Loft Railway build.

Harry

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Hi folks,

I posted a short while ago about possible thread corruption, which was a bit stupid really as not only can't I see my own post, I can't see if anyone has replied either.

So, if you have replied, I'm not being rude and ignoring you, it's simply that I can't see your reply.
 

Harry

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Harry, What is the resolution of your screen?

Greg
Hi Greg,

I think it's 1440 x 900. Incidentally, Page 2 is fine at the moment, it's only page 1 that's scrambled.

Jon has now confirmed that other people do not seem to be having any problems which suggests it must be something at my end, so I'm going to try it on a different PC.

Regards, Harry.
 

dunnyrail

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Not posted much in the last few days but work has been ongoing and the boards are now clear of carp so that track planning has been progressing. But first I pleaded for some more R1 and this has been granted thanks to Mike plus an offer from Gizzy. I had been playing around with the concept of even more R1 to get a busier layout, but that in itself became a little self defeating. But a look at the plan below shows what I mean. The plan does not quite match up atbthe top as it should, the Station with LGB is 3 through roads as the bottom one is. A classic continental Station Plan.
2F864323-9984-4EDA-B259-9C7838A92379.jpeg
So the R1 will just be used to exit the Stations and used on the left and right fiddle/passing tracks with Peco as shown on the inset scribbled plans will be used in the Stations. Giving what I hope will be a less is more Railway. All the Peco has been converted to live frogs so the running on DCC will be perfect with clean track, that will stay as such in the loft environment dust permitting. Below the 2 pics show the Peco points laid out to see what can be achieved.

This pic shows the Station which will have the Mine bottom right. Siding toe the right behind the Tank Wagon will be a siding to store empty Coal Wagons waiting loading or perhaps loaded ones waiting a train. Siding to the top left will be a Factory. This gives me pretty well everything that I had planned with R1 but with less need to purchase loads more LGB than I have already agreed to buy. Plus I use the Peco that I had been buying for this project. It would not have been practical to use Peco in the Fiddle Yard or passing Sidings due to space limitations. Where the Tank and Tram Loco stand will allow for running round 3 LGB Toytrain Wagons, just what I plan to use as a load with perhaps a Coach added for the Guard to make shunting more complex.
E3ABC59A-440A-49F5-B816-0BE1B8BE7624.jpeg
Below the other Station, no Loco or Carriage Shed but I like this layout and it is one that I have used in the past that gives interesting operation. Just a passing loop and the two sidings one with a kick back. Should give more space for buildings.
7117EC66-04FE-40B8-8387-51EE32EFE4D9.jpeg
Oh the other thing I did today was to install the 4 LED lights that I sourced from the net, the lighting is so much better now and it comes on immediate unlike the single orrible neon that I had before.
 
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playmofire

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Looks good; lots of operational value there.

I like the Continental 3 track layout at stations; it provides lots of flexibility for running. The only time my great-nephew showed any interest in running trains other than flat out was where there was a three track station allowing him to drop off one train and then pic up another or runaround a train and reverse the journey or swap rolling stock between trains.
 

dunnyrail

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Have been doing some odds and ends towards the line. First up I have been removing LGB Fishplates using the method that I linked a few days back.

Short Track Pieces - G Scale Central {Post 9}

Have to say that it works superbly and a lot of fishplates have been removed in short order and replaced after the tab was twisted off with pliers. You do need to use a Vice though, I experimented using a Mole Wrench and does not work as you are using the Vice for some sideways preasure. Alhough I will be using Massoth Clamps on the LGB I want to get the layout setup and do a few test runs with a Battery Loco or two to see that it all hangs together as I want it to. This will involve derisory running with rolling stock to test capacity etc. Well ok just a bit of a train play if you must.

