags on the pick ups on the loco in parrellel to those on the tender.

Imagine you have two loose Playmobil motor blocks running around your layout... if you want to connect them electrically you would run a pair of croc clip leads between the two tags that stick up from the pick ups..... That is what you are going to do here, but include a flasher and a couple of lights in the circuits too!

I would suggest that you use either a small bit of circuit board in each part of the loco - one in the tender and one in the loco. Take the feed from your pick ups to that and then from it take the supply to the light, firebox and the umbilical. You could use a choc block if you like, as you have done before.

Feed the umbilical wire out under the running plate of the tender and through a hole in the rear buffer beam of the loco. Your plugs will join those together.

The only thing you can really get wrong is cross wiring the two poles of the umbilicals, but it is easily spotted if you have as when placed the joined up loco and tender on the track -everything shorts out! Been there! - Done that! Easily put right too, thankfully!

Good luck!

James
 
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playmofire

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#67
Thanks, James. I was thinking of a choc-bloc as then, if I use a lengths of wire with the Playmobil push-on connectors there is no need for any soldering. Or would heavy duty wiring be better for the tags to the choc-bloc?
 
James Day

James Day

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#68
Gordon,

It doesn't need to be too heavy duty wire, as most of the time there will no real current going along it. The only time the umbilical comes into its own is when one unit of the loco & tender combo gets momentarily beached....

LGB umbilicals are very thin, like the flat wire that connects computers. I use something like that. Maybe twin flat 1 or two amp wire from shops....

If you are going to use chock blocks, that is fine, but whenever I use them I always wrap the wires going into a single hole on the choc block together and then cement them together with a touch of solder..... just to be sure!

There is loads of room in the 4052 so choc blocks will not get in the way.

Good luck!

james
 
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James Day

James Day

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#69
Gordon,

It doesn't need to be too heavy duty wire, as most of the time there will no real current going along it. The only time the umbilical comes into its own is when one unit of the loco & tender combo gets momentarily beached....

LGB umbilicals are very thin, like the flat wire that connects computers. I use something like that. Maybe twin flat i or two amp wire from shops....

If you are going to use chock blocks, that is fine, but whenever I use them I always wrap the wires going into a single hole on the choc block together and then cement them together with a touch of solder..... just to be sure!

There is loads of room in the 4052 so choc blocks will not get in the way.

Good luck!

james
PS: Just one final thought on this. When the wired up link is in place the loco will run really well. In fact so well that you may not auotmatically notice if collection from one or more of the wheels is actually lost. Every now and again when you look the loco over check that each wheel wiper is still actually wiping and doing what it ought to!
 
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playmofire

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#70
In the last few days as tine allowed I've been doing a bit of work on the tender coupling.

A friend on another forum suggested that trying to glue the broken coupling loop on wouldn't be a long term solution and that a nut and bolt job was the answer. (He had had a local blacksmith make a loop for him.) To start with, I looked at curved drawer handles of the right size, but most of these were fixed by screwing from behind and this was not possible. A reference on here to meccanspares.com made me think of making a coupling loop out of Mecanno and so I ordered the parts I needed (I've put in two orders and both were delivered the following day).

The first thing to do was to cut off the remains of the original coupling loop ( photo 1) and then mark out where the Meccano replacement would go and do a test fit (photo 2). The third picture shows the Meccano coupling bolted into place.

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playmofire

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#71
97326_4aa780fccd3e3ce3e2c71fdf0371058d.jpg
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I did the final fitting in a hurry and fitted the coupling loop higher than intended. Originally (photo 1) I meant to have about 2mm vertical clearance between the bottom of the Meccano and the top of the support of the coupling hook on the loco, but nw there's much more (photos 2 and 3). However, I don't think there's any risk of the two separating (photo 4).
 
James Day

James Day

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#72
View attachment 238647 View attachment 238648 View attachment 238649 View attachment 238650 I did the final fitting in a hurry and fitted the coupling loop higher than intended. Originally (photo 1) I meant to have about 2mm vertical clearance between the bottom of the Meccano and the top of the support of the coupling hook on the loco, but nw there's much more (photos 2 and 3). However, I don't think there's any risk of the two separating (photo 4).

