I was lucky to find the right screwdriver which helps me to raise up and remove handles, one side after the other... I break some handles when I am wrong about the holes I made, when I press in the middle of the handles or when the plastic is thicker than PM plastic ( then the spur does not stand out behind )
Bit more work done, stripped the loco back down, painted the rods with 99p chrome paint and dusted with satin black, Gives a good tarnished metal look, best I think I can manage without remaking the motion in metal. Frames and cylinders painted and refitted.
Cab is now, err, black. I will glaze the forward and rear facing windows but leave the side ones open I think.
It's Staple Hill Light Railway, a homage to the railway that was long removed that ran through a tunnel under the houses on the opposite side of the road from my house. There were also a few local locomotive manufacturers but who escapes me right now.
Small update, work has gone well on the RC/DC track power system, the PWM ESC works wonders at low loco speeds. Really happy with it as a simple control system.
Box work in progress.
All buttoned up with the cheapy aero controller I am using, has a throttle stick so speed can be set and left
I have an Iroda SolderPro 70 gas iron with a hotknife attachment. I use it a lot for work, repairing bumpers and door mirrors, that kind of thing. The thing with plastic welding that most people get wrong is to try to just use a cable tie as filler, which is fine as long as the plastic you are welding is the same as the cable tie! You need to use slivers of plastic from what you are welding cut from somewhere you can't see, in this case there is loads of excess inside the boiler I could use. I just used Isopon P38 to smooth the boiler over when I'd done. It's a bit messy but it's what I had to hand.
It's been a tad quiet on the railway front due to commitments in the early part of the year with the Dig For Victory show, which is all done and dusted now. The loco has all been buttoned up and painted but I need to tear it all down again, the reasons I will come to shortly. I have had it out running at a BBQ recently though so it's getting used.
I've just come back from a short family holiday in Lowestoft, where I spotted a Playmobil 5258 freight loco set minus box and figures on Facebook marketplace for SILLY (cheap) money so I jumped on that, couldn't say no. I am much happier with this than the 4050 loco which I never liked enough to actually want to buy but I wanted a diesel loco, so this is ideal. Obviously will get torn down, get the diode speed mod and a repaint but for the money it's brilliant. Going to see if I can improve the sound effects speaker as it's quite tinny and the loco seems pretty roomy inside from photos I've seen. Maybe a baffle and a more full-range speaker would help. Gumtree and FB marketplace are great for silly bargains provided people don't mess you about too much.
I've also decided that I want to convert to RC across the board. I don't have the time to maintain outdoor track for track power in my mind so this seems the best solution. I already have all the parts bar a decent battery so I've ordered that now and I will crack on with the rebuild (again) on the steam engine. I can then play with the million other functions my controller has and potentially add controllable lights and sound.
Don't panic, the Steam engine is 4051, and I have big plans for that involving further reworking to get it more in line with what I think it ought to look like to run on the SHLR . The 4050 is the alternative shunting diesel of which I don't have and never really liked asthetically enough to buy.
The tanks are made by Cobi (Blocks and toys for kids from Cobi - internet shop), they do a large range of historic military 'lego' kits, I have a few tanks, Willies jeep, a half track, Staghound armoured car (which is and odd kit to produce) and a ZIL 131 missile truck.
Started stripping the steam loco again tonight, managed to get the wheels off the axles at one end to quarter them up properly in case I decide to make some valve gear that isn't one piece of moulded plastic
Yes you are right about the catalogue numbers. Still really like your 4051 though. The 4050 later appeared in RC form as the 4084 and I like all of those too. Far more than the last long wheelbase light and sound RC diesel that they did.
If you are looking to have separate working coupling and conecting rods: the stuff PM made for the RC series steam locos is good and can be fitted to the earlier 4051, 3958 and even 4052 locos, once the wheels are quartered and the cylinders are simply modified. In fact even Steaming Mary can have coupled wheels if the built in excessive 'float' in them is restricted: See the thread Playmobil Ideas for all this.
Bit more bashing. battery fits nicely here, charge lead can pop up the chimney which is easily removed for access. Following on from moving the funnel and removing the lamp earlier on, I decided to lose the brake pump, reservoir and dynamo too as it clutters it. It's a dumpy little thing and it looks quite over crowded. I have some lamps coming to see if I can fit.