The other thing that I have done today was to make the 4 LBG R1 points that I have more reliably electronically wise. I am not a great believer in the bit of metal or tabs that pass power from the stock rail to the moving rail so have been soldering up wire to make a permanent connection. As these points use the system where these two rails would be the same polarity (for want of a different word) the joining of them is a viable and important step towards reliability so this little mod has relevance in the garden as well.

But first up some pics of points! Ok boring I know but I had not appreciated the difference between LGB R1 points and LGB R1 points. Just look at the 2 pics below, note the difference in length of the movable rail and the differing methods on current connection. Also note on the point below in the second picture that I have already put some wire in to replace a stamped joiner. These can and do fail in the harsh life of points outside and it is well worth checking this before laying points, even new ones. 1942F1C8-ABC0-4650-987D-0265C80A824E.jpeg B7349198-9173-4A52-83DB-1B81CE80BA54.jpeg
So what I have been doing for the fix to the movable part is to drill holes theough the webb, then pass and solder this to the stock rail. I use black wire for obvious reasons and it is a thing of mine to moan when I see any other colour used for both this or normal track feeds except perhaps in fiddle yards. First job was to drill the webb 4 times in each point, I use a vertical drill for this as using a hand held mini drill will result in lots of broken drills. Note that I have also raised the side I am drilling with a scrap of approx 10mm MDF so that the hole goes through the webb and does not try to creep to the side of it.
A05A97A3-AEB4-4953-AE8B-EFDFFDDB38D4.jpeg
So after some soldering this is the result. The same treatment could be done for any of the frog rail contacts that are failed. However if you are using these in the garden or anywhere that is scenic I would suggest running the electrical wire inside the sleepers, bit more of a faff with some more hole drilling of sleepers but worthwhile if you are concerned with aesthetics. Incidentally this process is also worthwhile with LGB R3 points as well. Note also on the lower point some extra brass wire, this was a very used and abused point and the outer stock rail was held in place by a will, certainly not any plastic as you can see if you look closely.
39255A78-4729-4581-8573-2D9300960C40.jpeg
 
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dunnyrail

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Nice work on reclaim, recycling and reusing, top job all round.

Though out of curiosity, what's the story about the screwdriver?
Oh that was the big screwdriver used to remove the fishplates.
 

Paul M

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Somebody left it on a hot cooker, per chance? :rofl:
 

dunnyrail

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voodoopenguin

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Oh the other thing I did today was to install the 4 LED lights that I sourced from the net, the lighting is so much better now and it comes on immediate unlike the single orrible neon that I had before.
Something I have been wanting to do for a while, can you direct me to the type you went for please?

Paul
 

dunnyrail

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idlemarvel

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dunnyrail

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Had a nice delivery of track from Mike today, that has sorted me out with the rest of the LGB or 332 track I needed as 2 of the points are Aristo R1 but they are fine for the fiddle yard. Probably good that I thank those from the Forum that have sold me track towards the project all at very reasonable prices I have to say.

beavercreek Mike LGB Track/Points and a couple of Aristo Points all R1.
MaybachMD Simon Peco Track and points
Casey Jones Peco Track and 1 point

So below is the little pile that arrived today. Most of it has had the Fishplates removed by the method listed earlier, even including 3 600 mm lengths with central fishplates though they are still present.
7D494546-D9F3-4EC9-B0A2-42732000CB27.jpeg
Here is the North Yard as laid out, just waiting some Massoth Clamps ordered from Muns today also of the Forum. The Track sticking up in the air is on the pile of Cardboard that I will be using to make Buildings with. Probably should move it to store elsewhere whilst track laying is occurring. This may get adjusted some yet.
5882ACDC-5535-4622-B597-9EDDB50CA196.jpeg
 

