I've seen a reference to a flicker unit on eBay on GSC which will do the job.Gordon,
I can't advise on how to do the firebox flicker - Mine were bespoke ones made by a very knowledgeable chum and were loming complex. A chum suggested using flickering Candle light LEDS in series with a red LED. and then a suitable resistor.
If Playmobil had evet done it ithemselves they would have use the good old bi-metal strip like you used to get with Xmas lights, but try getting one of those today!
For the umblical between loco an tender some two core flat fire and a suitable small plug and socket are needed. My wire came out under the tender drop plate and the one from the loco went under the cab and came out through the rear loco buffer beam. Take a look at 'Playmobil Ideas' thread and you can see images of how I tackled loco to tender conections on the 4052 and Steaming Mary.
Like these:Have a look for jst connectors on eBay , there an industry standard cable, and cheap easy and reliable
Thanks, I'll try those once I've got what to wire where sorted out.Like these:
Scroll down to 'JST SM 2 pin 2.5mm connector (pair)'..
Sorry Gordon,Thanks, I'll try those once I've got what to wire where sorted out.
PS: Just one final thought on this. When the wired up link is in place the loco will run really well. In fact so well that you may not auotmatically notice if collection from one or more of the wheels is actually lost. Every now and again when you look the loco over check that each wheel wiper is still actually wiping and doing what it ought to!Gordon,
It doesn't need to be too heavy duty wire, as most of the time there will no real current going along it. The only time the umbilical comes into its own is when one unit of the loco & tender combo gets momentarily beached....
LGB umbilicals are very thin, like the flat wire that connects computers. I use something like that. Maybe twin flat i or two amp wire from shops....
If you are going to use chock blocks, that is fine, but whenever I use them I always wrap the wires going into a single hole on the choc block together and then cement them together with a touch of solder..... just to be sure!
There is loads of room in the 4052 so choc blocks will not get in the way.
View attachment 238647 View attachment 238648 View attachment 238649 View attachment 238650 I did the final fitting in a hurry and fitted the coupling loop higher than intended. Originally (photo 1) I meant to have about 2mm vertical clearance between the bottom of the Meccano and the top of the support of the coupling hook on the loco, but nw there's much more (photos 2 and 3). However, I don't think there's any risk of the two separating (photo 4).
Many thanks for your comments, James.Well done Gordon. Great progress and some nice clear images to show it.
There are several issues with the original latic couplings which do seem to arive broken, (although I have never smashed one myself) and they are not easily replaced, as there is little room inside to fix one due to the proximity of the motor block.
Your soloution provides not only a hook but a buffer plate too, to allow for smooth push pull operation........
Dare I ask, did you super glue it in place?
Gordon there is a well under the cab and on mine the wiring leaves the boiler through the open bottom of the firebox into that well.The loco motor and tender motor will both have the same wiring (lights and "umbilical") although the loco may also have a flickering red LED as well, but more of that later.
When it comes to running the wiring, the easiest route seems to be run the wiring from the tender under the front edge of the tender body, either centrally or where the "doors" would be fitted on one side and then straight across to the loco.
For the loco, the easiest route seems to be to drill a small hole towards the bottom of the boiler back plate in the cab and run the wires for the "umbilical" through the cab to join up with the end from the tender.
I knew I should never have got rid of all that Meccano that I had kicking about!