i need lots of track for my deadrail system

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
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I had an inkling..

So, a Garden Railroad on a budget?
If you insist the track should look like 'proper' track, then Bachmann might be more prolific, in the US?

Playmobil track is pretty widely available, solid, and a lot more UV resistant. It will also have a resale value in the future.

If you do use Bachmann, Newquida, etc.. Then give it a coat of rattle-can red primer, to protect it from the UV.
Your idea to print adapters / joiners is good.

Keep the track as level as you can.. The thickness of your finger, at one end of a 60cm (24 inch) spirit level, is as much of a gradient as you want.. Level ACROSS the track is also important.

You will be limited to tight radius curves, so stick with short loco's, and stock, unless the wagons and carriages have pivoting bogies (trucks).

Most of all,
Enjoy your trains!

PhilP
 

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
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St.Neots Cambridgeshire UK
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I had an inkling..

So, a Garden Railroad on a budget?
If you insist the track should look like 'proper' track, then Bachmann might be more prolific, in the US?

Playmobil track is pretty widely available, solid, and a lot more UV resistant. It will also have a resale value in the future.

If you do use Bachmann, Newquida, etc.. Then give it a coat of rattle-can red primer, to protect it from the UV.
Your idea to print adapters / joiners is good.

Keep the track as level as you can.. The thickness of your finger, at one end of a 60cm (24 inch) spirit level, is as much of a gradient as you want.. Level ACROSS the track is also important.

You will be limited to tight radius curves, so stick with short loco's, and stock, unless the wagons and carriages have pivoting bogies (trucks).

Most of all,
Enjoy your trains!

PhilP
Indeed so, and never forget the option of second hand track. So many options around if you look.
 

Greg Elmassian

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ouch, over 4%... you may need to rethink plastic track, it might be too slippery, especially in WA.

Aluminum would probably be best, as it oxidizes, it turns into aluminum oxide (sound familiar? sandpaper) ... great traction...

Greg
 

NorthwestGarrattGuy

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1 Oct 2021
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ouch, over 4%... you may need to rethink plastic track, it might be too slippery, especially in WA.

Aluminum would probably be best, as it oxidizes, it turns into aluminum oxide (sound familiar? sandpaper) ... great traction...

Greg
i was considering a racks section and i might be able to reduce it to 2.7% but thats why i need the straights
 

Greg Elmassian

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Rack is cool, but not cheap for the loco! My suggestion is continue to work on it to try to get the grade down. Also, try to avoid grades on curves, the curve "intensifies" the grade and associated issues.

Greg
 

NorthwestGarrattGuy

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Seattle, Washington
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Rack is cool, but not cheap for the loco! My suggestion is continue to work on it to try to get the grade down. Also, try to avoid grades on curves, the curve "intensifies" the grade and associated issues.

Greg
well the reason we need to climb a grade is because we need to get the track up from ground level up onto a raised section of yard which is about 1 to 2 feet above the rest of the yard
 

GAP

G Scale Trains, HO Trains, 1:1 Sugar Cane trains
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well the reason we need to climb a grade is because we need to get the track up from ground level up onto a raised section of yard which is about 1 to 2 feet above the rest of the yard
Do you have room for a circular loop aka a helix?
Minimum or larger radius that starts at ground level and reaches the upper level after crossing over itself.
It could have straight sections in the middle.
My layout rises about 450mm (16 inches) in about 9-10 metres (30 - 33 feet), forget that it is elevated and consider the lower level is on the ground.
 
Last edited:

Paul M

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25 Oct 2016
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Royston
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What are you using for the track base?
 

GAP

G Scale Trains, HO Trains, 1:1 Sugar Cane trains
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What are you using for the track base?
For the mainline layout fibre cement over a hardwood frame attached to a fence on 2 sides and "C" purlin steel posts on the other 2 sides.
For the sugar cane layout treated pine timber posts with hardwood supports and fibre cement in the "mill area" and galvanised cable tray 225mm wide supported on "C" purlin steel posts and treated pine fence paling pieces.
The whole thing is effectively 2 layouts with an interconnection line.
The history of it so far.