dunnyrail

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Have been fiddling about with the LGB Track and revising the North Yard. But first I had a few more fisplates to remove then I have cleaned the top of the rails to get them nice and shiny using my preferred cleaner I.E. the LGB hand held block. Looking at the last pic on the previous post plus the plan in post #24 things have changed a little. I have been thinking about an Operating Schedule and the traffic arriving the East Yard from the North I.E left will be pretty small thus a short siding for what will likely be a Railcar and the odd wagon or two is all that will be required. This will be the siding with the Buffer Stop. Arriving from the South (right below) is likely to be somewhat busier thus more space will work better. In any case a run round to maximise space is also desirable for Train lengths. Thus the redesign shown below. A kick back to where the Peco box is may be desirable and thought about.
3CA8F554-9025-476E-95DC-A1BCA1259913.jpeg
0FC4191B-719F-4931-8BDC-83ECC5832C02.jpeg
Main power for sockets has also arrived, the pic below showing the South End of the mine Station laid out loosly with Peco shows this. There is another socket at the other end of this Station seen by the vice in one of the above picture.
D85DC359-556C-4A5E-B590-570887A06196.jpeg
Another shelf has been added above the North Yard, it was a somewhat thicker white board than normal so has been routed to track width so that any stock can be stored safely. The cleaner lines of the revised Yard can be better appreciated here, the run round will accommodate 4 standard LGb (likely 5 Toy Train the main wagons to be used) vehicles the same length as the Tank on the shelf.
CF39649C-6DE7-449C-BDCA-7070428AC065.jpeg BDF4D813-6F0E-498F-A086-DA715BF12C70.jpeg
 

dunnyrail

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Have been beavering away at cleaning rail joints, putting on Massoth Clamps and wiring up the East and West Fiddle/Passing loops. These are all now fitted in place and wired up to the small panel that I have made so that I can turn sections on and off if I need to but also swop one of the sidings so that it can be used as a Programming Track. The prog track has a DODTCO switch to swop between main and prog. Main will of course be its normal setting and be the same as when all the other sections are on. The pics below show the panel which was made from a bit of Ally that had been left in the Shed after the construction of the Bridges out of my Shed probably 6 long years ago now. All comes in useful in the end.

The switches are some largish mostly DPDTCO ones but one is a DPDT and the other just an on/off. Thus the 2 fiddle yards share a common feed to the inside rail sorted by a jumper wire on the choc block that connects the panel to the wires ‘out to‘ sections. As is common on my Garden Line I refer to inner and outer rail so that I understand how wiring will go and the outer rail on the Black and Grey speaker wire that I use has the thin line on the wire (black on the grey and white on the black) to the outside rail thus ensuring no unwanted shorts. This convention may not always work for everyone and if you have a figure of 8 you need to remember that the convention is reversed when you have gone round the loop.

As you can see I pre planned the wiring on paper and soldered up the panel in the downstairs workshop, just a couple of revisions being required during that process. The scribbles relate to Left Right East West and Prog. That is the orientation of the switches as seen. Note thatbthe prog switch is somewhat lower than the others to differentiate it. In the fullness of time a label will be made to stick on the panel.
332824E0-92B5-44A2-97CE-FE232C728FAC.jpeg D4B06A03-BA1A-4AE6-9A53-D9FB33D433B8.jpeg
The final pic of just the panel shows it in position prior to wiring up to the line, I had not thought about the fact that putting it in place would compress the wires behind the ally, not a good idea so 3 bits of wood were quicky cut up to provide a tunnel for the wires so that the choc could be screwed to the board. Note the piece of paper to show the prog and main so that I do not get them mixed up.
6CE5E0E5-F444-46A2-880C-D270947A9B30.jpeg
That having been done the next job was to join up the sections to the track. For this I have a feed at each end of each section as I have done in the Garden, this has many benefits in my view as if a track joint goes faulty you will still get power from the other end. In the 7 years that I was using track power in the Garden I never had a failure except where I had not tightened up a Track Clamp at all! Here you can see where the wires have been soldered to a joiner and I have used the clamp screw to secure it in place. The second wire goes to the other end of this section.
6075604F-AE8C-4890-A17D-C015BA07DFD7.jpeg
Below you can see how I use trunking to keep the wires neat and in place. No under board wiring for me in this storage nightmare. Oh points at the East end have Electric Motors on and will be hand pushed across, the motors being used just to retain the orientation when pushed. I do not inted to make them working using power. At the West end hand levers are in place and the points will be trailed by deparing trains with typical Continental Right Hand running being the rule. I find that LGB hand switches are not that reliable for changing points hence my using them in this way. The picture below was before I swopped out the hand lever for an electric motor.
A89FAC5D-0B89-47D3-AB6E-75B214ECB8E2.jpeg
Having got both sections sorted and coupled up to the choc strips by the panel it was a quick job to run a wire to the panel from the relevant pots to the Massoth and voila power to two ends of the Shed and time for a quick test. I used my Steam Tram which is a mash of and LGB one with a Stainz Chassis for testing. Both ends work just fine so now it is down to attacking the Peco Track that will join the two ends being the actual Stations that will be scenic. This process will take a little longer as I have rail to cut and solder up bonding.

