Keeping cars on the track…what to look for??

Litninbolt

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I have several cars, box, tanks cars, etc, that just dont seem to stay on the track, some wont make one loop without derailing, yet other cars are fine…I just dont know what to look for…It’s not the same spot on the track. The cars, some of them are eBay purchases, (maybe why they are there for sale), but still should be able to fix. I dont run fast, and have tried slower stampedes, doesnt seem to matter… doesnt matter if straight, or on curves either. I can not identify the brand (SEE VIDEO FOR AN EXAMPLE). Is this just a cheap brand, (though the other same tanker runs fine). Love some tips, feedback….thanks Tank Car Video link
 

Greg Elmassian

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1. your track needs to be level across the rails... get a small "torpedo" level and check this.
2. your track cannot have non-smooth transitions up and down, like a roller coaster.
3. have you checked the gauge of your wheels? 1.575" back to back (inside to inside)
4. have you checked that the wheels are free rolling? push the car, does it roll a ways
5. do the trucks swivel easily?
6. are the cars too light? under 2 pounds will cause issues
7. what about couplers, are they binding? Are you using hook and loop? If so, do not double hook

Do all that and your trains will run fine.
 

Litninbolt

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1. your track needs to be level across the rails... get a small "torpedo" level and check this.
2. your track cannot have non-smooth transitions up and down, like a roller coaster.
3. have you checked the gauge of your wheels? 1.575" back to back (inside to inside)
4. have you checked that the wheels are free rolling? push the car, does it roll a ways
5. do the trucks swivel easily?
6. are the cars too light? under 2 pounds will cause issues
7. what about couplers, are they binding? Are you using hook and loop? If so, do not double hook

Do all that and your trains will run fine.
Thanks, Ihave some work to do this weekend…
Regarding the Double hooking, is that because its a bit too binding in some turns?….

Curious, it seems that a lot of trains/cars are sold minimally…by that I mean, no metal wheels, weight is too low (why sell them if their not sold at a good running weight), many dont have lights in the case of a passenger cars. Spending money a la carte, per car gets expensive im finding…. Are some brands of cars known to be better runners than others…
 

phils2um

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Regarding the Double hooking, is that because its a bit too binding in some turns?….
Yes, It can be an issue if the couplers are body mounted. I run double hooks without any problems. But, all my wagons, almost all LGB, have bogie or swiveling truck mounted couplers.
 

Paul M

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The vid doesn't seem to like my phone. As Greg says, check the track, is it fixed or floating? If its floating there may be a gap underneath a section of track causing it to move as the train goes across it. Putting some weight in the wagon is also good for running. As for the lack of finesse in some kit, it's as true in G Scale as anywhere else. You get what you pay for. Buying cheap is great, but usumeans you need to add your own refinements
 

phils2um

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I just looked at your video. The side frame on the truck you're fiddling with looks too tight. One side frame is usually somewhat loose which allows the wheels to equalize on uneven track. This makes up for the lack of a true suspension on our models and helps keep them on the rails.
 

JimmyB

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Curious, it seems that a lot of trains/cars are sold minimally…by that I mean, no metal wheels, weight is too low (why sell them if their not sold at a good running weight), many dont have lights in the case of a passenger cars. Spending money a la carte, per car gets expensive im finding…. Are some brands of cars known to be better runners than others…

Welcome to the foibles of model railways outside. Inside layouts are normally very level with well laid track, and for the smaller gauges the weight is normally better due to the size. G45 in the garden is a whole new ball game. However I think Greg Elmassian Greg Elmassian has captured the areas to investigate. If you have lots of "nearly right" e.g. track not quite level, and wheels out of gauge, each on their own may be okay but add them up and you have problems.
 

dunnyrail

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I have several cars, box, tanks cars, etc, that just dont seem to stay on the track, some wont make one loop without derailing, yet other cars are fine…I just dont know what to look for…It’s not the same spot on the track. The cars, some of them are eBay purchases, (maybe why they are there for sale), but still should be able to fix. I dont run fast, and have tried slower stampedes, doesnt seem to matter… doesnt matter if straight, or on curves either. I can not identify the brand (SEE VIDEO FOR AN EXAMPLE). Is this just a cheap brand, (though the other same tanker runs fine). Love some tips, feedback….thanks Tank Car Video link
Do as much of the tricks as you can that have been mentioned. But the one thing that concerns me is that washer between the bogie and the car. Not sure that will help, yes by all means have one of the bogies so that it does not flop around over much but the other more free to may help.

Could the car be a Bachmann one? Their plastic wheels are not too good and I have found them to be poor runners swopping them out for Backmann metal ones that may help.

Why not think of swopping out plastic wheels on just the cars that give you problems?
 