Well done Gordon. Great progress and some nice clear images to show it.

There are several issues with the original latic couplings which do seem to arive broken, (although I have never smashed one myself) and they are not easily replaced, as there is little room inside to fix one due to the proximity of the motor block.

Your soloution provides not only a hook but a buffer plate too, to allow for smooth push pull operation........

Dare I ask, did you super glue it in place?

James
 
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playmofire

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#73
Well done Gordon. Great progress and some nice clear images to show it.

There are several issues with the original latic couplings which do seem to arive broken, (although I have never smashed one myself) and they are not easily replaced, as there is little room inside to fix one due to the proximity of the motor block.

Your soloution provides not only a hook but a buffer plate too, to allow for smooth push pull operation........

Dare I ask, did you super glue it in place?

James
Many thanks for your comments, James.

It's bolted in place with two bolts, one either end of the Meccano bracket. Unfortunately, I don't seem to have taken picture showing this! I'll take one and add it for the record.

On another point, you mentioned running the umbilical under the tender running plate; showing my ignorance, what is that, please?
 
James Day

James Day

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#74
Hello Gordon,

Thanks! I can see the bolts at the end, but not onthe flat of the bracket against the tender. From the photos it seems to hang there like majic in the way that bricks don't!

Running Plate! Ooops Meant drop plate - the bit you are missing and going to make.

Sorry!

James
 
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playmofire

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#75
A post to start with showing the bolts fixing the new coupling to the tender. (The bolts holding the front plate on have been slackened so it can fold down for the picture.)
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playmofire

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#76
The next stage is wiring up the tender so that the rear lights can be powered from the motor and an "umbilical" connection made to the loco motor to guarantee smooth running over points, where otherwise one of the motors might "stall".

Not being a dab hand at soldering, I will use "chocblocs" and piggy back connectors with slide-on female connectors on the wiring. Here are some photos showing what I mean. (I've tried porcessing and uploading the first one a number of times, but it seems to go corrupt, hence the misalignment.)

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playmofire

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#77
For wiring, I have the choice of LGB wire or some OO gauge wire for points, which handily come with slide-on connectors already fitted.

For the "umbilical", I've got a ready made one from an RC car supplier.


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playmofire

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#78
The loco motor and tender motor will both have the same wiring (lights and "umbilical") although the loco may also have a flickering red LED as well, but more of that later.

When it comes to running the wiring, the easiest route seems to be run the wiring from the tender under the front edge of the tender body, either centrally or where the "doors" would be fitted on one side and then straight across to the loco.

For the loco, the easiest route seems to be to drill a small hole towards the bottom of the boiler back plate in the cab and run the wires for the "umbilical" through the cab to join up with the end from the tender.
 
James Day

James Day

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#79
The loco motor and tender motor will both have the same wiring (lights and "umbilical") although the loco may also have a flickering red LED as well, but more of that later.

When it comes to running the wiring, the easiest route seems to be run the wiring from the tender under the front edge of the tender body, either centrally or where the "doors" would be fitted on one side and then straight across to the loco.

For the loco, the easiest route seems to be to drill a small hole towards the bottom of the boiler back plate in the cab and run the wires for the "umbilical" through the cab to join up with the end from the tender.
Gordon there is a well under the cab and on mine the wiring leaves the boiler through the open bottom of the firebox into that well.

There is enough room there and in the firebox for your flasher etc and connections.

Rather than go through the cab you will see in the images in Playmobil Ideas that my wires leave the loco through the loco rear buffer beam to one side of the hook.

Obviously you will need to take account of the width of your tender coupling when drilling the hole.

Final idea - Thanks for the images showing how the Meccano brackets are fitted. Have you thought about adjusting the shape of the bracket nearest the engine to form a shallow curve? (Think of an LGB coupling loop). This might make the loco and tender buff more smoothly on sharper curves....

James
 
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dunnyrail

dunnyrail

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#80
A post to start with showing the bolts fixing the new coupling to the tender. (The bolts holding the front plate on have been slackened so it can fold down for the picture.) View attachment 238800
I knew I should never have got rid of all that Meccano that I had kicking about!