i need lots of track for my deadrail system

PhilP

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ECR?

East Coast Railway on EvilBay..

PhilP
 

Greg Elmassian

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nwgg; (abbreviation for NorthWestGarrattGuy)

Most of the people on this site are in the UK, so asking them to ship to Seattle means shipping will cost more than the track is worth.

You would be better served on MLS or LSC or USA ebay, etc.

Greg
 

NorthwestGarrattGuy

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nwgg; (abbreviation for NorthWestGarrattGuy)

Most of the people on this site are in the UK, so asking them to ship to Seattle means shipping will cost more than the track is worth.

You would be better served on MLS or LSC or USA ebay, etc.

Greg
Ah thanks OK that is good to know
 

Greg Elmassian

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NorthwestGarrattGuy

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Greg Elmassian

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pardon what seems like an interrogation, but get what to work? The deadrail system, or the track?

Lots of experience here on the forum, and many more people that "do it themselves" in my opinion and definitely a different view than what is "common wisdom" stateside, i.e. more options.

Greg
 

NorthwestGarrattGuy

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pardon what seems like an interrogation, but get what to work? The deadrail system, or the track?

Lots of experience here on the forum, and many more people that "do it themselves" in my opinion and definitely a different view than what is "common wisdom" stateside, i.e. more options.

Greg
the 3D printer we are still firguring out how to set up the software for it
 

PhilP

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Good luck with your printer.. I have resisted the urge, so far..
But a CO2 laser cutter, just might be on my letter to Santa!


I would think a 3D printed 'joining track' to connect the two makes of plastic track should be feasible?

Do pop back, and let us know, how you get on?

PhilP.
 

NorthwestGarrattGuy

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Good luck with your printer.. I have resisted the urge, so far..
But a CO2 laser cutter, just might be on my letter to Santa!


I would think a 3D printed 'joining track' to connect the two makes of plastic track should be feasible?

Do pop back, and let us know, how you get on?

PhilP.
yeah just have to aquire funding from my dad
 

GAP

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I have just bought an Creality Ender3 V2 and it was virtually plug and play straight out of the box (after a bit of assembly which was easy to do).
The most important thing to do is get the bed "level" and have a good slicer, Cura is a popular one for beginners like myself but I am using Creality Slicer which is based on Cura so they are similar.
There are plenty of videos on youtube about bed levelling.

A couple of place where you can get stl files for track prints.

I am printing LGB style bogies for my wagons at the moment but will be moving on to stone and brick walls for buildings.
The 3D section on this forum has a number of helpful people visiting.
 

NorthwestGarrattGuy

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I have just bought an Creality Ender3 V2 and it was virtually plug and play straight out of the box (after a bit of assembly which was easy to do).
The most important thing to do is get the bed "level" and have a good slicer, Cura is a popular one for beginners like myself but I am using Creality Slicer which is based on Cura so they are similar.
There are plenty of videos on youtube about bed levelling.

A couple of place where you can get stl files for track prints.

I am printing LGB style bogies for my wagons at the moment but will be moving on to stone and brick walls for buildings.
The 3D section on this forum has a number of helpful people visiting.
hmm does it work with voxelab printer's which i believe use PLA
 

GAP

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Looking at this yes it does

It even looks the same as my Ender 3 V2
 

phils2um

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I'm only going to hazard a wild guess - but its probably cheaper to buy track than to print it. I'll be happy to be proved wrong.
 

PhilP

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That may depend on availability, in your locale?

I still think something to allow for the joining of Newquida and Bachmann track, would be very useful?

The geometry of track, is also limited, in the commercial offerings..
A larger radius curve, would be advantageous.

PhilP
 

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Greg Elmassian

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I have bought the plastic track at swap meets for 50 cents per section, and the quality is superior to what you can print with a filament printer, and the plastic is tougher, and of course the railhead smoother.