Rhinochugger

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One of the often forgotten aspects of smooth running is to check that the axles are not only lightly lubricated, but have a little sideways movement.
 

dunnyrail

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One of the often forgotten aspects of smooth running is to check that the axles are not only lightly lubricated, but have a little sideways movement.
Oh yes forgot lubrication plus a little on the bogie joints. LGB 50019 is the stuff in a sort of syringe, a tiny dot does the trick to all moving surfaces.
 

Rhinochugger

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I have several cars, box, tanks cars, etc, that just dont seem to stay on the track, some wont make one loop without derailing, yet other cars are fine…I just dont know what to look for…It’s not the same spot on the track. The cars, some of them are eBay purchases, (maybe why they are there for sale), but still should be able to fix. I dont run fast, and have tried slower stampedes, doesnt seem to matter… doesnt matter if straight, or on curves either. I can not identify the brand (SEE VIDEO FOR AN EXAMPLE). Is this just a cheap brand, (though the other same tanker runs fine). Love some tips, feedback….thanks Tank Car Video link
Ah, they look like Bachmann plastic wheels :punch::punch:

I would recommend you change them for Bachmann (or Lilliput - same thing) metal wheels or there may be an alternative source in the US.

Bachmann plastic wheels are notoriously incorrect gauge - the back-to-back is too small.

Also, metal wheel provide for extra low-down weight and stability.
 

playmofire

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Do as much of the tricks as you can that have been mentioned. But the one thing that concerns me is that washer between the bogie and the car. Not sure that will help, yes by all means have one of the bogies so that it does not flop around over much but the other more free to may help.

Could the car be a Bachmann one? Their plastic wheels are not too good and I have found them to be poor runners swopping them out for Backmann metal ones that may help.

Why not think of swopping out plastic wheels on just the cars that give you problems?
I, too, felt that washer was unusual and wondered, too, about the selection of screws on and around the bogie. I'm not familiar with Bachmann stock, but are they original? And at least one screw head has seen some hard treatment.
 

JimmyB

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I, too, felt that washer was unusual and wondered, too, about the selection of screws on and around the bogie. I'm not familiar with Bachmann stock, but are they original? And at least one screw head has seen some hard treatment.
The washer!!, I have found that the "slop" helps keep the bogie on the track especially when the track is uneven, however this works best with metal wheels as the weight in the bogie keeps the wheels down - hope this makes sense.
 

Rhinochugger

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OK, stepping over the dead bodies, that tank car has been seriously attended to - none of the screws are Bachmann originals, and the washer is an after market add-on.

The bogie is designed with forward and backward rocking motion, and the screw should be tightened to the point that there is also some sideways rocking motion. The original Bachmann screw will fit inside the pivot hole which will aid the rocking motion.

So, I think, swap the wheelsets for steel wheels with a correct back-to-back of 40.5 mm, replace the pivot screw with one which will drop inside the bogie pivot, and you wagon should stay on the track.

I would add that I have frequently stated on here that I am an expert in badly laid track - my track is probably worse than anybody else's, and that I model in 1:20.3 (USA Fn3) with predominantly finer flanges, and that I keep my stock on the track with very few derailments.
 

dunnyrail

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OK, stepping over the dead bodies, that tank car has been seriously attended to - none of the screws are Bachmann originals, and the washer is an after market add-on.

The bogie is designed with forward and backward rocking motion, and the screw should be tightened to the point that there is also some sideways rocking motion. The original Bachmann screw will fit inside the pivot hole which will aid the rocking motion.

So, I think, swap the wheelsets for steel wheels with a correct back-to-back of 40.5 mm, replace the pivot screw with one which will drop inside the bogie pivot, and you wagon should stay on the track.

I would add that I have frequently stated on here that I am an expert in badly laid track - my track is probably worse than anybody else's, and that I model in 1:20.3 (USA Fn3) with predominantly finer flanges, and that I keep my stock on the track with very few derailments.
Well said Rhino, yes I never watched the vid. As much as it goes against the grain I have to agree with Greg. I have some pretty bad track and rarely get derailments, those that do occur are generally forgotten point settings, rough shunts (by visitors), bits of trapped foliage and very very rarely fallen off coupling parts. So clearly what is wrong is the bogie fit as you say.
 

Rhinochugger

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I should have added that I don't model the higher speed, mainline operations that Greg models. In his setting, accurate track laying is much more important :nod::nod::nod:
 

Litninbolt

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Interesting “keep it on the track” development.. I bought a “Brand new in box” Bachman 98301 Flat car with closed trailer.. at a local train show yesterday….. it derailed on first curve…. i laid down beside it pushing it around to see what the heck is going on….see picture…..the truck does not clear the flat bed, it binds,holding it from conforming to the curve…. This a known thing with some brands, etc. I can probably Drexel out some clearance ? IMG_4698.jpeg