Halfords Paints

[Rogersee]

I am building an steam loco from a kit & am about to paint the smoke box.

My first thought was to use U-Pol Etch primer, but looking on the Halfords site it did not recommend this for adhering to brass and recommend using "Hammerite special metals" primer.This primer is OK for the smokebox but it is quite thick and I think I would have problems using it on the main body

I bought "Halfords very high temperature" spray paint for the top coat and on the instruction it says do not use primer

Has anybody got experience of using these paints ? or advice on a suitable alternatves,

:thinking:

 

[The Devonian]

<p><font color="#9900cc"><font size="3"><font face="arial,helvetica,sans-serif">Whilst I have used Hammerite many times, in its various forms, I doubt its suitability for a lovely brass model. As you remark seems wrong. </font></font></font></p><p><font color="#9900cc"><font size="3"><font face="arial,helvetica,sans-serif">There are those who have achieved good paintwork on hand built models that post here so I am sure you will get good advice.
</font></font></font></p>

 

[johnsaintjim]

<p>I have used car high temperature matt black for Lawley's smoke box. However, that was onto the existing glossy black paint, which I rubbed down with some very fine wet and dry.</p><p>I have had little success with the aerosol spray etch primers on brass. If the high temperature paint says it needs no primer then that is what I would do.</p><p>Here is Lawley's smokebox. Click on the picture and it will take you to the Lawley page of the EMR's web site.</p><p> </p><p><a href="http://sites.google.com/site/evensford/locomotives/lawley-class-kestrel" target="_blank"><img alt="EMR Lawley class 'Kestrel'" src="http://sites.google.com/site/evensford/_/rsrc/1257181679065/locomotives/lawley-class-kestrel/IMG_8379%20copy%20%28Small%29.jpg" border="0" /></a></p><p>PS I have already repainted the smokebox twice. Kestrel works for her living and it can become a bit tatty and a bit oily after a while. If the smokebox is easily removable I would say it's worth an experiment which could be stripped off if necessary.</p>

 

[hornbeam]

On my Roundhouse locos, I've used standard Halfords paint on the smokeboxes without issue. On these locos the smokebox doesn't get much hotter than the boiler as the burner is so good. Even used Humbrol on them, again no problem.

 

[corgi]

johnsaintjim - 5/12/2009 9:04 AM

<p>I have used car high temperature matt black for Lawley's smoke box. However, that was onto the existing glossy black paint, which I rubbed down with some very fine wet and dry.</p><p>I have had little success with the aerosol spray etch primers on brass. If the high temperature paint says it needs no primer then that is what I would do.</p><p>Here is Lawley's smokebox. Click on the picture and it will take you to the Lawley page of the EMR's web site.</p><p> </p><p><a href="http://sites.google.com/site/evensford/locomotives/lawley-class-kestrel" target="_blank"><img alt="EMR Lawley class 'Kestrel'" src="http://sites.google.com/site/evensford/_/rsrc/1257181679065/locomotives/lawley-class-kestrel/IMG_8379%20copy%20%28Small%29.jpg" border="0" /></a></p><p>PS I have already repainted the smokebox twice. Kestrel works for her living and it can become a bit tatty and a bit oily after a while. If the smokebox is easily removable I would say it's worth an experiment which could be stripped off if necessary.</p>

Graham, fantastic pics. But putting in a two bobs worth on a Lady ann I picked up once and had to do a complete rebuild I stripped the smokebox by putting it in an empty fruit tin with general purpose thinners. It came off easily with no mess, just an application with a stiff brush (not one that the bristles will react to the thinners).
I then without priming painted with Pot Belly black (I think you call it woodburner black. I used an aerosole can and applied two coats with a minimum of 24 hours between coats. Dont get impatient it wont work.
Leave for two to three days before handling as unless cooked needs the time to go off.

I used the same paint on my Accucraft Lyn with the exception that I painted the smokebox in situ.
It was that silvery yankee colour originally and had burnt oil on it.
I degreased it in the laundry trough ( I do not have a partner to answer to, sometimes wish I did).
I then masked the smokebox from the rest of the loco and sprayed the Pot Belly black on leaving 24 hours between coats.

I have not had any problems with the paint jobs.

 

[johnsaintjim]

Thanks guys and yes I agree with various comments. I was a bit rushed last night as me lappy's battery was about to give up.

The handrails on the smokebox were first painted with Tamiya acrylic because that was what came to hand. No probs due to the heat.

All I was really trying to say is that most things will work. I use Gunk to degrease and that is fine. In the end, abrasion will wear off the paint, so will shutting the smokebox with the firelighter when it's lit to stop burning me fingers (naughty naughty) so that is why I repainted. I also decided that the brass handrails were a bit garish so wanted to repaint anyway.

If I wanted to start from a plain brass smokebox, I would degrease, rub down, prime with grey car primer and then spray with whatever matt black came to hand, the more matt the better. If the high temperature paint says it doesn't need a primer, then I would probably still go for that, making sure the brass has a very good key by using some not so fine wet and dry, probably 120 or so.

Above all, please post some piccies of any experiences...

 

[corgi]

Here are some piccies of smokebox paint jobs.

The first is a Lady Ann painted in isolation.

The second shows Lyn (aka 8A) masked up to paint the smokebox.
A lot easier than pulling the loco to bits.

 

[Rogersee]

Hi all,

I have been modeling [cars boats planes and trains ] for more years than i would like to admit to. From my knowledge and guidance for others when painting Brass, Aluminum and mild steel etc always put a light coat of etch on surface prior to primer/filler primer and top coats. The etch coat needs to be light to enable chemical reaction to take place which enables paint to bite into metal. When using some of these special high temperature paints if label says do not use primers then that is what you must do since the chemical reaction of the paint will include self etch characteristics. Bilt Hammer etch primer was tested by Practical Classics magazine & came top for performance & this is what i use on all my projects. [ 450 + grit scuff of surface, de-greaser, etch, prime, flat back with worn 450 grit/paper & then top coats. The most important thing is not to touch metalwork with fingers prior to painting since grease/acid in skin will not help adhesion of paint.

Some of the 5" gauge guys use halfords high temperature paints as they are a good product & value for money.

A Friend uses high temperate tins of paint on 'Matt black' on his kit car exhausts and says that has been the only paint to stay on his mild steel exhausts for over a year without coming off. I have seen these exhausts [brushed] and they look great.

Hope the above of use.

Karl

Thanks for the advice can you only buy Bilt Hamber etch primer directly from the manufacture or is it some thing I might find in a local car accessory shop ?