Open wagons from homemade resin castings

ge_rik

British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
24 Oct 2009
10,702
1,244
Cheshire
www.riksrailway.blogspot.com
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Rik

The late Toshi Yoshioka had a site where he posted resin casting info (got this from a link on Gregh's Sandstone and Termite) he used to blow air across his molds as he poured the resin to get rid of bubbles.
A very talented modeler.

http://yoshiokasyd.web.fc2.com/Tech_Tips2/Resin_Cast/index.htm
Useful. Avoiding bubbles in the resin is a problem. I used to jiggle the moulds to try and get the bubbles to float up to the surface, but this didn't always work.
Rik
 

Zerogee

Clencher's Bogleman
25 Oct 2009
17,354
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North Essex
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Useful. Avoiding bubbles in the resin is a problem. I used to jiggle the moulds to try and get the bubbles to float up to the surface, but this didn't always work.
Rik

Never come across the air-blowing idea before.... I used to cast a lot of resin (mainly filled polyester rather than urethane) as part of my wargame model business, but gave the resin side up a few years ago to concentrate 100% on the metal side of things - much faster and easier; resin is a messy, slow and unpleasant business.
In my experience there are three basic ways of removing bubbles - vacuum, vibration and poking! Last first, if you are casting in a transluscent resin and you can easily see the parts of the mould where air gets trapped, just prod around in the poured resin with a length of wire and you'll get a lot of the worst bubbles out. This is the easiest and least equipment-heavy method for small amounts of home casting.
Vibration can be used, with the filled mould placed on a shaker plate, but the most effective is vacuum - for which of course you need a vacuum chamber and pump. Some manufacturers do the reverse, and use pressure rather than vacuum to force the resin into every nook and cranny of the mould, but this generally needs bigger and more expensive equipment.
My method of choice for small to medium production runs was a vacuum chamber, with the resin vacc'd twice - once after mixing the filler into a bucket of resin, to draw out all the air that you've trapped in the mixing process, and then once again with the filled moulds to get rid of any bubbles trapped in fine detail.

Jon.
 

stockers

Trains, aircraft, models, walking, beer, travel
24 Oct 2009
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Nr. Ashford, Kent. England.
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Never had much trouble with bubbles using polyurethanes. My mix was the consistency of milk and any bubbles just floated to the surface were they usually popped or could be encouraged with any old object.
 

Capt. Jack

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12 Mar 2017
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Florida
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