Below you can see the limited Testing being undertaken at the West end.
F777D924-DA4B-47CE-8325-6ED29099351A.jpeg 8F8B3AC8-4B24-4EFF-9C92-05D39CC4A722.jpeg
 

dunnyrail

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I finally managed to get the East Station all up and working on Thursday completing the track laying and bonding yesterday. Today I have managed to get the through track laid and bonded to the West Station through line only but cannot test it as yet as I need to back wire to the Panel and feeds. So a couple of pics of the East Station.

Looking North the Corpet is standing in what will be the Loco Shed Siding, to the right will be the Carriage Siding. Centre the through line to the Fiddle Yard at the North End.

06B4CF8B-A624-47FF-9829-7E6E2866F186.jpeg
Looking South the other way, Factory Siding with the Tank Wagon and Goods Road with the Green Corpet and 2 Vans. Through line to South Passing loop in the Centre.
991D15ED-4FB2-4F23-A8AC-187946AC90F0.jpeg
This Station’s Track Plan is an almost copy of my earlier 0 Gauge Exhibition Layout, the Factory being the only addition to that Station‘s plan. It proved a very interesting Station to operate so I thought it well worth a copy. Though the 0 Gauge was a Terminus, the through line may indeed be just used as a Siding to a Dockyard or Main Line Exchange where Coal gets unloaded and incoming Wagons get loaded. Time will tell on this, one thing for certain it will not be used as a Tail Chaser except for odd ocasions if something needs a good run.
 

Eaglecliff

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Going back to early mention of your chimneys, they urgently need metal liners if you haven’t already done so and are still going to be burning stuff. Life or death, that.
I had a 19’ X 12’ ‘0’ gauge loft layout for quite a while, but eventually moved outside because: 1) the roof, despite insulation, was too cold in winter, too warm in summer; 2) I felt it was a bit antisocial and decided to join the wife in the garden and 3) despite my best endeavours, I couldn’t stop myself getting dizzy from standing in the middle of the attic slowly rotating as I watched the trains going round ...
 

idlemarvel

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...one thing for certain it will not be used as a Tail Chaser except for odd occasions if something needs a good run.
You may think that now but once you have a loop resistance is futile...
 
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dunnyrail

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Going back to early mention of your chimneys, they urgently need metal liners if you haven’t already done so and are still going to be burning stuff. Life or death, that.
I had a 19’ X 12’ ‘0’ gauge loft layout for quite a while, but eventually moved outside because: 1) the roof, despite insulation, was too cold in winter, too warm in summer; 2) I felt it was a bit antisocial and decided to join the wife in the garden and 3) despite my best endeavours, I couldn’t stop myself getting dizzy from standing in the middle of the attic slowly rotating as I watched the trains going round ...
Do not use the other Fire Places have a log burner in my rear sitting room which is in a new part of the House and has had a new exit flue fitted when the log burner was put in.